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  #11  
Old 01-24-2012, 10:08 AM
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Not sure I agree with Larry V on this one. Mouse Milk is a penetrating oil. I believe a nickel-based antiseize works better in this application. Before putting an exhaust on I paint it on and work the joint. At every condition inspection I wipe them down and reapply. The antiseize was always present the following year.
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2012, 10:40 AM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Going with Bob again on this one. I use a nickel anti-seize on all exhaust joints (slip/ball) and on all threaded exhaust parts. Studs, spring bolts, etc. SOP. Mouse milk for stuck stuff. I have been mouse milking TSIO 520 wastegates since another A&P tipped me 25 yrs ago and Rotax cured their 914 wastegate problem with an "unofficial" fix by drilling a hole in the casting over the wastegate shaft and pumping it with the "milk".
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  #13  
Old 01-24-2012, 10:47 AM
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That reminds me, I've seen enough broken exhaust studs on Continentals that makes me do the studs a little different. I rub red RTV on the exhaust flanges, the base of the cylinders and the studs. After putting it all together I take a small brush and paint the nuts and the ends of the studs with the same high temp RTV. Basically coating everything. This gives them a protective coat that stands up extremely well and prevents the corrosion that causes studs to break. Never had an exhaust gasket leak either. Getting the nuts off after painting them isn't a problem at all, and all of the red RTV comes off easy with a stainless dremel brush.
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Last edited by rocketbob : 01-24-2012 at 10:50 AM.
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  #14  
Old 01-24-2012, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
I use Biolube on Aluminum ...
Is that blood?
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  #15  
Old 01-24-2012, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Is that blood?
I don't wanna know.
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  #16  
Old 01-24-2012, 03:15 PM
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LifeofReiley LifeofReiley is offline
 
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Default Very True...

Nickel based anti-seize works very well for the exhaust joints, I guess it's just how many tubes and bottles you want laying around and if you want to disassemble or not.
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  #17  
Old 01-24-2012, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifeofReiley View Post
Nickel based anti-seize works very well for the exhaust joints, I guess it's just how many tubes and bottles you want laying around and if you want to disassemble or not.
Also specified with a yearly inspect and replace on all of the sliding joints on the STC PowerFlow exhaust systems. I

On a RV, if your crossover tube sliding joint seizes then all of the thermal expansion loads are put on the welded exhaust port flanges...
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2012, 05:11 PM
Bill Dicus Bill Dicus is offline
 
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Default Mouse Milk

Have you trade names/sources for Nickel based anti seize compounds?
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  #19  
Old 01-24-2012, 05:25 PM
LarryT LarryT is offline
 
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Default NeverSeez...

..is my personal favorite. Contains molybdenum disulfide. Piperfitters use it on steam pipe joints.

I have even used it as a camshaft assembly lube on small-block Chevrolet race engines in the flat tappet camshaft days and I never wiped the nose off a cam lobe.

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  #20  
Old 01-24-2012, 06:11 PM
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For those that use Mouse Milk on everything....how do you apply the product? I use it for my Vetterman exhaust but have not tried to use it elsewhere. Seems like it would be hard to properly apply it to other areas.
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