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07-20-2010, 08:22 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,653
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Yet another baffle cracking
I mentioned in the thread about my bad landing and the subsequent repairs that I had discovered extensive cracking around the oil cooler mount on the left rear baffle. Since it seems somewhat sideways to the other thread, I'm creating this thread and offering this link to my site page discussing the problem and what I did about it. Enjoy. Baffle reinforcing page.
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Patrick Kelley - Flagstaff, AZ
RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
http://www.mykitlog.com/flion/
EAA Technical Counselor #5357
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07-20-2010, 10:57 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 2,182
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We're in the middle of swapping out the 7-row 20002A oil cooler for a 13-row 20006A on the RV-8 and fabricating a framework around the baffle opening using 1/8" thick angle and 1/8" thick aluminum strips for reinforcement to prevent cracking. This may be overkill thickness, but the new oil cooler will weight almost a full pound more than the original one and I want it to be solid and durable. I've extended the inboard angle strip all the way up to the top of the rear baffle and will use a long bolt thru the entire thickness at the top, including a spacer across the "box" gap at the top, for attaching a cross-brace to go from that point on the rear baffle over to the engine case for extra support.
Your idea of making the bolt spacer tubes a wee bit shorter to incorporate washers on the insides of the oil cooler flanges to spread the load there sounds like a very good one, I think I'll do that too while I've got everything apart.
And yep, we know the 13-row cooler is a bit too wide for a baffle mount and two or three rows will be covered up, but it'll still leave 10 or 11 rows open to airflow which should be a big help towards reducing the oil temps over the little 7-row cooler, and we already have the 13-row cooler on hand, otherwise we probably would've bought the SW 10599 cooler instead.
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Neal Howard
Airplaneless once again...
Last edited by Neal@F14 : 07-20-2010 at 11:07 PM.
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07-21-2010, 08:46 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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It is a good idea to support the flange area for clamping.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neal@F14
Your idea of making the bolt spacer tubes a wee bit shorter to incorporate washers on the insides of the oil cooler flanges to spread the load there sounds like a very good one, I think I'll do that too while I've got everything apart.
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I went one step further and put in a piece of angle running between the bolts on the oil cooler flange, one on each side, kind of like a washer. It spreads out the clamping force across the flange even better than washers. Cheap and easy to do.
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Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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05-30-2012, 07:31 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,653
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Just wanted to update this thread as I have just finished my condition inspection. It's been a couple of years but only 60 hours or so (I haven't gotten to fly as much as I'd like due to finishing up my degree and starting my Masters). But there is absolutely zero evidence of cracking now, so it looks like the modifications I made are doing the trick.
__________________
Patrick Kelley - Flagstaff, AZ
RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
http://www.mykitlog.com/flion/
EAA Technical Counselor #5357
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05-30-2012, 06:48 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 256
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Thanks for this update
Starting very soon on this myself. Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by flion
Just wanted to update this thread as I have just finished my condition inspection. It's been a couple of years but only 60 hours or so (I haven't gotten to fly as much as I'd like due to finishing up my degree and starting my Masters). But there is absolutely zero evidence of cracking now, so it looks like the modifications I made are doing the trick.
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Roger Whittier
RV7A Quick Build, Tip Up
N1MY Reserved - Canopy finished - Wings mated, Engine hung, electrical 95%
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05-30-2012, 08:34 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Another alternative to washers - from a certified istallation -
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...5&postcount=22
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Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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05-30-2012, 09:16 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: East Texas
Posts: 192
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Hey Jon
Do you have any pictures of the way you installed the angle? I'm about the install a 8432R and am interested in your configuration.
Thanks
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Marc Hudson
Houston
RV-7 Sold
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05-31-2012, 09:30 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marchudson
Hey Jon
Do you have any pictures of the way you installed the angle? I'm about the install a 8432R and am interested in your configuration.
Thanks
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I will try to get a pic today. Essentially, you just use the angle in place of the washers. I think it is a bit of an overkill but this, along with bracing and beefing up the corner of the baffle, 500 hours, no cracks.
__________________
Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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