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  #11  
Old 01-03-2012, 05:39 PM
rvamateur rvamateur is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chandler, Arizona
Posts: 90
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I too had some concern about the screws pulling through a reduced glass thickness after you conuntersink so I put some carbon fiber in between the hinge and the door. Don't know if that will make any difference in the event of a door coming open and hope not to ever test it.
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  #12  
Old 01-03-2012, 06:21 PM
Gary 40274 Gary 40274 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Conyers GA
Posts: 347
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To my knowlege Door no screws have failed or loosened. There are many areas to improve things on the 10 kit but this maybe a solution looking for a problem to solve.

Gary Specketer
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  #13  
Old 01-03-2012, 07:17 PM
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David Shelton David Shelton is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Belvidere, IL
Posts: 169
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The bonded washers will probably work fine but bonding to metal can be a little tricky. My advice would be to put a lot of effort into surface preparations before you glue them in. Alternatively, there are some proven bonded fasteners on the market (Click Bond CG596, etc.) but they tend to be expensive.

I forgot where the carbon fiber is located on the door. In general, you want to make sure that you keep the carbon and metal apart to avoid corrosion. I'm not sure if this is a factor for the door handles.

Since your washers have a large flange, it might be possible to bond them in place, then put an additional ply of glass over them. You can fill them with clay, layup the glass, then knife trim the opening before it's fully cured.
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  #14  
Old 01-03-2012, 09:32 PM
fehdxl fehdxl is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bellevue, NE
Posts: 686
Default thanks!

Thanks for all the ideas guys. Heeding your advice, I'll skip the tinnerman washers. However, I might coat the inside the the countersink with some pure epoxy...the epoxy should be tougher and more wear resistant than pink fiberglass by itself. Thanks again, -Jim
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