proseal hardening time - Page 2

Larco · #11 03-09-2012, 02:45 PM

FWIW: I talked to the manufacture rep a couple of years ago and was told that it is fuel ready when you can touch it without leaving a fingerprint. The halogen shop lights work wonders in cool weather to help shorten the cure time. Larry

drycreek · #12 03-09-2012, 03:01 PM

The 3.5 oz proseal cures faster than the quart variety. I used the quart sized can and it took about 3 days for it to get dry to the touch, but that was with 65 degree temperatures.

DonFromTX · #13 03-09-2012, 04:37 PM

Certainly not to be recommending alternate mixes, but I did some checks and you can put in far too little black stuff, or far too much. The only difference seems to be that with wildly too much black, it sets up quicker. End result seems to be the same either way. My point is, don't worry too much if you get off a gram or two in the measurements. Some of the old timers with it just mix to a certain color of the mix.

Jerry Wilcox · #14 03-09-2012, 05:13 PM

Hi
I usually have a few pieces of flat (window type) plexiglass around. It has a paper covering on both sides. I mix a batch of proseal on the paper use what I need then after it cures peal the paper off the plexi and mix the next time on the glass. You only need about a 4" square piece of plexi and after it's used for 4 mixes it goes in the trash. I must also be one of the oldtimers mentioned as I have never measured the stuff, when the colour is rite it's good to go. I find it easier to mix on the flat surface rather than a cup, no corners to get into.
Jerry

Ron B. · #15 03-09-2012, 06:39 PM

I used plastic throw away plates. Cheap and large mixing surface.

bruceh · #16 03-09-2012, 07:02 PM

I use 2 popsicle sticks and a paper plate. Use 1 stick for the white goo, and 1 for the black goo. Pre-weigh the plate and sticks on a digital scale, then start adding the proseal until you get a 10 to 1 mix. Use the sticks to stir it all together. I usually scoop up the mixture using the sticks and put it in a disposable plastic syringe. The syringe makes a great applicator. When you are done, leave the sticks and plate to cure as a test sample. You can poke and play with the sample and not disturb your work on the aircraft (or mess it up).

DaAV8R · #17 03-09-2012, 07:05 PM

I can't imagine trying to mix this stuff in a cup and getting it mixed thoroughly. I mixed on ceramic tile with a stiff putty knife as recommended to me by a friend. Worked great. I was able to scrape, fold and draw the goo across the tile. By drawing the goo with a putty knife it's possible to spot any unmixed hardener.

jwilbur · #18 03-09-2012, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Wilcox

Hi
I usually have a few pieces of flat (window type) plexiglass around. It has a paper covering on both sides. I mix a batch of proseal on the paper use what I need then after it cures peal the paper off the plexi and mix the next time on the glass. You only need about a 4" square piece of plexi and after it's used for 4 mixes it goes in the trash. I must also be one of the oldtimers mentioned as I have never measured the stuff, when the colour is rite it's good to go. I find it easier to mix on the flat surface rather than a cup, no corners to get into.
Jerry

This seems to be close to what I tried just a little while ago. I bought a nice big $1.50 ceramic tile (very smooth) from home depot. I was so relieved to find that it was very easy to mix. Then when I finished, I just got a few paper-towels soaked in MEK and it cleaned right up. I'll be using the time again.

Thanks everybody for the comments.

Jeff A · #19 03-09-2012, 09:26 PM

Sorry, I just have to add my two cents. As an A&P on corporate airplanes for the past 10+ years, and military helicopters before that, I have used sealant on a weekly, often daily basis. Just like nose tissue is called "Kleenex", we call all sealant "Proseal", doesn't matter if it's Proseal, Chemseal, Flamemaster, etc. Every external panel on our Gulfstream gets sealed when it goes back on. You seal both to keep fuel in and water out. Three tools, that's all....latex gloves, cardboard, and tongue depressors. I have never used a scale, and have never had sealant not setup. If the sealant is too light grey, add more black. If it's too black, add more white. I promise this method works...don't put that much thought into it... Good luck to all.

rockwoodrv9 · #20 04-07-2012, 06:23 PM

I purchased the 3.5oz flamemaster from Vans and going to do my rudder. I have been trying to figure out how to mix only a portion of the mix. With the white part in the main tube and the black in the tube, it looks like I have to mix it all up at once if I use it as designed.

Has anyone tried mixing only a portion of this kit? I figure I can just spoon some of the white out and mix it with the other part for the amount I need. Or is it better to just mix it all and throw out the leftover?