fiberglass cloth/windscreen

[Bob Kuykendall]

Originally Posted by az_gila

You can actually get both in a single package...

A 45 degree bias in tape format. West Systems sells it as a double layer tape, and it does work well...

http://www.pyacht.com/west-biaxial-tape.htm

That stuff is basically strips of Kyntex knitted double-bias. I like using it for shear tapes in spots where it will be hidden or where it will be covered by a twill like 7725 or plain weave like 7781. But I think it doesn't drape as well as 7725, so I wouldn't use it out in the open like on a windshield fairing.

Thanks, Bob K.

[SHORTRV7]

You could mix this EPOXY PREMIUM PIGMENTS Dye so as to be seen from the cockpit it would not be yellow. Aircraft Spuce sells it.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...xyPigments.php

[Jekyll]

JJet:

Just laid mine up last week. I used the tape method (2 in). I started by cutting them as suggested by Vans starting with 1/2 in. and progressing up to 2 in. using a pizza cutter cloth doohickey. I used 8 layers with a final layer to fair things over. I used 8 layers of 2 in. tape over the roll bar and then carved down the leading edge with a rasp and sand paper. The woven edge will leave some air bubbles as it doesn't lay fully flat. I augured out the gaps with a Dremel bit and then added one application of cotton flock to fill things in. Sanded that and have a coating of micro balloons curing now. It is a bit of sanding but, it gives a nice professional look.

I dyed my epoxy black for the front fairing (for tape, flock and balloons) but, used clear epoxy over the roll bar.
I started the whole process by first applying a small fillet of black dyed micro balloons around the edge of the glass just to fill in the gap so the tape wouldn’t sag. Keep this filet small to ensure a good bonding area for the fiber glass.

I started by sanding everything well with 60 grit. I applied epoxy to the cloth strips on my table and then put them in place wet. I painted a thin layer of epoxy on the areas to be covered before placing the strips to ensure a good bond down into the sanding marks. All this was done in one, 4-hour session in order to get a good bond with all the strips.

[Bob Axsom]

I used EZ-Poxy resin with 24hr hardner but I followed the the Orndorf video using the tape. I used 9 layers around the front and over the top. After you beat the resin into the cloth with a small section of sponge before it is applied, it is so flexible that it will not give any wrinkle problems in this application. It was filled with a micro balloon and epoxy mix then sealed with epoxy thinned 50% with acetone and flown for a year before painting. It still looks perfectly smooth and seemless. As long as you take you time and work with it to get what you want it is a pretty easy job. Be sure to mask the plexiglass well.

Bob Axsom

[carlrai]

Used "Rutan Cloth" from ACS and AeroPoxy. I applied in incrementally wider strips as described in the instructions by wetting out a large two layer piece on visqueen. Prior to wetting out, I marked one side of the plastic in the 1/2, 1, 1 1/2, etc strips for use as cutting guides. Use a large Sharpie. After wetting and squeeging the excess resin from the cloth (not on the side with the lines), I put another layer of visqueen on the strips, squeegeed that down to the cloth, then cut using a pizza cutter type fabric cutter on a cutting mat, with a straightedge as a guide over the pre-marked lines.

Now you have all the strips you need, covered in visqueen and easily transported to the work surfaces. Carefully pull the visqueen off one side of the cloth, move it around and stipple in place till happy with it, trim then ends then slowly peel off the visqueent on the front side. Continue with the other strips then on the last layer, finish with peel ply, squeegeeing the material into the glass. (PeelPly is Rayon fabric available from ACS or boat building supply houses.) This DRAMATICALLY improves the finish and reduces sanding.

Adding the black pigment is a GREAT idea. Wish I had. One of the finishing touches that provides a subtle but very professional looking touch.

There's another hundred ways to do this and you'll hear them all.

Good luck!!

[rvamateur]

What do you use to get finish the surface and how do I get a fine edge at the glass/plexi intersections?

[Jekyll]

Just as Vans states in the instructions, 2 layers of good,vinyl electrical tape. You want to fill right to the edges of the tape. I overlapped the fiber glass on the tape and sanded down to the tape. It gives a nice clean edge.

[IowaRV9Dreamer]

I'm replicating the method used in the George Orndorff videos. The airplane is ready for the layups.

I've got a roll of "Standard E-Glass Tape" from Aircraft Spruce (2 inch width). Their website says it is 0.012 thick.

In the video, George used 4 layers. That would be 0.048, which seems pretty thick. Of course, the way he staggered the layers it wouldn't be that thick at the edge. Maybe only 1 or 2 layers.

Is this correct? On the plexi side, I'm thinking of using either 2 layers of electrical tape, or the roll of rubber pipe wrap tape I bought from Menards (saw it in a thread here somewhere). It is pretty tough, stretchy, and 0.024 thick. I guess I'd use just one layer of that.

I'm looking for someone to confirm that 4 layers of fiberglass tape will be OK, and maybe give me an idea of if my electrical or pipewrap tape will work or not.

I did see DanH's posts about the fineline tapes. I'd like to use what I have if it will work.

Thanks for any help!

[deek]

Okay, I don't know much about RV's yet but having built 3 EZ's glass work is something I do know about! My recommendation is use one layer of 3M (not cheapo Ace Hardware) vinyl electrical tape on the canopy plexi and use N-1** layers of 7725 cut on a 45* bias layed up on visqueen per an earlier post. Keep the edge of the N-1 layup about 1/16" away from the vinyl tape and once that is in place where you want it and all the air bubbles worked out add 1 ply of dry 7781 cut along the selvage edge (not a bias cut) and lay the selvage edge of the dry 7781 play right up to the vinyl tape. One trick is to put the selvage fiber in a little tension to pull it straight (without waves) and neatly butted up to the vinyl tape - use your finger to hold one end fixed and then "pull" along the selvage every 12" or so to create a string-straight selvage. Once it is neatly along the vinyl edge use a hair dryer and 1" cheapo paint paint brush to stipple the 7781 to pull as much epoxy as you can from the BID plys below. Once you've wet out the 7781 add a little epoxy to surface of the 7781 to ensure it is wet out. I don't like peel ply here for a couple of reasons. Careful with the hairdryer as you don't want to cook the acrylic.

** Someone else here can tell you how many ply layup (N) this needs to be for an RV.

I (obviously) like glass work and have built 5-6 EZ canopies and a couple of Glasair III windscreens using this method. It takes me longer to explain it than actually do it

[IowaRV9Dreamer]

Thanks Deek - you are way above me. I am going to mimic the Orndorff video where he puts 12-18" pieces of 2 inch tape on dry (after wetting the site) and then stipples resin into it. He said he used 4 layers. He also said he cut the edge (selvedge?) off the tape first? And, he used peel ply at the end.