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  #1  
Old 02-16-2012, 12:04 AM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: 45G, Brighton, MI
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Default Elevator Trim Spar/Root Rib Countersinks?

I'm working on page 6-10 of the RV-7 manual and DWG 4, left elevator. Near the bottom of page 6-10 I'm instructed to machine countersink either the forward face of the E-705 root rib or the aft face of the E-606PP trim spar. The drawing calls for #3 flush rivets, but I noticed that I've already drilled the two holes to #30 (like just about every other rib-to-spar rivet hole in the project so far).

Since the instructions say either side can be countersunk, I'm assuming that flush rivets are not really required, and they're only flush because they'd be the only two #3 universal rivets in the empennage. Can I just use #4 universal head rivets here, or should I use NAS1097AD4 reduced head rivets, or should I get new parts? Edge distance on both parts is about 7/32".
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2012, 06:30 AM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Miles, the -8 instructions are the same in this area.

The aft face of 606PP becomes the resting area of the securing the trim tab hinge pin. I do not think it matters what rivets go in there, just keep the aft surface as flat as possible. I'd go with the small head (opps) -4 rivet and squeeze it together. For sure you do not need to order new parts.
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2012, 09:44 AM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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Thanks David,

The hinge pin was the only possible interference I saw too. I was hoping that maybe I could bend the end of the pin so it wouldn't interfere with AN470AD4 rivet heads, but I didn't have much time last night to take a close look at that option. The NAS1097 rivet solution bothers me a little due to the small bearing area on the factory head, but if the joint is designed for #3 rivets in the first place, maybe it's OK. I emailed the same queston to Van's support and should get a reply before the end of the day.

Thanks again for your reply,
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Miles (VAF# 1238, Paid up as of 2018)
RV-7 TU 904KM (reserved)
Wings Fitted and Finish Kit on site

Construction Log
Picasa: Empennage Album, Wings Album, Fuselage Album

1955 Cessna 170B flying since 1982

'To get something you never had, you have to do something you never did.' -Unk.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:33 AM
hayabusa hayabusa is offline
 
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Did you guys receive a longer piece of piano hinge than what was required for the trim tab?
Mine was 3/8 over size and the hinge pin is no where near long enough to bend and secure as per the drawings.
I have the 3/8 of pin sticking out when it`s installed all the way.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:56 AM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayabusa View Post
Did you guys receive a longer piece of piano hinge than what was required for the trim tab?
Mine was 3/8 over size and the hinge pin is no where near long enough to bend and secure as per the drawings.
I have the 3/8 of pin sticking out when it`s installed all the way.
I seem to remember a note in either the instructions or plans that a longer pin is included in the fuselage kit. I hope to know for sure in a week or so...
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Miles (VAF# 1238, Paid up as of 2018)
RV-7 TU 904KM (reserved)
Wings Fitted and Finish Kit on site

Construction Log
Picasa: Empennage Album, Wings Album, Fuselage Album

1955 Cessna 170B flying since 1982

'To get something you never had, you have to do something you never did.' -Unk.
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  #6  
Old 04-15-2012, 10:23 AM
rvindo rvindo is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Indonesia
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Unhappy elevator trim assembly

does anybody know about the trim tab assembly drilled hole was not align? I'm building the trim and found out that all the pre drilled hole was not match ? anybody had the same problem ? do I need to make new hole for the rivet ?
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:41 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Default Welcome to VAF!!!!

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  #8  
Old 04-15-2012, 06:19 PM
rvindo rvindo is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Indonesia
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Question elevator trim assembly

everything was doing so good with my project of making right elevator first and the left after I get good at it . now i know that the factory drilled hole for those trim spar was not match the spar skin . they should not drill instead , they should leave it blank or just make one hole to the very edge of it . that will make us think that we should drill all the hole our self . , . please tel me if anybody has the same problems . actually it's not a hard thing to do , but since the hole was to close to match it left me with oval hole if i drill through the factory drilled ! any suggestion before I drill them out ?
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