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  #51  
Old 01-10-2012, 11:38 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 4,133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim miller View Post
Gasman
That filter looks good. How would it work to have one in each fuel line as
they run along in front of the spar just before the tank selector valve? Would
it then be safe/advisable to get rid of gascolator?

Jim
The gascolator is not needed. And Ken K. of Van's agrees. Set your pick-up tube to leave about 16 to 20oz of fuel in the tank. That's where the water will be. AND SUMP YOUR TANKS.

Anytime you place the filters before the shut off valve, you can't shut off the fuel to service the filters. If you want two filters, do what Frank said..... Two filters, two fuel pumps side by side then "T" them together after the outlet and run a single line to FFlow or firewall. You will pay about $45 for each pump and about $72 per filter. Less than $250 for a complete double fuel pump and filter system.

A mechanical fuel pump is about $210.00. Add a Andair gascolator for another $200.00........... Then ask yourself, what is a better system for today. Plus, the gascolator does not protect the back-up pump.

ps. The POWER SONIC model PS 1250 5 Amp Hr. is an AGM battery. It is safe.
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Last edited by gasman : 01-10-2012 at 11:42 PM.
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  #52  
Old 01-11-2012, 07:09 AM
jim miller jim miller is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
Posts: 197
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Gasman
That is a good looking battery and the website "Battery Plex" sells them for
$14.99. I initially planned to charge the back-up battery with external
charger but it was suggested that I charge from alternator and use a diode
to isolate the two batteries. Does anyone have specifics on the best way to
do this and size of diode needed for a 5 to 7 amp hour battery?
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  #53  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:48 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 4,133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim miller View Post
Gasman
That is a good looking battery and the website "Battery Plex" sells them for
$14.99. I initially planned to charge the back-up battery with external
charger but it was suggested that I charge from alternator and use a diode
to isolate the two batteries.
Does anyone have specifics on the best way to
do this and size of diode needed for a 5 to 7 amp hour battery?
Yes, you could set it up to charge automatically. You could also set up a system that will keep the oil topped off. This is a back-up battery. It should be checked for % of charge at every shut down. Due to my bench test of how well it held a charge, I would place it on a proper charger http://www.acichargers.com/technology.htm use the three amp model. Also good for your main battery. I would expect to charge my back-up battery about twice a year unless it was placed into service. K I S S.

My point is, it is my back-up battery for my fuel pump and ignition. I want to keep an eye on it.
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  #54  
Old 01-11-2012, 03:14 PM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 3,547
Default Purely personally

If this is a basic VFR airplane, I would wire the second fuel pump direct to the second battery with a fuse and an on/off switch. If I had two electronic ignitions I would wire the second ignition the same way.

This is the simplest and least cluttered arrangement. The I would charge the second battary thrugh a shottkey diode..This is a specific type of diode that has a lot of capacity and very small forward voltage drop.

The shottkey may also be used in place of the rectifier that Bob Knuckolls proposes in hie aerolectric connection..This is what I did in my IFR set up.

I can't for the life of me remember where I bought the Shottkey from???
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  #55  
Old 01-11-2012, 03:44 PM
jim miller jim miller is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
Posts: 197
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After I made the last post I by chance found the article by Bob N. that Frank just spoke of. I first just envisioned one diode between the two batteries but
it is more complicated than that and will just stick with my original plan to
externally charge but it will have to be a little more frequent as I will be
running both pumps during take-off and maybe landings. I am considering a
little larger battery PS-1270 7 AH which will have a little more capacity in
case of incomplete charge.
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  #56  
Old 01-11-2012, 04:49 PM
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airguy airguy is offline
 
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Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,590
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Frankh - what is the reasoning behind keeping the minimum 5 gallons of fuel reserve in each tank - insurance against opposite wing tank pump failure?

Also - do you have your pumps wired direct to the battery or on your buss through the master contactor? I'm thinking I would want to be able to hit the master if I have an electrical fault and kill everything but the pumps - which means either wire them direct or have an E-buss on a separate contactor just for the pumps (and/or other critical load).

I did end up putting both my pumps in the center floor where Vans recommends installing the boost pump. I had to stretch the boost pump housing a bit, but both pumps are in there with check valves so they can't back flow. Each tank flows through it's own filter and check valve before entering the pump, the output of the pumps are Tee'd together and go to the fuel valve, which is on/off/ferry with a port underneath to connect a ferry tank for long over-water legs.

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N16GN flying 900 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, IFD440, G5
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.

Last edited by airguy : 01-11-2012 at 05:02 PM.
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  #57  
Old 01-11-2012, 05:02 PM
frankh's Avatar
frankh frankh is offline
 
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Location: Corvallis Oregon
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I attempt to land with about 5 gallons in each tank for exactly the reason you describe..do I always do this?..No, especially if i am surounded by lots of airports.

We know the RV (even with flop tubes) has only a few ounces of unusuable fuel so a gallon of fuel will take you 20 miles or so.

Yes I use the Bob Knuckolls single battery, 2 alternator set up with both my pumps wired to the battery buss..I.e I always have the battry feed.
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  #58  
Old 01-11-2012, 05:04 PM
frankh's Avatar
frankh frankh is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 3,547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim miller View Post
After I made the last post I by chance found the article by Bob N. that Frank just spoke of. I first just envisioned one diode between the two batteries but
it is more complicated than that and will just stick with my original plan to
externally charge but it will have to be a little more frequent as I will be
running both pumps during take-off and maybe landings. I am considering a
little larger battery PS-1270 7 AH which will have a little more capacity in
case of incomplete charge.
Well it depends on what you want. In my Zodiac it was not more complicated than I described..I simply had two batteries and a diode between them.

One pump from each battery and they both then charge from the single alternator.

Really very simple.
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  #59  
Old 01-11-2012, 05:26 PM
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rcpaisley rcpaisley is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Upland, CA
Posts: 290
Default duel fuel pump module

Let us know if we can help out with our Dual Fuel Pump module.
You can see it at:
http://flyefii.com/add_components/ad...l_comp.htm#FPM
It really cleans up the installation and is built with the highest quality pumps.

Robert Paisley
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  #60  
Old 01-11-2012, 06:24 PM
frankh's Avatar
frankh frankh is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 3,547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airguy View Post
Frankh - what is the reasoning behind keeping the minimum 5 gallons of fuel reserve in each tank - insurance against opposite wing tank pump failure?

Also - do you have your pumps wired direct to the battery or on your buss through the master contactor? I'm thinking I would want to be able to hit the master if I have an electrical fault and kill everything but the pumps - which means either wire them direct or have an E-buss on a separate contactor just for the pumps (and/or other critical load).

I did end up putting both my pumps in the center floor where Vans recommends installing the boost pump. I had to stretch the boost pump housing a bit, but both pumps are in there with check valves so they can't back flow. Each tank flows through it's own filter and check valve before entering the pump, the output of the pumps are Tee'd together and go to the fuel valve, which is on/off/ferry with a port underneath to connect a ferry tank for long over-water legs.

Looks good Greg, I think I would probably do it that way next time.
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