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  #21  
Old 07-15-2012, 08:59 AM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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For what it is worth, this oil cooler seems to have large capacity, positive airflow, and does a good job. Might be an acceptable alternative to the factory job.[IMG][/IMG]
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  #22  
Old 07-15-2012, 10:38 AM
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Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
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For those of us with flying 12's I wonder if a different muffler would work. I experimented with heat shields 2 years ago with some success so I believe the close muffler has an effect on oil cooling. Titian Tornado has a muffler for the Rotax that is the size of a soup can. A new exhaust system would be a couple grand I would guess, but it would sure answer the question.
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  #23  
Old 07-15-2012, 11:26 AM
Dave12 Dave12 is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geico266 View Post
For those of us with flying 12's I wonder if a different muffler would work. I experimented with heat shields 2 years ago with some success so I believe the close muffler has an effect on oil cooling. Titian Tornado has a muffler for the Rotax that is the size of a soup can. A new exhaust system would be a couple grand I would guess, but it would sure answer the question.
On this note, I considered modifying the rotax muffler prior to making the decision to modify the cowl duct, but it was just not prudent. I did price a new muffler just in case the modification was not successful and it was around $800.00. The cowl duct modification took only a few hours and the cost was about $20 bucks. BTW, I do have the written procedure and some diagrams of the mod. if anyone is interested, PM me your email address and I will be glad to send it. My temps are now in the green 99% of the time now. It was a big relief to me to see that this solved my problem.
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Last edited by Dave12 : 07-15-2012 at 11:34 AM.
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  #24  
Old 07-15-2012, 07:48 PM
RV12Roger RV12Roger is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Aguanga, Ca
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Default Any comment re this?

This comment came from a Rotax Repair Center.

Also wrap the muffler?

http://www.matronics.com/archive/arc....digest.vol-ar

Thermo-Tech is very common. You can pick header wrap up at places like Checker
auto, Auto Zone or Pep Boys. You need to get the 2" wide wrap and it is sold in
a 50' length. For the standard Rotax exhaust tube that is about 15" long you
need to cut a 68" piece. Dampen it. Don't soak it. It takes very little water
to moisten this stuff. You will need a hose clamp at the top and one for the
bottom. Start at the top or exhaust port and wrap 2 spiral turns then put the
first clamp on. Then spiral wrap all the way down. Only over wrap each edge by
about 3/8"- 1/2" and no more. If you over wrap too much it hold in too much
heat. When you get to the springs just go under them and wrap around the exhaust
knuckle. This will help with any exhaust blow-by. Do not over wrap the springs.
The springs need the cooler air. Once this is done apply the other clamp.
That's it, just do the other three like that.
If you have an EGT probe, do not wrap around this. The material in the cloth warp
interferes with the readings. It will make your EGT's swing 100F. Wrap up to
about 1/4" before the probe and add a clamp then start 1/4" past the EGT probe,
add a clamp and then on down. When your done let the engine run for 10 minutes
or so.

p.s.
When you start the engine for the first time it will smoke a little and smell like
it's burning. That will go away after about 10 minutes and the wrap will burn
and seat in place. It might give a faint burnt smell the first time out after
you shut the engine down. That's normal and don't worry. Once this has been
run a few times the wrap will be fragile so don't try and take it off and think
you can reuse it. If you scrape it hard with a tool it could abrade.

--------
Submitted by:-----
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
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  #25  
Old 08-02-2012, 12:20 PM
yankee-flyer yankee-flyer is offline
 
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Location: Dayton, OH
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Unhappy No clearance

Pulled the cowling to replace (hopefully) a bad EGT probe and like Marty, I can't get my little finger between the muffler and the radiator. Oil temp in the yellow arc by 3500 feet, 240's by 4500, and then drops back to 225-230 at 4500'+ cruise. Cruise at 3500' (Young Eagle flights) keeps temps in middle of the yellow arc. I think it's time for the cowling mod.

Wayne 120241/143WM
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  #26  
Old 08-02-2012, 04:32 PM
Dave12 Dave12 is online now
 
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I flew the -12 to Pottstown, Pa. today and it was hot. Surface temps in the 90's. The oil temp never went out of the green. Before the mod, I would have probably stayed on the ground.
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Currently restoring a 1978 Citabria GCBC
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  #27  
Old 08-02-2012, 10:10 PM
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Jetguy Jetguy is offline
 
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Location: Texas, Fort Worth
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Default Oil Cooler Mod!

Dave lets see some pictures of your Mod?
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  #28  
Old 08-03-2012, 05:55 AM
Dave12 Dave12 is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetguy View Post
Dave lets see some pictures of your Mod?
John, I sent you a pm.
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Wag Aero Sport Trainer built,sold and wrecked
N588DF RV12 #336 built, sold and alive and well in New York
N73DF RV12 #244 built, sold and alive and well in Florida
N91 RV RV9 I wish I could say I built this one! Mark Santoleri hit the ball out of the park on this gem.
Currently restoring a 1978 Citabria GCBC
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  #29  
Old 08-03-2012, 06:57 AM
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Dvalcik Dvalcik is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetguy View Post
Dave lets see some pictures of your Mod?
John

You can see the mods in person in a few weeks, he is only a short hop to KPTW. Dave flew over to help me with the final push to the DAR. I helps having a fellow RV12 builder looking over things.
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  #30  
Old 08-03-2012, 10:01 AM
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MacPara MacPara is offline
 
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Is there a way you could post these pictures? I am currently working on fitting the cowl and am about to install the oil cooler. If there's something I can do now to avoid high opil temps, I'd rather do it right away while it's easier to get at things....
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