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01-31-2012, 08:53 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Posts: 130
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NACA Inlet Ducts
OK, this may be a stupid question but can anyone tell me where to find the instructions for how to and when to install the NACA air vent inlet ducts on the inside of the fuselage? I can't seem to find mention of them in the plans or on the drawings.
__________________
John Harrell
RV-7A Tip-up, Aero Sport Power IO-360, Dual PMags, AFP FI, Catto 3-blade, Dual Dynon Skyviews
Flying since August 2014
Mission Viejo, CA
http://www.johnsrv7a.wordpress.com
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01-31-2012, 09:13 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 180
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I just followed what a few others did. Proseal between skin and vent, eight 3/32nd blind rivets with 1/2sq aluminum pieces for added security. This is one of the few pics I have of it: http://jmjula.home.comcast.net/~jmju...f_tubing_d.jpg
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James Jula - CFI/II/MEI - N713JL RV-7A First Flight 10/12/15 - "What is chiefly needed is skill rather than machinery." Wilbur Wright, 1902
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01-31-2012, 09:49 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,370
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I put mine in after running the fuel vent lines. I attached mine with proseal and nothing else. They are not going anywhere and feel really solidly attached.

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01-31-2012, 10:18 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
Posts: 4,196
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I did the same as Bruce, proseal only. You may also want to follow up with some micro on the exterior edges to make that transition to aluminum nice and smooth. No rough edges.
bob
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01-31-2012, 10:28 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Yorkshire, England
Posts: 2,052
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West with flox, well scuffed - rock solid on 2 aeroplanes.
Used clecos to locate and clamp, then filled holes with loddy later.
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"I add a little excitement, a little spice to your lives, and all you do is complain!" - Q
Donated in 2020
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01-31-2012, 11:53 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: 45G, Brighton, MI
Posts: 1,867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike newall
West with flox, well scuffed - rock solid on 2 aeroplanes.
Used clecos to locate and clamp, then filled holes with loddy later.
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I don't get to talk with our West Midlands friends as often as I'd like; can you translate "loddy" into American for us who are English challenged? 
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Miles (VAF# 1238, Paid up as of 2018)
RV-7 TU 904KM (reserved)
Wings Fitted and Finish Kit on site
Construction Log
Picasa: Empennage Album, Wings Album, Fuselage Album
1955 Cessna 170B flying since 1982
'To get something you never had, you have to do something you never did.' -Unk.
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01-31-2012, 12:20 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,686
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Me too
I pro sealed mine exclusively too, but be careful that it doesn't move away from the skin during curing. My first one did and I had to start over after cleaning up the respective surfaces - not fun!
I like the clamps shown above - good solution to the problem I had.
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01-31-2012, 12:34 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lee's Summit, MO
Posts: 747
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Wing scoop
I finished one wing last night Woohoooooooo!
I'm ready to install the inboard skin with the scoop on the other wing. I am just realizing that I didn't receive the scoop with the wing. Someone suggested they come with the fuse. I inventoried the fuse and didn't see any scoops.
Do you think it would be best to install the wing scoop on the skin prior to riveting?
Give me the scoop 
__________________
Robert Williams
Lee's Summit, MO
RV-8 - Empennage & Wings Done
Working on Fuse
O-360-A1A
1946 Cessna 120
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01-31-2012, 12:49 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,685
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They are kind of like an option on a car
I studied the area available and what I wanted to do with routing the air. I riveted the plastic ducts in place on the side skins (no proseal). I located them high and forward to have a straight and out of sight routing of the hose/duct to the pilot and passenger controlled vents. I originally installed the plastic in cockpit control vents but I found the leakage was lowering my TAS so I replaced them with the expensive metal ones.
Bob Axsom
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01-31-2012, 01:46 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Molalla, Oregon
Posts: 955
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Good Question, John
I remember going through this same thought process. The directions aren't real clear about this, as you noted. I don't think it's too critical when you mount the vents. I think you can mount them pretty much any time you like. I waited until after I had the rudder/brake pedal assembly in place and the vent lines, etc. installed. That way they aren't in the way.
I wrote up how I did mine, with lots of pictures and discussion, on my log page here: Installing the Side Vents
I used proseal, too. You don't need rivets. It looks so much nicer and these vents will NEVER come off. The only prep work I did on the vents was to scuff them up a bit, prepping for eventual paint. I figured it's much easier to scuff them on the bench than after they're installed and you have to reach through the opening.
Here's a simple homemade clamp I made up. Strapping tape and a wood block. This will hold just fine, since the clamping pressure is light.
I used small pieces of masking tape as markers, to make sure the positioning of the vent is accurate after the proseal is applied. After it's clamped in place, additional masking tape will hold it in place and keep it from sliding out of position until the proseal cures.
The finished result:
Good luck with yours... have fun!
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