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  #1  
Old 05-21-2012, 04:37 PM
Phil's Avatar
Phil Phil is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
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Default Skybolt Fasteners - Installation

Anyone have a site that profiles the installation of Skybolt's fasteners on the cowling? The documentation doesn't really talk about the 10 installation which is completely different from the installation they have documented for the two place model.

There's some tricks with regards to layout that I'm not fully grasping.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil

Last edited by Phil : 05-21-2012 at 04:51 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-21-2012, 10:02 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Phil,
I tried to do the installation and actually riveted them to the firewall. Unfortunately they would not work without modifying the cowling. I believe it is due to the grey cowling that came with my kit. The honeycomb portion of the cowling extends too far to,the aft edge of the cowl, which would not allow the sky bolt triangular brackets to lay flat on the inside surface of the cowl. I spoke with someone who spoke with the designer of the bracket, who suggested I grind down the entire rear edge of the cowl to remove the honeycomb. This would allow the brackets to lay flat on the inside of the cowl. I chose not to do that and returned the items to skybolt and went with the factory hinges.
Having said all of that, now that the hinges are installed, I can see it would be a lot easier to remove the cowl with the skybolt fasteners. So before you rivet them on, you might want to take a look at your cowl fabrication.
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  #3  
Old 05-21-2012, 10:35 PM
jay.pearlman jay.pearlman is offline
 
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Default fasteners

You can bend the skybolt fastener tabs somewhat to match the cowl angle. Working on a -6, that was necessary and ended up working well.
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  #4  
Old 05-22-2012, 07:44 AM
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Thanks Bill.

I have the same gray cowl and I never thought about the interference between the honeycomb and the tabs. That's good to watch for.

Good tip.
Phil
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  #5  
Old 05-22-2012, 08:05 AM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Phil,
Here's the link to the instructions for installing the MILSPEC Camloc kit on RV's: http://www.milspecproducts.com/instructionsindex.htm
I know they're not Skybolt, but you might find it helpful nonetheless. Besides having to adjust the width of your mounting tabs (or relieving the honeycomb) to eliminate interference, don't forget that you might need to shim between the tabs and the firewall flange to get the right depth so the that the cowl will sit flush to to the fuse skins. I'm planning on .020 shims just like the plans call for when using hinges.
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  #6  
Old 05-22-2012, 01:08 PM
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Default

I'm planning on shimming to .032 and then adding a couple of layers of 9oz cloth to the inside of the cowling as required to bring it back flush to the deck of the upper fuselage. That will accomplish a perfect fit because I can sand down into the added layers as (if) needed.

But it should net out around .020. It'll just be stronger around the attach points and also less likely to balloon out in flight.

Phil
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  #7  
Old 05-22-2012, 04:13 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil View Post
It'll just be stronger around the attach points and also less likely to balloon out in flight.
Good plan Phil. Bowing between fasteners is the one gotcha with 1/4 turns, so added glass thickness is a plus. Next time I'll probably run a two-ply carbon strip on the inside and outside for stiffness.

No joke....pressures ballooning the cowl can be over 100 lbs per sq ft.

BTW, if I had to choose between hinges and reworking the edge of the core for flange clearance w 1/4 turns, bring on the grinder!
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  #8  
Old 05-22-2012, 04:48 PM
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Good to know Dan. Thanks.

I was thinking of a 3" carbon strip too that runs parallel to the scallops. Most likely it would be laying on top of the honeycomb, but that's fine. I think a couple of strips of carbon fiber would eliminate any chances of ballooning.

They have some at the local West Marine, but it would require removing half the money from my son's college fund. So I'm probably going to add some on to my next order from Spruce.

Phil

Last edited by Phil : 05-22-2012 at 05:10 PM.
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  #9  
Old 05-22-2012, 05:35 PM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
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Default Holes

Make sure you drill 15/32 holes. Not 1/2"
Like the instructions say " if you don't have a 15/32 step drill. "
If you don't have a 15/32 step drill, drill a smaller diameter with
Your step drill and finish off with a 15/32 twist drill. 1/2" allows
To much play in the 1/4 turn screw. Only an issue with
The non floating fasteners.
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  #10  
Old 05-22-2012, 06:58 PM
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roadrunner20 roadrunner20 is offline
 
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Default

I've considered converting my piano hinge to skybolt.
I'm just finishing up my 7A to 7 conversion and unfortunately, I have to trim my cowling back about 1/2".
This is my final task. It would probably be easier to trim and attach the skybolt fasteners versus relocating the hinge back and realigning.
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