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01-17-2012, 11:19 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,391
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Well worth the $ (for me, anyway) to buy nice flexible braided steel, teflon-lined, tygon-coated lines. Being flexible and stainless, there is less chance that they will wear through and cause a leak.
Greg
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Greg Arehart
RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A
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01-17-2012, 11:54 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Mojave
Posts: 4,652
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Keep it on point...
Properly installed aluminum hardlines will last as long as the airframe (the same can't be said for flex), so the only practical advantage of flex is "easier". For some, that may be worth the considerable price and weight increase.
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WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.
Michael Robinson
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Harmon Rocket II -SDS EFI
RV-8 - SDS CPI
1940 Taylorcraft BL-65
1984 L39C
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01-17-2012, 12:55 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
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Agree with Michael. Use 3003 or hdwr tubing for practice, then order twice what you need in 5052. Also ensure bender is very smooth and lightly lubricate any parts of bender that make contact with aluminum tubing.
Recycle that scrap. Miller needs it.
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Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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01-17-2012, 02:46 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NorCal
Posts: 565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Gillispie
Use 3003 or hdwr tubing for practice, then order twice what you need in 5052.
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I agree, but the lines from the fuel selector to the wings on the A models are a complete !@&#^%. Perhaps a pro could get them done with 5052, but for us amateurs it's either 3003 or flexible.
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Ralph Finch
RV-9A QB-SA
Davis, CA
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01-17-2012, 10:02 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 75
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Flex fuel lines
i have to do my fuel lines shorty. where are you getting the flex fuel lines from.
thanks
russel koch
RV9A Working on wiring and conopy.
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01-17-2012, 10:10 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Paul, MN.
Posts: 4,792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrasch
I have a pile of shame too.
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Pile of Shame. That's awesome! One of these days, maybe there should be a "Show Us Your Pile of Shame" thread.
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01-17-2012, 10:30 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Posts: 130
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Here's a Tip
Bruce Swayze did a great job of documenting a relatively easy way to do this on his site here: http://www.europa.com/~swayze/RV-7A/.../20100528.html for his 7A. I imagine this would also work as well for a 9A. I just completed the lines for my 7A last weekend using the same process and it worked great. One key is to put each tube through the middle hole in the weldment, not the bottom hole as I first assumed. My tanks have flop tubes which make the job even tougher. You can see photos of my installation here.
John Harrell
RV-7A Tip-up
Empennage done, wings done, fuselage 90% done
Finishing kit scheduled to ship Feb 6
http://www.johnsrv7a.wordpress.com
Last edited by jpharrell : 01-17-2012 at 10:33 PM.
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01-18-2012, 12:30 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Manstad, Norway
Posts: 866
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Have you researched Bonaco fuel lines? And they make brake-lines too!
GREAT customer care and great product! Saves you ALOT of trouble...
Talk to Brett.
You'll find their add on the front page on this forum.
Here's a link: http://www.bonacoinc.com/
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Regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
First RV-7 completed, (bought partly finished from a US-builder) 305 hrs per July 2014, SOLD
Second -7 had first flight Feb 25th 2014. 220 hrs pr July 2019. Life is good!
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01-18-2012, 07:30 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,145
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I attempted 3 times to make that line on my 9A, each resulting in an addition to my pile of shame, before calling Brett at Bonaco. Now life is good... 
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Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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01-18-2012, 08:01 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,007
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Consider using additional fittings to break the line into shorter segments with fewer bends. That's what I do on tailwheelers, should help on a nosedragger.
The fitting for left and one for right is -6 universal bulkhead, straight or 45 as suitable, though the side of the fuel valve pedestal receiving the short kinky lines from valve to fitting, then the long straight section with merely a S-turn from fitting out the fuse.
John Siebold
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