VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.


Go Back   VAF Forums > Model Specific > RV-7/7A
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-26-2006, 04:19 PM
tx_jayhawk tx_jayhawk is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 374
Default Fitting Tip-Up Canopy Skin to Frame?

I know lots of others have had this problem, but the canopy skin doesn't fit worth much. The gap at the corners is HUGE. I've done some searching to see what others have done, and I've seen some that use a single shim.

Based on the size of the gap currently, I need much more than a single shim. What have others with a huge gap done?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott
7A Finishing
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-26-2006, 04:57 PM
hevansrv7a's Avatar
hevansrv7a hevansrv7a is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,587
Default Clarification?

Are you talking about the gap between the forward canopy top skin and the arc of tubing below it, about 4" in from each edge?
__________________
H. Evan's RV-7A N17HH 240+ hours
"
We can lift ourselves out of ignorance, we can find ourselves as creatures of excellence and intelligence and skill. We can be free! We can learn to fly!" -J.L. Seagull
Paid $25.00 "dues" net of PayPal cost for 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 (December).
This airplane is for sale: see website. my website

Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-26-2006, 06:15 PM
tx_jayhawk tx_jayhawk is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 374
Default

yes. Sorry, should have been more specific. I am referring to the gap at the rear of the canopy skin between the tube (near the arc as you mention).

Thanks.

Scott
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-26-2006, 07:21 PM
scard's Avatar
scard scard is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,368
Default

My approach was, who cares. I left two rivets out and just put two -3 rivets to nowhere in the skin to fill the holes. I don't think the big gap is going to bother me a bit.
__________________
Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
VAF Advertiser
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-26-2006, 10:26 PM
RV7Guy's Avatar
RV7Guy RV7Guy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 3,000
Default Leave out rivets

Yeah, the fit sucks. Just leave out the rivets that would cause the skin to deform.

Underneath, I scuffed and cleaned the skin and tube and filled the area with epoxy and micro filler. Looks clean and finished this way and eliminates oil canning of the skin.

Makes me wonder why the tube frame can't be retooled for the proper arc.
__________________
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
www.JDair.com
RV-7 N717EE-Flying (Sold)
RV-7 N717AZ Painted and Complete
2021 Gold Lindy Grand Champion Kit Plane
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-27-2006, 08:03 AM
hevansrv7a's Avatar
hevansrv7a hevansrv7a is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,587
Default I did similar to Darwin

I filled the gap with JB Weld. If I was going to do it again, I'd use the stick type stuff from JB. The stick stuff comes in a concentric roll. You slice some off and knead it and let it harden. When I used the stuff in tubes it had a tendency to sag and run.

Just fill the gap and the holes. If you want to, you can drill and rivet or tap the JB after it's cured. I did see another builder make tapered, curved shims. Great craftsmanship, but could not be a better fit than a paste anyhow.
__________________
H. Evan's RV-7A N17HH 240+ hours
"
We can lift ourselves out of ignorance, we can find ourselves as creatures of excellence and intelligence and skill. We can be free! We can learn to fly!" -J.L. Seagull
Paid $25.00 "dues" net of PayPal cost for 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 (December).
This airplane is for sale: see website. my website

Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-29-2006, 10:18 PM
tx_jayhawk tx_jayhawk is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 374
Default

THanks all for the advice. Vans provided the same advice to fill it with an epoxy/micro mixture. Seems like there ought to be a better way, but whatever.

Another question on the fit. The pre-punched skin holes don't line up with the centerline of the round tube (at the rear of the frame). Drilling it as-is won't leave enough edge distance. I don't think bending that tube is the anwer, as I won't be able to get a length-wise offset due to the design. Any others encounter this?

I wonder if I have a terribly mis-shapen canopy frame. ; )

Scott
7A Finishing
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-30-2006, 04:37 AM
mike newall's Avatar
mike newall mike newall is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Yorkshire, England
Posts: 2,196
Default

I think to be fair to Van's, they achieve a huge amount without resorting to any compound curves.

This area is where a lot of angle changing is going on and we have the same gap - we tried a rivet but the buckling was to much so we removed it and will fill later.

I guess this is one of the prices for design simplicity in 2 dimensions !
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-08-2012, 08:58 PM
scrollF4's Avatar
scrollF4 scrollF4 is offline
Moderator, Asst. Line Boy
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flower Mound, TX
Posts: 1,632
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7Guy View Post
Yeah, the fit sucks. Just leave out the rivets that would cause the skin to deform.

Underneath, I scuffed and cleaned the skin and tube and filled the area with epoxy and micro filler. Looks clean and finished this way and eliminates oil canning of the skin.

Makes me wonder why the tube frame can't be retooled for the proper arc.
RV7Guy (or any others that filled the gap with resin or JBWeld),
Got any pictures to show how you approached this? I've started the forward canopy frame build and the gap is HUGE! Figured I'd walk away and do some research before I tried bending metal in the frame.

For reference: RV-7A, tip-up
__________________
Scroll

Sid "Scroll" Mayeux, Col, USAF (ret)
52F NW Regional/Aero Valley Airport, Roanoke TX (home of DR's Van Cave)
"KELLI GIRL" N260KM RV-7A tipper
Catch her on YouTube's "Because I Fly!" channel

Exemption waived.
Proud and grateful 2021 -=VAF=- Contributor

PS: I am not an influencer. I have no influence. Just ask my kids.

Last edited by scrollF4 : 01-08-2012 at 09:01 PM. Reason: I can't spell...
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-08-2012, 10:19 PM
bruceh's Avatar
bruceh bruceh is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,511
Default

Here is what I did.


More pictures and dialog on what I did on my website under the Canopy section.
__________________
Bruce Hill
RV-9A N5771H flown over 900 hours!
http://www.overthehills.com/RV-9A-Project
APRS Tracking for KJ6YRP and Flying Over the Hills Blog
2021 VAF donator
EAA Tech Counselor, Pre Buys, Build assistance - canopy/tanks/fiberglass/electrical/repairs
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:44 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.