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  #1  
Old 12-12-2011, 09:52 PM
330Jock 330Jock is offline
 
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Default Using an engraver

I just read a post about using an engraver to mark all the parts before priming so it will be readable after cleaning and priming. Isn't that a no no? I thought any scratches etc., could lead to stress cracks. Someone please hep me out here.
Bill
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2011, 11:09 PM
lorne green lorne green is offline
 
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My understanding is that using an engraver is OK. Magnifying the engraving shows a line of small indentations...the surface is not being scratched.
Take a look at QB wings. The wing root spars are engraved at the factory. Engraving an identifying code to the parts to be primed is a good idea.
It is a little tricky tying to i-dent the parts after the stickers are off.
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Last edited by lorne green : 12-13-2011 at 04:20 AM.
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2011, 04:35 AM
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marchudson marchudson is offline
 
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Bill

Welcome to the forums.

Not saying that the engraving method is wrong or right but that it is a lot of extra work when a sharpie works just fine. I used a black sharpie and the ID was readable through the primer. If it isn't, maybe a little too much primer was being applied. Try it out on a scratch piece.

Hope this helps.
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  #4  
Old 12-13-2011, 05:13 AM
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Got2Fly Got2Fly is offline
 
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I agree with using the sharpie. It works very well for me, and I tend to use it liberally. If' I'm match drilling holes and get interrupted, I mark where I left off so I don't miss any holes. When disassembling after match drilling, I use it to mark where parts go to make re-assembly easier.
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  #5  
Old 12-13-2011, 06:08 AM
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flytoboat flytoboat is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 330Jock View Post
I just read a post about using an engraver to mark all the parts before priming so it will be readable after cleaning and priming. Isn't that a no no? I thought any scratches etc., could lead to stress cracks. Someone please hep me out here.
Bill
I am not close to my instructions to give you a reference, but Van's instructions does allow using a vibrating engraver.
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  #6  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:46 AM
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RV7Ron RV7Ron is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flytoboat View Post
I am not close to my instructions to give you a reference, but Van's instructions does allow using a vibrating engraver.
Agreed, Van's endorses it and the wing spars are engraved. I bought a cheap one from Harbor Freight and it works great, and frankly doesnt take any longer than using a sharpie since I keep it handy at the workbench. Personal preference...but its safe to do. And welcome!
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  #7  
Old 12-13-2011, 08:08 AM
330Jock 330Jock is offline
 
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Thanks guys!
Bill
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  #8  
Old 12-13-2011, 12:58 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Also, a sharpie will *not* survive the clean/acid etch/alodine process. Which is more work than primer, but according to those who have done real world testing in a salt water bath, will provide the same protection as epoxy primer with effectively unmeasurable increase in weight.

Charlie
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  #9  
Old 12-13-2011, 01:09 PM
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Space Cadet Space Cadet is offline
 
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Default Solvent wipes

Sharpie also will not survive a good solvent wipe, which should be done before primer is applied. Or you have to apply twice- once when first building/assembling the part, then again right after wiping clean prior to priming.

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  #10  
Old 12-13-2011, 06:30 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Small card tags on strings work, too. Like a Sharpie, you need to remove it for cleaning or priming. Unlike Sharpies or engraving, you remove them before final assembly. And unlike engraving, there's no chance of harming the part.

The collection of used tags is a reference to what is finally assembled.

The downsides to these are that they can infrequently fall off, or get mutilated, and once they are off, there's no indication that the part has any identification.

Pros and cons - but at least there is a third approach to the issue.

Dave
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