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  #11  
Old 12-27-2011, 12:13 AM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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The number 1reason rivets clinch over is b/c the rivet is too long. The pics look like they may be longer than necessary here. All in pic 3 appear clinched. Don't be a slave to the rivet size callouts on the drawings. There will be many places where you will need to use one size larger or smaller than the dwg callouts. In case you haven't yet had the opportunity, a good build class would be time and money well spent given that you have a long build ahead of you. Good luck.
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  #12  
Old 12-27-2011, 12:27 AM
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RV7AJeremy RV7AJeremy is offline
 
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Default C-fram technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by DCat22 View Post
Side note...do you actually need the special base plate featured in that video? I wasn't sure of it's purpose, since you can put the same sets in the normal base plate too.
I think it depends on the c-frame manufacture. I believe that the avery c-frame requires a separate modified base plate/special insert; I got my c-frame from Cleveland tools didn't require anything special. You could probably call avery if you have their c-frame, I have had nothing but great experience when dealing with both avery and cleveland. You will need the 12" back-riveting set though.

There is a a little insert/sleeve that goes into the hole, I think it protects the rivet sets. Shoot me a pm with your email address and I can take some pictures up close if you want.
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  #13  
Old 12-27-2011, 06:23 AM
HBpilot HBpilot is offline
 
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Location: Ocala, FL
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Thank you all for your input.
I actually took an EAA class last year. But we mostly used the rivet gun and the hand squeezer. We didn't learn how to use the pneumatic squeezer to its best.
I was just wondering if hand squeezing (with not the best hand squeezer out there), or bucking was the best option. All these rivets were hand squeezed, but required a lot of pressure. They would start to bend sideway early on in the process. One poster mentioned that it might have been too long of a rivet, which is actually the question I asked myself when I first put the rivet in place. It calls for a 470AD4-7. Can anybody remember using a shorter one ?
Anyway, I think I will drill them out, but I am looking for the best technique to use here.
Thanks once again for taking the time to answer.
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  #14  
Old 12-27-2011, 08:50 AM
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Adam Wright Adam Wright is offline
 
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I was having some frustration with my pneumatic squeezer not squeezing rivets fully. I tried many different combination of squeezer sets and ram height. Come to find out while my regulator was set at 90psi, I was getting less than that at the end of the hose for some reason.

Double check your air psi at the end of the hose!
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  #15  
Old 12-27-2011, 09:23 AM
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aarvig aarvig is offline
 
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I would drill the toppled ones out and set them with a rivet gun and bucking bar. This is how I set mine and it worked like a charm. Finish the rivets that aren't set well enough the same way.
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  #16  
Old 12-27-2011, 10:25 AM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBpilot View Post
They would start to bend sideway early on in the process. One poster mentioned that it might have been too long of a rivet, which is actually the question I asked myself when I first put the rivet in place.
So long as the rivet squeezer is square to the rivet while squeezing, they shouldn't clinch over. The fact that they are bending right away is even more of a clue that the rivets are too long. Three solutions:
1. Pick up a rivet gauge that shows how much rivet needs to protrude prior to squeezing. My Cleaveland gauge does this. Eventually your eye will tell you without the gauge.
2. Buy a $10.00 rivet cutter. That way, you can turn a 470-4-7 to a 470-4-6.5. There will be MANY places in the build where you will need to do this.
3. Try a shorter one and measure the the shop head when done. Sometimes you just need to experiment.
Hope this helps.
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  #17  
Old 12-27-2011, 12:05 PM
HBpilot HBpilot is offline
 
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Got them all out without damage and will buck them.
The only thing I don't understand...is why would I have to make them shorter than somebody else ?
Thank you all for the help.

Last edited by HBpilot : 12-27-2011 at 12:52 PM.
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  #18  
Old 12-27-2011, 01:36 PM
WAM120RV WAM120RV is offline
 
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Default Problem

Here is the problem.... if you drill them out the holes will be oversize and this will only help the next set of rivets bend over. From what I can see in the photos several of these could be driven straight by someone skilled with a rivet gun.

If you do drill them I would first drill about 3/16 into the rivet with an undersize drill, then take the head off with an 1/8 drill, then tap the rivet out with an undersize punch. Less chance of making the hole out of round that way.

Even after building 2 RV's I get the occasional rivet go astray so keep at it!!
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