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  #41  
Old 06-13-2012, 11:13 AM
jim miller jim miller is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
Posts: 197
Default

With luck here is the photo of my recently completed jack.

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  #42  
Old 06-13-2012, 11:19 AM
jim miller jim miller is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
Posts: 197
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jim miller View Post
With luck here is the photo of my recently completed jack.


I was worried that it would be too tall for the RV3 but it was not. I just
nudged the wing up with shoulder and it slid into the receptacle. The base
is 18" of 3 inch c-channel and the rest is 1 3/8 sq tube. The muffler clamps
are threaded thru 1/2 holes and required no welding. If more base support
is needed the 12 1/2 bottom legs are hollow and a smaller rod or tube could
be slid in to make them much longer, then removed for storage.
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  #43  
Old 07-23-2012, 06:54 AM
jim miller jim miller is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
Posts: 197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim miller View Post
I was worried that it would be too tall for the RV3 but it was not. I just
nudged the wing up with shoulder and it slid into the receptacle. The base
is 18" of 3 inch c-channel and the rest is 1 3/8 sq tube. The muffler clamps
are threaded thru 1/2 holes and required no welding. If more base support
is needed the 12 1/2 bottom legs are hollow and a smaller rod or tube could
be slid in to make them much longer, then removed for storage.



I just used my recently constructed jack for the first time to re-pack wheel
bearings. It worked great without any movement. I happened to have the
channel and square tubing as scrap but some 1/8" thick angle would work
just as well.

Jim Miller
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  #44  
Old 08-08-2012, 06:54 PM
gtmule gtmule is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000 View Post
This is probably a dumb question, but although I know jacking at the tie down point is common, is the tie down point strong enough to hold +/- 500# of plane all in that one point on regular basis? Usually it's one bolt on the jack going into the tapped extruded aluminum tie down bracket which, in turn is attached to the spar with nothing more than 4 AN3 bolts. Seems like a failure either in the treads, bolt, tie down bracket, and/or spar would be quite problematic. Just curious.
Nothing more than 4 AN3 bolts? The bolts (not necessarily the joint) should be good for almost 2000lb in single shear.....each...
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RV-7, Niner Fife Victor
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  #45  
Old 08-11-2012, 09:12 AM
jim miller jim miller is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
Posts: 197
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That's a good question -I just use my jack to barely get one main off the
ground to remove wheel for greasing bearings and later to work on brakes
and tires. Hopefully it won't be a problem.

Jim Miller
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  #46  
Old 08-23-2012, 08:26 PM
MauleDriver's Avatar
MauleDriver MauleDriver is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lake Ridge Aero Park - Durham NC
Posts: 199
Default Another stand... Same design, just more data

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...g=154391&row=2
Thanks to everyone who posts.
I only have one. Don't see need for two... Yet.
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  #47  
Old 08-23-2012, 09:53 PM
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Greg Arehart Greg Arehart is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,391
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MauleDriver,

You should consider whether the carriage bolt in a depression on the top of that jack is safe and not prone to potentially slipping off (hard to see how deep the depression is in your photo). It would be easy to put the jack through the bottom of your wing if the wing slipped off and that would upset you. I certainly notice significant side load on my jack when jacking my airplane (but it is a taildragger, thus different angle from the 10).

Just my two cents,
Greg
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RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A

Last edited by rv6rick : 08-23-2012 at 09:56 PM. Reason: removed expletive
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  #48  
Old 01-29-2013, 01:29 PM
RichE7A RichE7A is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Saint Peters, Missouri
Posts: 26
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Bought 2 jacks at Harbor Freight yesterday. On sale 39.99 each.
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  #49  
Old 02-18-2013, 02:21 AM
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beav beav is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 164
Default My Jacks

I built a set of jacks this week. The bases are 4" channel with 1"x1.5" rectangular tubing for the diagonals. The jack fits through a piece of 3" ID tubing at the top with a hole drilled and tapped for a bolt that takes up any play between the jack and the tubing. One of my first projects with the MIG welder and they turned out pretty nice.

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  #50  
Old 02-18-2013, 03:20 AM
Kreeve Kreeve is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Peachland
Posts: 15
Default

Hey guys, Liked the thread, but my mind was saying there has to be a better Idea to secure the jacks to the wing, Please remember I have not started building yet, so this is an outsiders idea feel free to shoot it down at will.

The jacks come with a what 1/2 inch hole already drilled thrue? why not extend the Pipe cap 1.5 inches farther down, just thread a pipe in and cut it 1.5 inches down, one spot weld so it wont twist off, and drill a set of 3/8th or 1/2 inch holes thrue the pipe, maybe 2 sets 90 degree's apart, and use a good steel pin / trailer hitch lock pin to go between the pipe and the jack holes, the extra pipe would help lock it onto the jack, and the pin is extra security there is no way that sucker would come off.

Other Idea is a spin off of the first, get a short steel box tube, weld 2 brackets on the bottom side just far enough apart to fit over the jack, drill those and again use the Hitch pin to secure it, and in the center of the box tube use your 3/8th inch all thread or grade 8 pan head bolt to thread into the wing tie down, the design would lock onto the Jacks, provide the Pivot to match the wing angle of either a nose or tail dragger, and would not seperate from the jacks.

I dunno just thoughts going thrue my head on a better mouse trap. again, ignore me if ya think I am nuts.
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