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02-09-2012, 04:11 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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I will follow David and Paul here. Keep in mind, Lycoming does not even consider using preheat until 10deg F or below so what does that tell you?
Common sense, oil flows better when warm, so one could assume less wear. However, they invented multigrade oils for a very good reason. That stuff flows really well cold.
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Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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02-09-2012, 04:41 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ridgecrest, CA
Posts: 429
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Oil Temp
Aerosport IO-360. I'll do run up at 90 degrees. Then wait until 95 to take the runway. Haven't done research or found any hard numbers, but it just seems reasonable. The plane is hangered at Inyokern in the Mojave desert so I'm not dealing with real cold starts.
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02-09-2012, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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I idle at 1,000 rpm until I see 75? on the gauge. Then do run-up. Then taxi out to runway.
Oil is plenty warm at take off. IMO.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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02-09-2012, 05:25 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 109
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Straight from the Guru....110 deg F recommended
See this link from Mahlon Russell Some worth while reading including min CHT's and oil temp prior to full power.
http://www.mattituck.com/topframe.html
Non turbo 110 degs F prior to full power.
Greg
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02-09-2012, 05:49 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jeffersonville, IN
Posts: 463
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Difference of opinion?
Looks like a difference of opinion here. Have reviewed the previous post link and here is what it says (concerning some earlier comments on taxi RPMs):
Keep RPM To A Minimum At Start Up
After engine start up we should run the engine at the slowest RPM that the engine will continue to run at. If it will stay running at 700 RPM then that is the RPM we should be running at not 1400 RPM. Allowing the engine to run at a high RPM right after start with out letting it warm up can cause premature wear to many internal engine surfaces that are splash lubricated. Some of these splash lubricated components, most notably the camshaft and tappets, are especially susceptible to damage right after start with cold oil and high RPM operation. Keeping the RPM to a minimum will limit the amount of interaction of these components before enough oil has splashed around inside the engine to provide sufficient splash lubrication.
I don't know whose right or whose wrong, nor do I want to highjack this slightly different topic (taxi rpm vs safe oil temp at takeoff), but I sure would like to know the answer to the RPM max, min or whatever taxi when cold. Anybody really know? I can kinda see both points of view.Thanks. Dave
Last edited by db8 : 02-09-2012 at 05:52 PM.
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02-09-2012, 06:22 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gaspe, Qc
Posts: 139
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I always get it up to 75 before doing the run up... After the run up and by the time I get to the end of the rw, i'm right at 90-100 mark, which I feel confortable with.
Last edited by lockeed : 02-09-2012 at 07:13 PM.
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02-09-2012, 07:10 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 2,182
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100 degrees. By the time it gets to 75, it's not much longer for it to hit 100.
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Neal Howard
Airplaneless once again...
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02-09-2012, 07:12 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
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90+ before takeoff if you Love your engine.... 
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
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02-09-2012, 07:53 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gaspe, Qc
Posts: 139
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Here's a couple pics of the air valve I just built today...
Now, sorry for the crapy Iphone pics... It also need some finishing touches on the metal and rivets, and some sanding and paint. Right now it's on primer only.
I indicated with a red line how the cable is gona operate the valve. Of course, there's some hardware involded which is not in the picture.
I choosed a ratchet type, friction lock cable from ACS which is gona do the job just fine. I also installed 2 half rings inside the valve, one on each side of the butterfly door - opposite from each other, so the door can close against them and form a tight seal.
I didn't used the flimsy aluminium 3 " tube used by some... I choosed a 3" galvinized exhaust pipe. It's rock solid and I know it's gona last as long as the plane without ever wearing out... It weight about a pound so, I just didn't see the point of trying to save weight on this.
That's pretty much it.

Last edited by lockeed : 02-10-2012 at 07:52 AM.
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02-10-2012, 01:55 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: McMinnville, Oregon: HOME of the SPRUCE GOOSE
Posts: 540
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For a long lasting engine my numbers are:
90 for runup
100 for take off
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Tailwinds...
Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.
Leonardo Da Vinci
Working on a RV-4
Citabria 7GCBC
Cessna 180
RV7 I0-360 C/S, Slider, AP, Glass, etc. sold.
RV6 O-320 F/P, Slider, AP, Steam, etc., sold
Citabria 7KCAB rental
Piper Cherokee, sold
Sparrowhawk, sold
Proud -VAF- Supporter - Exempt, Dues Paid Anyway.
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