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05-05-2012, 04:13 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 211
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Frustrating wing heavy
I'm about out of ideas on my left wing heavy problem, which requires the full electric trim setting and even then seems marginal and requires nearly continuous right stick force. I've checked and adjusted the aileron vertical heights more than I think is reasonable and it didn't help much (about a 1/2 bolt hole diameter). I've adjusted a minor difference in elevators, and checked the horizontal stabilator's squareness to the fuse. I don't see any issues with the rudder or vertical stab, and I've fixed a ding in the wing tips. I've flown with and without the fairings and wheel pants, and it makes no difference. Rudder trim is just slightly right at cruise. Quick-build wings and fuse, so hard to believe wing incidence angles would be off.
So, could it be the wing tip's trailing edge shape, one of which seems to have more curve upward than the other? Everything was in alignment (flaps, ailerons, tip) when I set it up, but have had to make some changes so no longer in alignment. But it sure doesn't look like a lot of difference.
Any other ideas? I'm going to call Van's Monday if nothing else comes to mind.
Dwight
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RV-10 #40762 - 100 hrs+
Denver, CO
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05-05-2012, 06:45 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Dixon Ca
Posts: 91
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Heavy Wing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Space Cadet
I'm about out of ideas on my left wing heavy problem, which requires the full electric trim setting and even then seems marginal and requires nearly continuous right stick force. I've checked and adjusted the aileron vertical heights more than I think is reasonable and it didn't help much (about a 1/2 bolt hole diameter). I've adjusted a minor difference in elevators, and checked the horizontal stabilator's squareness to the fuse. I don't see any issues with the rudder or vertical stab, and I've fixed a ding in the wing tips. I've flown with and without the fairings and wheel pants, and it makes no difference. Rudder trim is just slightly right at cruise. Quick-build wings and fuse, so hard to believe wing incidence angles would be off.
So, could it be the wing tip's trailing edge shape, one of which seems to have more curve upward than the other? Everything was in alignment (flaps, ailerons, tip) when I set it up, but have had to make some changes so no longer in alignment. But it sure doesn't look like a lot of difference.
Any other ideas? I'm going to call Van's Monday if nothing else comes to mind.
Dwight
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Dwight
We had the same issue on our Saratoga. What we found was a Flap was jist a bot out of rib. A few turns on the Actuating rod and not in perfect harmony.
The easiest way to test is use a digital level and check the bottom flap skin angle on the same rib and check the angles. ours was out a few degrees.
I know the RV-10 is rigged with the flaps up firm the the reap spar. But you could have one a bit off and not know it.
You might also want to confirm the angle on incidence on each wing to make sure it is set right.
It does not take much to be off amd have a heavy wing.
Good luck.
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John Cumins A & P for way to long
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Emp complete , slow build Wings Fuel Tanks Finished, ailerons, and bottom wing skins ready to rivet on. Working on Flaps
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05-05-2012, 08:40 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 211
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how to change
I've already rigged the flaps a second time, pretty sure they are set properly. I can check the angles to be sure.
If it is the wing incidence angle, how do you fix it? I would think that would be a massive change.
D
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RV-10 #40762 - 100 hrs+
Denver, CO
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05-05-2012, 10:12 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 6,797
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My -10 was initially left wing heavy, but lowering the outboard end of the left aileron by one or two 32" made a significant difference. Are you sure that when you elongated the attachment fitting holes that it didn't slip back to its original position when you re-assembled?
This "fix" is so common that Van's sells attach brackets with no holes pre-drilled. They're for the -7 but will fit the ten with a bit of trimming.
I'm not sure the "squeeze the aileron trailing edge" trick works on the ten.
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05-05-2012, 11:07 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,516
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No squeeze
Sorry, the squeeze does not work on ailerons with the trailing edge riveted.
This trick works well on bent aileron skins.
I know, no one wants a trim tab but you could at least stick one on with tape and see if you can correct it with a tab and then decide if it might be acceptable to rivet it in place for good.
It is said that Van's personal RV-10 has a small trim tab on the aileron.
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Ernst Freitag
RV-8 finished (sold)
RV-10 Flyer 600 plus hours
Running on E10 mogas
Don't believe everything you know.
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05-05-2012, 11:08 PM
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JOAT-MON & Moderator
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Vincent, Ohio
Posts: 737
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The apex wedges on the RV10 ailerons are a little tough to squeeze 
Verify your entire aircraft alignment and rigging by triple checking everything, all components. Start at the beginning and be systematic, check off each component one by one and you'll find your problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7Guy
Simply squeeze the trailing edge of the LIGHT wing aileron. There is countless discussions on this. It a 5 minute deal, a flight to evaluate and maybe a little more squeezing.
I had this on my seven and went through all the rigging set up. It was right and I knew it. Called Van's and they said, "squeeze the light wing aileron."
Done deal. Dead nuts straight and true. Wasted hours!!!!
FYI, this is an imperceptible squeeze. I think it is black magic myself. But it worked!!!
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05-06-2012, 05:19 AM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Brisbane Qld. Aust.
Posts: 2,271
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We had the opposite problem
we put a trim tab under the left aileron, YOU WILL NEED ONE under the right aileron.
This is VERY NORMAL.
Vans will tell you this too.. No two machines are the same or perfect.
If you have electric trim this may be a subtle difference to the spring forces V stick forces.
Get flaps rigged right, go from there with a tab. Tape one off at first and test. Then rivet it on later, put it under the aileron, that way nobody see's it nor hits their leg on it!
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05-06-2012, 07:30 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Waycross, Ga.
Posts: 243
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fly straight.
I took a heat gun and heated the wing tip trailing edge and gradually tweaked a slight change in the profile. Now it flies straight. best if you do this before that fancy paint job.
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Claude Stokes (sportpilot)
Finished Building an RV-10 and a Titan Tornado 2 
RV10 approaching 150 hours Vans kit 40418
See Pictures of the RV10 here. http://btconline.net/~sportpilot/RV10/boatright
Waycross, Ga. Airport KAYS
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05-06-2012, 09:16 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary Alberta Canada
Posts: 456
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I tried everything to avoid the trim tab. In the end I added one. It is 1/4 wide and 5" long with a small bend. It does not take much. I just wanted no trim with equal tanks. Check out how big some of the trim tabs are on most certified  You wil not feel bad for having one. Rv's get built very straight.
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Troy Branch
RV10 Built and Flying Since Feb 2009
950hrs Plus
CC EX-2 Flying
SuperSTOL Built and Sold
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Dues paid Nov 2019
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05-06-2012, 10:42 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 211
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Thanks all. I'll go check the measurements and angles again. I have not tried to check wing incidence, but will just to see. I did double check all my slots after the first adjustment, I'll confirm this latest adjustment didn't move. Was surprised that moving the left had no impact, so I have pretty much given up on that solution (unless it did slip).
Troy, I assume you're imbalance was small, say within the range of a fuel imbalance?
So no one seems to think it's the tips, that's interesting at least.
Who's got some pics of their tabs handy? Or where's the instructions for it, I've been ignoring it thinking I'd not need it
Dwight
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RV-10 #40762 - 100 hrs+
Denver, CO
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