Should I rebuild my rudder?

[jlott]

This is probably not quite as bad as I think.. but I'm looking for some advice.

http://www.n251rv.com/2012/06/15/to-...ot-to-rebuild/

I appreciate any feedback from you builders out there

[paul330]

I'd say do it again - the tail parts are cheap, especially when you look at the big scheme of things. I did my VS spar 3 times.......

It's a learning exercise. Have you done the toolbox and/or practice aileron? Maybe consider doing a sheet metal course. Read the plans carefully and take your time. Above all - relax! It gets easier - promise

[aarvig]

I don't see anything there that is a game ender. I would consult Vans on the trailing edge though. I had a similar problem and they said to build on. The rudder is difficult as there are lots of tight places. I guess I would continue building the plane and sit on it for awhile. You will find that you will make many mistakes that are mostly cosmetic but are entirely airworthy. If you seek to make them all perfect you will have a very expensive aircraft. Perfection is the enemy of progress and your wallet. I would email the photos to Vans. I suspect they will tell you to build on. The pop rivets in the horn are just fine by the way. That is an alternate call out on the plans.
Good luck!

[N427EF]

Apart from the trailing edge gap, I don't see a reason to redo the rudder.
The trailing edge is a bit of an eye sore and carefully drilling out the rivets and re gluing might save the day. Next time around glue it, cleco all of it, let it set and then rivet.
The problem is that when you get to the fuselage and you will have become quite an expert at aluminum and rivet work, you will not like your rudder anymore. So, you might build on and save that piece for later when you have acquired some more skills and decide whether to rebuild then.
You will also have to decide if you are going to build an Oshkosh winner or just a safe airplane.

[Captain Avgas]

Originally Posted by jlott

This is probably not quite as bad as I think.. but I'm looking for some advice.

I appreciate any feedback from you builders out there

Justin, the answers you receive will be nothing more than a reflection of the quality of the workmanship of those who comment. Builders who have an innate desire to pursue quality will tell you to redo that rudder. Builders who adopt the philosophy that "close enough is good enough" will tell you to "build on".

Personally, I think the empennage sets the benchmark for the entire aircraft. If you accept poor workmanship in the empennage you are setting the bar low for the entire project.

The aircraft will cost roughly the same whether you apply good standards of workmanship or poor standards of workmanship. Either way I can assure you that it will be a very expensive investment in the end. Building to the best of your abilities will help to protect that substantial investment.

So I guess the answer to your question is another question. Is that rudder to the best of your abilities? And the very fact that you are asking the question probably answers the question.

[jlott]

Hey thanks for the feedback everyone

Considering how pleased I am with the build quality of the HS and VS, and the fact that the rudder parts will currently only run me about $350, I am probably just going to rebuild it.

Yes this rudder would probably fly fine for years but it bothers me. I am an unapologetic perfectionist though.. in the end it will have just cost me a bit of money, some time, and some pride.

Have fun out there!

[aarvig]

Originally Posted by jlott

I am an unapologetic perfectionist though

Then there is your answer.
Good luck on the second rudder.

[robertahegy]

Good decision on rebuilding. I agree with AvGas. Don't settle for substandard work. I would suggest investing in a longeron yoke. It will be helpful in setting many hard to get rivets down by the rudder horn, and many other places. A no hole yoke is also helpful. I have used heavy chisels and the gun to set some hard to reach rivets. Using the flat edge of a chisel works well as a bucking bar. Sometimes it is necessary to open up the structure by slightly flexing the parts out enough to provide access, yet not bend or crease the parts. While sometimes necessary, using too many pulled rivets just doesn't lend itself to good workmanship.

Roberta

[drycreek]

When you rebuild, be sure to use the correct bolts to attach the counterweight. They should have flush heads so they clear the VS.

Good luck on #2.

[jlott]

Originally Posted by robertahegy

I would suggest investing in a longeron yoke. It will be helpful in setting many hard to get rivets down by the rudder horn, and many other places. A no hole yoke is also helpful.

Indeed. I do actually have both those yokes already. Good advice

Originally Posted by robertahegy

While sometimes necessary, using too many pulled rivets just doesn't lend itself to good workmanship.

I always avoid blind rivets if at all possible. In this particular case on my rudder I had kind of given up at that point. I half intended to rebuild it anyway so I really didnt care.

I'm not entirely sure why the build quality of this rudder doesn't match the standard I set with the HS and VS but I intend for rudder #2 to be much better

Thanks!