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02-04-2012, 02:04 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,785
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Jack solution
I am at the point where I need to make some jacks for the 10. I have seen a couple of examples using two Harbor F. 24" bottle jacks, adding a bottom plate and a top plate, then jacking from the fuse immediately under the spar. What are folks doing for a solution, I am soliciting any ideas?
__________________
Bill Peyton
RV-10 - 1125 hrs
N37CP
First Flight Oct 2012
Aviation Partners, LLC
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02-04-2012, 03:48 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
Posts: 4,194
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Here's what I did. It's a little more beefy, than just welding a plate to the bottom. I got a friend to fabricate a piece that screws into the tiedown hole and then slides over the top of the jack piston and a friend of his did the welding. This helps with stability when the jack is in the air.
I know if at least one person that looked into selling these, but the problem is that the freight will most likely be more than these cost to make. Any good welder should be able to fabricate with minimal direction.
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02-04-2012, 04:21 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,785
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Bob,
I can assume the jacking it from the tie down locations is approved by Vans. I think I remember reading it somewhere, it just fails me at the moment. I was going to jack it from the center, although it might not be as stable. On my Piper there is a jack plate built into the structure that has a nub to center and hold the jack from slipping. Your jacks look great !
Bill
__________________
Bill Peyton
RV-10 - 1125 hrs
N37CP
First Flight Oct 2012
Aviation Partners, LLC
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02-05-2012, 11:10 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: TULSA, OK
Posts: 62
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jack stands
I placed the jack stands under the wing spar attachpoint under the fuselage..
http://www.nwacaptain.com/jackstands.html
Greg...
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02-05-2012, 04:45 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greghale
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That's what I used to do also.
__________________
Todd
N110TD
RV-10 Vesta V8 LS2/BMA EFIS/One formerly flying at 3J1 Hobbs stopped at 150 hours
Savannah, GA and Ridgeland, SC
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02-05-2012, 06:08 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,785
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I was thinking of using a similar method as you Greg, but supporting it under the spar the entire length. I would just glue a piece of rubber on top of the cross piece the entire length. That would avoid having to remove the lower gap cover.
__________________
Bill Peyton
RV-10 - 1125 hrs
N37CP
First Flight Oct 2012
Aviation Partners, LLC
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02-05-2012, 06:12 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canal Winchester, Ohio
Posts: 417
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Bill I made the jacks for Bob and the ends that screw into the tie down threads. I made these for my airplane and they work great. I have used
Them for 2 years.
Geoff
__________________
Geoff Combs
RV-10 N829GW 865hrs
1940 Piper J3 Cub
Rans S21
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03-21-2012, 11:12 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 714
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Somebody oughta...
"Somebody" oughta make all the parts to the jacks using Bob/Geoff's design - except for the jacks that we can all buy at HF. That would cut way down on the shipping costs and there might be a market for such a package. Buy the package, drop in the jack from HF.
__________________
Bryan Douglass
=VAF= 2020 dues paid
RV-10 N242BD
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03-21-2012, 11:21 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
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This is what I used...
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57371-Ol.../dp/B000EDUUL2
I put these on a 2x12 base. Then put a 2x6 between them and the bottom of the spar. It works great.
The tail is tied down to a concrete anchor in the floor. My plane has been in the air for 3 months. I need to get motivated to get those wheel pants done.   
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03-21-2012, 02:00 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
Posts: 4,194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by douglassmt
"Somebody" oughta make all the parts to the jacks using Bob/Geoff's design - except for the jacks that we can all buy at HF. That would cut way down on the shipping costs and there might be a market for such a package. Buy the package, drop in the jack from HF.
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First off, I need to give Geoff credit. It's his design. I just supplied the jacks. Geoff and I have had several conversations on the subject. The opportunity is that shipping will probably run more than the product costs, which makes them harder to sell on the net. BTW, the jack isn't dropped in, it's welded to the stand. At least the ones that Geoff and I have are that way.
My recommendation would be to take a photo to your local welder along with the jack and have them fabricate them locally. It's not rocket science. I think it would be less expensive.
What may be beneificial for Geoff or somebody to produce the device to screw into wings to prevent the jacks from slipping. I don't know if Geoff is willing, but I really like the units he made for me. I don't have my photos at the office or I would have included it in this post.
bob
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