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  #1  
Old 01-10-2012, 07:57 AM
Iluke Iluke is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hope Valley, Rhode Island
Posts: 170
Default Priming rack ideas?

I'm looking for good ideas for a priming rack. I'm setting up my shop, getting ready to start an RV-7, and I'd like to have something ready for spraying primer on parts that won't make a mess or aspyxiate me.

I have a nice, heated garage to work in, and I'm thinking of building some sort of expanded-metal table-top rig with a down draft blower exausting thorugh a hose to the outside.

Anyone have some good or bad expereince in this area? Specifically, what size surface do I need (i.e., what's the largest part I will need to spray?) Also, any thoughts on how much airflow will I need & what's the most cost effective source/type of fan?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2012, 08:03 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,888
Default

No real thoughts on the exhaust system, but a window screen with aluminum fabric is great for a work surface. No problems with small stuff falling through it & virtually no effect on spray patterns.

Charlie
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  #3  
Old 01-10-2012, 08:56 AM
flynwest flynwest is offline
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 398
Default chicken wire

Chicken wire sandwiched between 2X2's for the spray table. Mine was about 3' X 5' spay near the door with a fan blowing out.
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  #4  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:05 AM
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airguy airguy is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,590
Default

I took at 2x12 and wedged it between the floor and the ceiling (make sure you hit a ceiling joist runner, or you'll punch through the sheetrock) then screwed 1x2 runners horizontally to that, and used a brad nailer to put a few dozen finish nails in the 1x2's. Hang your parts on the finish nails and spray away.

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Last edited by airguy : 01-10-2012 at 09:07 AM.
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:13 AM
David Z David Z is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Thunder Bay Ontario
Posts: 771
Default Simple

Mine was made from mechanics wire hanging the parts off the forks on a fork-lift. My point is it doesn't need to be fancy, just something that works.
Anywhere that you can hang it, and you don't mind a bit of overspray. Kid's swing set on a nice day? Just use a chemical mask! Mine cost more than my spray gun.

I do like Greg's idea.
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Last edited by David Z : 01-10-2012 at 09:14 AM. Reason: added last sentence.
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  #6  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:14 AM
Iluke Iluke is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hope Valley, Rhode Island
Posts: 170
Default

Good ideas, thanks! Is the consensus that it is better to ahve parts hanging than laying down on a screen?
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:29 AM
Danny7 Danny7 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: central oregon
Posts: 1,089
Default

might be a little easier to have them hanging, but more importantly is to go and build your plane, not talk about priming

seriously, do a good job priming the bare al, do whatever you think best for the alclad and get building!
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2012, 11:08 AM
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selhardt selhardt is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 113
Default Simpler

I built a screen covered rack and never ended up using it. I found that I had to turn things any way so I just used cardboard on the floor (my car was outside any way :-))

I too built in my heated garage - I wore a respirator when I primed and cracked the big door in the winter and left it open in the summer. (How else are you going to have your neighbors tell you they'd never fly that thing).

I agree with Danny7, for i=1 to done, build and prime, don't fret too long.
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2012, 11:11 AM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
Default

I used a 12" axial flow duct booster, 2' X 5' plywood box, 1/2" hardware cloth, exhausted out a window, closed off remainder of open window. I also hung parts. I did not prime most alclad stuff. With 27 hrs on it, it has not corroded and fallen from the sky. It also turned my slow build into a quick build. Just depends on where it is based, how soon you want to finish, how much you want to spend and what you want to breathe into your lungs/absorb into your skin. Yes, I wore a respirator and nitrile gloves, but if you paint inside in the winter you will still have some residual in the air even with exhaust.
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  #10  
Old 01-10-2012, 02:10 PM
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Dan Langhout Dan Langhout is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Huntsville, AL USA
Posts: 611
Default My Solution



A bottom skin from my RV-7 wing gives the photo some scale. Mesh on top is "chicken wire" with about a 1/2" grid size. There is baffling in the box to settle out most of the overspray before it is drawn through a 20" square filter on the bottom by a fan strapped horizontally to the bottom of the table.

This seemed to take care of almost all of the actual overspray. What you can't see in the photo is an industrial exhaust fan through the wall above the table which takes care of ventilation and fumes.

I have used this setup for the last 5 years and found I could prime without getting paint overspray all over the shop. I had to resort to other means for some of the larger fuselage skins and really long parts but this took care of virtually everything else. It has been really nice being able to prime and paint pretty much at will without issues from weather, etc.
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Last edited by Dan Langhout : 11-12-2021 at 05:22 PM.
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