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  #11  
Old 06-04-2012, 11:41 PM
ron sterba ron sterba is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
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Well gentlemen----------------Ideas afloating! love all your pictures. I see what you mean about laying it all out first. Great idea on the nutplates under the ribs and sub panel. THATS A GO! I like the sounds of locations for the back up battery. I forgot about that one frankly. I now know where to penetrate the firewall. Thats good! Like the switch layouts. OH guys I believe the larger panel is 2" deeper and you cut the the height to fit. On that note of the panel, my buddies have said that getting in and bending the knees to fit under the panel (if you are a tall guy) is a little more difficult.. You all have made this a great discussion and keep it up. Lots of the builders are watching so thats cool. I'll be back on tommorrow night to check. Thanks guys.

Ron in Oregon 9A
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  #12  
Old 06-05-2012, 12:54 AM
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BSwayze BSwayze is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buggsy2 View Post
how do you do that?
It's pretty simple, really. The F-745 rib, or ribs, are simply cut off flush at the sub-panel. The aft ends are moved left or right and re-mounted on the sub-panel wherever you wish, using some homemade angle brackets. I've already cut my left one off, anticipating a 10" screen right in front of my face.
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  #13  
Old 06-05-2012, 07:41 AM
burtj burtj is offline
 
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https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B...-22-41_818.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...-19-16_198.jpg

Here's a shot of my finished panel and subpanel. I moved one rib on the subpanel. It all fits fine in the standard panel with room for the row of switches below. The transponder unit is under the right seat directly above the transponder antenna. If the photo links don't work, it's my first attempt. Let me know.
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  #14  
Old 06-05-2012, 08:28 AM
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Buggsy2 Buggsy2 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtj View Post
If the photo links don't work, it's my first attempt. Let me know.
They link but they're pretty small. Got larger ones?
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  #15  
Old 06-05-2012, 08:43 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron sterba View Post
Well gentlemen----------------Ideas afloating! love all your pictures. I see what you mean about laying it all out first. Great idea on the nutplates under the ribs and sub panel. THATS A GO! I like the sounds of locations for the back up battery. I forgot about that one frankly. I now know where to penetrate the firewall. Thats good! Like the switch layouts. OH guys I believe the larger panel is 2" deeper and you cut the the height to fit. On that note of the panel, my buddies have said that getting in and bending the knees to fit under the panel (if you are a tall guy) is a little more difficult.. You all have made this a great discussion and keep it up. Lots of the builders are watching so thats cool. I'll be back on tommorrow night to check. Thanks guys.

Ron in Oregon 9A
The nutplates on the ribs can also be used to attach cross angles for mounting "stuff" on. Screws inserted from below, of course...

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  #16  
Old 06-05-2012, 11:05 PM
ron sterba ron sterba is offline
 
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Location: salem Oregon
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Chip and Richard, Where did you get your switches from? Nice panels. Gil nice wiring job. Neat. Someday I'll learn to tie!. Hey got a answer to the stainless screws in the wing tips. You heard it first here. I took a AN507-6R6 screw to the Buffing wheel a WA-LA a polished bright head looking like chrome. The answer to the corrosion gossip with stainless steal screws. Cheaper too!
Ron in Oregon 9A
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  #17  
Old 06-06-2012, 07:24 AM
RFazio RFazio is offline
 
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Location: LI, NY
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Default Got my switches here.

I got my switches here http://www.wiringproducts.com/conten..._switches.html
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  #18  
Old 06-06-2012, 11:50 AM
chipf chipf is offline
 
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I bought the switches from B&C. They have small color plastic covers to give them a more organized look, I think these also came from B&C. Most of the rest was purchased from SteinAir, including the switch guards and all the wiring bits.
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  #19  
Old 06-06-2012, 09:57 PM
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Buggsy2 Buggsy2 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSwayze View Post
It's pretty simple, really. The F-745 rib, or ribs, are simply cut off flush at the sub-panel. The aft ends are moved left or right and re-mounted on the sub-panel wherever you wish, using some homemade angle brackets. I've already cut my left one off, anticipating a 10" screen right in front of my face.
whoa...I printed a full-scale image (actually a few % bigger) of my proposed panel (using XPanel) and put it on the Vans instrument panel:



Notice the two clecos right through the 10" Dynon Skyview. So I'm going to move the left F-745 for sure. But that will leave a largish gap between the two, so I'll add another brace more-or-less in the middle.

NB. Yeah, the vents are in the wrong place. And the iPad will really be RAM-mounted so I'm not worried about that F-745 rib. I'm using a VP-200 for the electrical. And at the moment I'm planning on two pairs of throttle/mixture.
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Last edited by Buggsy2 : 06-06-2012 at 09:59 PM.
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  #20  
Old 06-06-2012, 10:54 PM
ron sterba ron sterba is offline
 
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Location: salem Oregon
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Gil Im liking that you put a couple of angle brackets underneath with nutplates. Im thinking of feeding on the idea by putting a hinge and a plate and have it drop down with one of those modules on the plate. I going to make my wiring neat like yours. It just doesn't get prettier then that, Great job Gil. Thanks for the inspiration my friend.

Thanks guys for the websites on the switches. I like them. I wondering if the the LEDs are dimable?

Stainless screws. Got a NEW IDEA here. AN507 6R6 screw I put to my buffing wheel (just the face) and WA LA. Chrome looking face but still the coated screw into Aluminum and nutplate for the threads. I have to put some out in the rain for a while to see how they do.

Ron in Oregon 9A

Last edited by ron sterba : 06-28-2012 at 12:46 AM.
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