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  #1  
Old 03-18-2012, 06:32 PM
Stalldog Stalldog is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 332
Default Rivet Set Marred/Scratched Skin -- WHY???

Need some advice, please. When I began bucking the 426 rivets in the HS skin, the first five or six marred the surface slightly. Brand new swivel rivet set from Isham. I had the pressure set about 42 psig, but later learned it needed to be lower so I've been using 34 to 36 psig lately with good results.

These marks shouldn't make a hill of beans since I'm planning to have the plane painted, but why it happened has me puzzled. After driving the first two rivets I stopped and lightly buffed the rivet set face with a polishing compound, then tried it again, and same thing happened. Then, for who knows why, after about six or seven rivets the problem went away. I've posted pictures below.

If you've seen this before I would like to know what caused it in case it shows up again.

By the way, I have no idea if I've inserted the pictures right or not. The first is the marred skin, the second is several rivets later, probably 20 or so.

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/1754/dsc0051za.jpg

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/2839/dsc0053pr.jpg
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  #2  
Old 03-18-2012, 07:03 PM
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Bruce Bruce is offline
 
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Default

Jim,
Looks fine. Second one is better.
Get some Rivet tape at the Yard store if you
want. That will help. Use a rubber swivel head
on the gun that will help also.

Round marks are from dimpling.
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  #3  
Old 03-18-2012, 07:55 PM
Stalldog Stalldog is offline
 
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Location: Kansas
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Thanks, Bruce. Odd thing is I'm using the rubber swivel head. Of course, it seemed to mark where the head was hitting, so not sure the rubber did anything to prevent it. Again, what's really got me puzzled is why it stopped!
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  #4  
Old 03-18-2012, 08:32 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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Location: Ramona, CA
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The flush rivet set is going to impart (scuff) some of its steel on the aluminum surface that you are hitting. My solution is to take some heavy duty clear packaging tape and cover the rivet heads as you go. A couple of square inches is all you need and you can pull it off and restick it as you go down the line. Think of it as poor man's rivet tape. The tape holds up well and keeps the rivet set from hitting the aluminum. For solo riveting, it also helps hold the rivet in place as you get the gun and bucking bar in place.
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  #5  
Old 03-18-2012, 09:00 PM
paul mosher
 
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Default masking tape

I usually put a few layers of masking tape on the set.
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  #6  
Old 03-18-2012, 09:53 PM
instructor_bill instructor_bill is offline
 
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Location: Petaluma, CA
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Default Try 3M page tabs

thicker than tape

easier to remove than clear packing tape (because it rips)

very reusable.


The scratches/marring are not a big deal, but this will prevent it.
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  #7  
Old 03-18-2012, 11:15 PM
Trevor778 Trevor778 is offline
 
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I actually use hockey sock tape to protect my snaps. It's the exact width of my flush set, thick enough that it lasts a long time, cheap (a buck a roll), and it's pliable enough that I even use it on my an470's. I dont even take the anodizing off of the shot head. It's of course very easy to find here in Canada, but Im sure you could find it in sports stores anywhere.
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  #8  
Old 03-19-2012, 04:54 AM
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BSwayze BSwayze is offline
 
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I use a little square of rivet tape, but I put it on the flush head instead of on the rivet. That way I don't have to peel it off and move it for each rivet. It will last quite a few rivets before it needs replacing.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:04 AM
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flion flion is offline
 
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Wow! I'm not being disparaging when I say that you guys go to a lot of extra trouble to prevent those marks. There's a certain sense of admiration for your effort. But the marks you get will either be removed by etch/primer or will easily polish out.
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  #10  
Old 03-19-2012, 07:15 AM
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LeeM_2000 LeeM_2000 is offline
 
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If it's important to you, get some rivet tape. It's not that expensive in the grand scheme of things and it outperforms the alternatives. You can use the same strip multiple times.
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