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Wiring the removable co-pilot stick

bruceh

Well Known Member
I like the idea of having dual controls, but also want to be able to remove the co-pilot stick when not needed. I have 2 Tosten grips (9 wires). Hardwiring the pilot stick is done. I ran the wires down the stick tube and out the bottom. Wiring in the co-pilot stick presents a couple of options. I could run the wires out the side of the tubing above the quick disconnect button and use a connector (db-9 type), or try to go down and out the bootom of the stick tube. Coming out of the side seems easier, but the connector is going to potentially interfere with the control movement. It doesn't look like there is much space between the stick and the seat pan cut out for a connector. Going down the tube and out the bottom doesn't have enough room for the connector between the control tubes for the ailerons.

I like the idea in this thread, but maintenance would be impossible.

What have others done here? Photos would be appreciated.
 
Bruce-

I struggled with this too. Ultimately, and b/c I followed Vans SB to bolt the stick in place anyway, I chose to hardwire the PTT on the copilot stick.

In retrospect, what I realized is almost never will the plane be flown PIC from the right seat. Consequently, were I do to it again I would just do like Van's does on their demonstrators and put a PTT switch on the panel within easy reach of the co-pilot
 
I also have a Tosten grip on the passenger stick. I used a quick disconnect button like others have posted about. I found a 2-pin Molex connector small enough to fit inside the stick, then ran the wiring out the bottom. Protected the wires against chafing with some mil-spec "chinese finger" loom similar to what Tosten supplies on their grips.

I dropped a large snap bushing into the stick socket so the Molex connector on the fuselage end of the wiring couldn't fall through, then put a zip tie around the wire behind the connector so I could fish it out when needed. Not the best photo, but maybe it conveys the idea.

i-nfQGcLR-L.jpg
 
My passenger PTT is on the panel!

Which means it's a heckuva lot simpler to wire up, too. Had I been more focused on simple when I was picking components and designing my wiring architecture, I probably would have done the same thing...
 
PTT switch and Mini Trim toggle sw. on panel in front of Co-Pilot. Love it. Larry
 
First big cross-country I took in an RV was as Co-Pilot to Sun'n Fun. My friend wanted me to occasionally use the radio to check weather, talk to other pilots, etc., while he remained PIC. (This was circa 1997.)

Every time I keyed the PTT on the Co-Pilot's stick we either gained or lost 20 feet or more in altitude. (Remember I was not flying, just talking. He was still PIC.)

That experience told me right then that when I finish my RV, the PTT for the Co-Pilot will be on the panel. ;)
 
PTT switch

Ours in on the panel, works out great and good to have a backup for the pilots side switch. Sure is nice to take the passenger control stick out for my wife.
 
I have the same setup

I have the tosten grips on both sticks in my -6a. I used a 9-pin mini din connector. The connector fits in the stick so there in no need to route the connection outside the stick which would weaken it.

There is some fine soldering to do and I needed to also put heat shrink tube on each solder joint. But it does work and it is easy to remove/replace the stick as needed. I wrapped the wire around a screwdriver to make a coil that easily takes up the slack when the stick is incerted into the base.
 
For the co-pilot PPT I used these RC battery connectors:
150MM-RC-Plane-lipo-battery-connector-JST-plug-JST-line-low-sipping.jpg


To hold the stick in place I use a "Quick-Release Button Connectors for Telescoping Tubing" from www.mcmastercarr.com.

92988a650p1l.png

Funny thing; I used precisely the same quick release button connector (guess where I bought them)... Had to buy several to get one in case anyone's looking for a copy.
 
Removable stick

I also used the same quick release button for telescoping tubing, as in the photo. They were used in the passenger removable stick and the grips. You can get stainless or galvanized material. I used stainless. Also, quick release connection was used for the passenger stick.
 
I wrapped the wire around a screwdriver to make a coil that easily takes up the slack when the stick is inserted into the base.

Similar setup for me, but I used an old coiled computer cable (like a coiled phone cord - you do remember those, right?) inside the stick which keeps the connector up inside nicely but comes out when needed. These typically have 4 wires but I only used two of them.

Greg
 
Funny thing; I used precisely the same quick release button connector (guess where I bought them)... Had to buy several to get one in case anyone's looking for a copy.

I would be more than happy to purchase one from you.
 
BTW, I used the RC battery connector shown below outside of the stick.

I drilled a hole through the front of the stick, inserted a rubber grommet, and then ran the wires through it.

The matting wire was attached to the outside of the stick base with zip ties.

The wires are covered by the stick boot which keeps them from getting tangled with anything.
150MM-RC-Plane-lipo-battery-connector-JST-plug-JST-line-low-sipping.jpg
 
I do want to have a fully functional co-pilot stick. My kids may want to learn to fly in this thing some day. That being said, I need at least 9 pins of connector to go down the stick. I did use the McMaster quick disconnect button, and there is sufficient room to route the wires to one side of that and still have it work to hold the stick in place.

Mark: I'm going to give your solution a try. I thought I had the controls in place permanently, but it looks like taking out the weldment is the best way to get this bonded in place without making a huge mess. So far I haven't seen any examples of the connector for 9 pins be run outside of the stick. If anyone has photos of that, please share!
 
Just a follow up post. I went ahead and did Mark's solution by epoxying a 9 pin D-sub connector in the middle of the stick. I found some 5 minute epoxy gel that wouldn't run at the local auto parts store and got both connectors installed without any drama.

IMG3893-M.jpg


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More pictures and commentary on my website.
 
Nice

Bruce,
Very nice job! It looks better than mine.

I also looked around your website and you are building a very nice airplane!

I'm looking forward to reading your first flight report.

Mark
 
Anybody have one of these quick disconnect button deals lying around? I'd gladly PayPal you a couple bucks if you'd drop one in an envelope and send it to me. (PM for address)
 
To hold the stick in place I use a "Quick-Release Button Connectors for Telescoping Tubing" from www.mcmastercarr.com.

92988a650p1l.png

I was cruising the interwebs (on break?.yeah on my break) and found these guys. Valco / Valley tool and Die in Ohio. They manufacture several type of these push buttons. They call them snap buttons. I gave them a call and they sent me a sample of the zinc plate of the C-type (C-131) http://valcocleve.com/productdetail.asp?pid=C-131&cat=snap&category=C%20Style%20Button with .25?D x .25?H for .75? I.D. tubes. FITS PERFECTLY! Thought I?d add this to the options for us that go this route. They do offer small orders of 4 or so, but if you call and ask nicely they may send you a free sample.

*Note: The dog leg was sent to me from another member here on VAF which I did appreciate. Unfortunately it was to large for this application but shown here for visual comparison.

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