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05-22-2012, 07:26 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
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I made the first cut on the aft edge of the top tonight and can confirm that I'll be into the honeycomb by ~1 inch. So it will require a modification of the core.
Once I get the fit a bit closer, I'll be able to tell you exactly how far and I'll share how I went through the modifications.
For those following along from home, I'm still on Vans plans and currently completing Step 5 on page 47-5. (That kinda reminds me of the old Captain Kangaroo. If you've got the papers, follow along at home!  )
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05-23-2012, 04:35 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Albury, NSW, Australia
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH
Good plan Phil. Bowing between fasteners is the one gotcha with 1/4 turns, so added glass thickness is a plus. Next time I'll probably run a two-ply carbon strip on the inside and outside for stiffness.
No joke....pressures ballooning the cowl can be over 100 lbs per sq ft.
BTW, if I had to choose between hinges and reworking the edge of the core for flange clearance w 1/4 turns, bring on the grinder!
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Which is 0.69psi
I am using the Milspec fasteners. I have just riveted on the flanges. Now you've got me worried. I have the grey cowl. I won't know if it all fits until mount the engine and start trimming the cowl.
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05-23-2012, 04:44 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
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You can get a strip of carbon fiber tape and run it parallel to the tabs. That'll keep it from bowing out.
I picked up 12' of this today, but I think I'm going to need another 12' to do all the edges of the cowling.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ctiontapes.php- Right and Left sides of the upper cowl.
- Aft edge of the upper cowl.
- Right and Left sides of the lower cowl.
- Right and Left Aft Edge of lower cowl.
I'm pretty sure that's more than 12'. But I'll wait and see before I buy another roll. $$$
Unidirectional glass would be fine too, but I just like the rigidity of carbon here because it for sure won't bow.
Phil
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05-23-2012, 05:35 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil
You can get a strip of carbon fiber tape and run it parallel to the tabs. That'll keep it from bowing out.
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...if you run a strip on both the inside and the outside of the cowl, with the existing glass as a core. Adding carbon to just the inside would be a poor utilization of material property.
Quote:
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Unidirectional glass would be fine too, but I just like the rigidity of carbon here because it for sure won't bow.
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Roughly 3, maybe 4 times more rigid.
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
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05-23-2012, 06:20 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH
...if you run a strip on both the inside and the outside of the cowl, with the existing glass as a core. Adding carbon to just the inside would be a poor utilization of material property.
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Hmm. I was thinking of running it on the inside only. I'm not sure I could run in externally and get it to blend in. I might be able to remove the honeycomb core and that's probably overkill and a lot of extra work for little return when I could just lay down a couple of extra layers of 9oz cloth as shim.
Phil
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05-23-2012, 06:44 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,788
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Running strips on the inside will make the task of cutting into the honeycomb less intrusive, as the brackets will sit lower inside the cowl..
__________________
Bill Peyton
RV-10 - 1125 hrs
N37CP
First Flight Oct 2012
Aviation Partners, LLC
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05-23-2012, 07:30 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
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Interference.....
I got the top trimmed today. Here is the interference Bill warned us of. Looks like 1/4" approximately. I'll likely remove .75-1.0" assuming the rest of the cowling measures out the same.
More to follow. I'll keep you posted.

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05-23-2012, 08:55 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Denver
Posts: 564
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Phil,
I used milspec fasteners on the firewall edge of the upper cowl of my -10, but did not add any layers of fiberglass or carbon fiber. In flight I do get about 1/8" of bulging right at the midline of the cowl; none elsewhere. If I was doing it again I would add another fastener closer to the centerline. I don't think you will need much reinforcement to eliminate the bulging.
Jim Berry
Rv-10
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05-23-2012, 09:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
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Do you have the pink cowl too Jim?
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05-23-2012, 09:43 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
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After looking at the photo closer, I think I might change my plans with regards to removing a 1" band of core material on the aft end of the cowling. Instead I think I'm going to only remove the areas of interference. It will be less intrusive and create a small recess around the tabs.
The idea is that those recesses will guide the cowling into the perfect position around the tabs. It would essentially lock in the perfect position for the fasteners to be aligned.
Might be a crazy idea, but it doesn't sound that unreasonable. It's probably less work than removing a 1" band and then repairing it all the way around the cowl.
Does that sound more user friendly from an on-and-off perspective? Or could I be setting myself up for a frustrating experience getting it on and off?
Phil
Last edited by Phil : 05-23-2012 at 10:16 PM.
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