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  #1  
Old 05-25-2012, 01:43 PM
Planedude Planedude is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Default elevator rigging

I am a new owner of recently purchased RV7A. We are conducting an import inspection for registration in Canada. In doing the inspection we have found that the centre push rod for the elevator control was not properly secured allowing it to rotate and unscrew from the rod end. In further inspection we found that the stick hits the panel and I cannot determine where the control stops are located. The elevator deflection is not correct (23 degrees down and 27 degrees up). Can anyone provide copies of the rigging instructions for the airplane? I have the drawings but they don't have the information on the process for rigging that I am looking for.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2012, 04:59 PM
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The control stops are part of the aft deck doublers where the elevator contol horn penetrates it (the horn contacts the stops). Don't remember there being a "rig procedure" per se, the stick should be approximately vertical when the elevator is in the neutral position.
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  #3  
Old 05-25-2012, 07:23 PM
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LifeofReiley LifeofReiley is offline
 
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The measurements (lengths) of the elevator push tubes are in the plans and are good to work with. Make sure you have jam nuts in place as required and that the rod ends are straight.
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Last edited by LifeofReiley : 05-25-2012 at 07:25 PM.
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2012, 06:53 AM
WingsOnWheels WingsOnWheels is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt View Post
The control stops are part of the aft deck doublers where the elevator contol horn penetrates it (the horn contacts the stops). Don't remember there being a "rig procedure" per se, the stick should be approximately vertical when the elevator is in the neutral position.
Just to add the what Walt said, when the elevator is in trail (neutral), the elevator bellcrank should be vertical. Adjust the rod-ends on the aft elevator pushrod to set the bellcrank vertical. The move on to the forward pushrod to set the angle of the stick. Generally the sticks have a slight forward cant when the elevator in neutral. However, the important point is that the elevator hit its stops before the stick hits the spar or the front rod-end binds in th yoke of the control stick. You can adjust the stick to your liking as long as you get full travel.
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2012, 08:42 AM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
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Default Control stick position at neutral ...

.... is NOT vertical as stated above. I called Vans when I was rigging my elevators ....they said the stick should be 5 degrees forward at the neutral point. You see when you get to making length adjustments on the center p-rod that vertical will cause problems with the other clearances. As soon as you aim for 5 degrees fwd, it all lines up nicely.
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2012, 03:04 PM
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tomwebster tomwebster is offline
 
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I made the same call to Vans while building my 7.
Their answer:
Vertical elevator bell crank, streamlined elevator and
front control rod ends threaded in slightly more then half.
This put the stick slightly forward of vertical.
I didn't hear of a measurement in degrees.

It was shown on the plans once I knew to look for it.

Tom
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  #7  
Old 05-27-2012, 07:57 AM
Planedude Planedude is offline
 
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Default RV7A elevator rigging

Thanks for you suggestions and advice. Just spent an afternoon sorting this out. My 6ft 7 inch AME had a fun time crawling around the cockpit making the adjustments!!!
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  #8  
Old 05-27-2012, 08:11 AM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Again, just to reinforce, there are two separate steps here. One is the BIG pushrod, whose length and rod-end bearings are adjusted so when the elevator is clamped in its neutral position, the bellcrank is vertical.

The other is the smaller pushrod which connects to your control sticks and is adjusted so that the stick is slightly forward as people indicated.

Also, make sure that shorter, thinner pushrod is not hitting the top of the pass through of the 705 bulkhead (the one just behind the seats). If someone didn't properly secure a rod end bearing on an elevator pushrod, there's a pretty good chance he/she/it wasn't particularly committed to this pushrod either.
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  #9  
Old 05-28-2012, 12:27 AM
Flying Scotsman Flying Scotsman is offline
 
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One other thing to consider, FWIW...I was taught that pushrods should be long enough that with the rod ends screwed on *at least halfway* on both ends, you get the correct geometry and throw. That way, even if a jamb nut loosens AND the rod turns over time, one or the other end will unscrew but *not far enough for the rod end to come off* before the other end is screwed all the way in...thus, the rod cannot physically become disconnected from either of the rod end bearings.
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  #10  
Old 07-04-2012, 11:56 PM
Flying Scotsman Flying Scotsman is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LettersFromFlyoverCountry View Post
Again, just to reinforce, there are two separate steps here. One is the BIG pushrod, whose length and rod-end bearings are adjusted so when the elevator is clamped in its neutral position, the bellcrank is vertical.

The other is the smaller pushrod which connects to your control sticks and is adjusted so that the stick is slightly forward as people indicated.

Also, make sure that shorter, thinner pushrod is not hitting the top of the pass through of the 705 bulkhead (the one just behind the seats). If someone didn't properly secure a rod end bearing on an elevator pushrod, there's a pretty good chance he/she/it wasn't particularly committed to this pushrod either.
Installing elevator pushrods tomorrow...just to confirm that there is no measurement other than "vertical" on the elevator bellcrank? I believe that on the -8 there is a measurement called out somewhere, but I couldn't locate any such measurement on the -7 plans.
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