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12-04-2011, 07:55 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Ramon, CA
Posts: 402
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Riveting the Forward Skin in the Gear Towers
Hi all,
After about a year of wiring and potschkying, I started riveting on the front fuselage skin. Definitely some interesting reaches the the bucking. We got to the gear towers and stood their with a collective head scratch. With all the wires and controls and fuel vent tubing, I am not quite sure how we are going to get these rivets bucked. Ditto some of the ones right next the to rear baggage bulkhead.
Has anyone else had this issue? Got any tricks? Did anyone eventually surrender and end up using cherrymax blind rivets?
Scratching head
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
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12-04-2011, 08:40 AM
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VAF Moderator / Line Boy
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 12,256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwynn
Has anyone else had this issue? Got any tricks? Did anyone eventually surrender and end up using cherrymax blind rivets?
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Do you mean that row that joins the top skin to the longeron, side skin, and top of the towers? Uh.....I can tell you that once it's painted, only an EXPERT (with a magnifying glass) will tell that you used Cherry's instead of driven rivets.
__________________
Paul F. Dye
Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
http://Ironflight.com
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12-04-2011, 01:00 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight
Do you mean that row that joins the top skin to the longeron, side skin, and top of the towers? Uh.....I can tell you that once it's painted, only an EXPERT (with a magnifying glass) will tell that you used Cherry's instead of driven rivets.
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Ditto - structural blind rivets in mine too!
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12-04-2011, 02:35 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Friendswood, TX
Posts: 68
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tungsten bucking bar
I used a thin tungsten bucking bar. I believe I used my 3/4"x1-1/2"x2" bar. Its still a tight fit but doable. You have to hold the bar at a slight angle and roll the bar level with the surface as the rivet is driven. Sounds awkward but pretty easy to do.
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12-04-2011, 10:40 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Marion, MA
Posts: 236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaTango
I used a thin tungsten bucking bar. I believe I used my 3/4"x1-1/2"x2" bar. Its still a tight fit but doable. You have to hold the bar at a slight angle and roll the bar level with the surface as the rivet is driven. Sounds awkward but pretty easy to do.
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I was able to buck them using this same combination. Almost every hole with solid rivets but one.
__________________
Dave "WS" Rogers
RV-8 N173DR
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12-04-2011, 10:45 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,412
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It was cheaper for me to use Cherrys than buy a special bucking bar.
They went in perfect and I moved on to the next project.
__________________
Scott Emery
http://gallery.eaa326.org/v/members/semery/
EAA 668340, chapter 326 & IAC chapter 67
RV-8 N89SE first flight 12/26/2013
Yak55M, and the wife has an RV-4
There is nothing-absolute nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing around with Aeroplanes
(with apologies to Ratty)
2019
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12-04-2011, 11:53 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Ramon, CA
Posts: 402
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What size rivets
What size and type rivets did you use? These need to be structural. Cherry makes a 3/32 countersunk but the cherry measuring device only fits into 1/8th holes so I am a little unsure what size/length/type would be most appropriate.
Thanks,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
Last edited by mlwynn : 12-05-2011 at 12:35 AM.
Reason: Message less that clear
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12-05-2011, 01:01 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwynn
What size and type rivets did you use? These need to be structural. Cherry makes a 3/32 countersunk but the cherry measuring device only fits into 1/8th holes so I am a little unsure what size/length/type would be most appropriate.
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CR3214-4-4, if you need some right away, I have a bunch. PM me or email me at chriswelsh@sbcglobal.net.
-Chris
__________________
Chris
RV-8 Wings
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12-05-2011, 05:46 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 2,346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwynn
What size and type rivets did you use? These need to be structural....
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Michael,
Reworking #40 holes to accept larger diameter 1/8" flush Cherry rivets is quite easy. Here are two older posts that describe in words and pictures the ease and utility of using 1/8" structural blind Cherry rivets to replace AD3 solid rivets in difficult or impossible to reach areas:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...3&postcount=12
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...22&postcount=3
__________________
Rick Galati
RV6A N307R"Darla!"
RV-8 N308R "LuLu"
EAA Technical Counselor
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12-05-2011, 06:00 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,500
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Doesn't cure your current problem, but for the benefit of those that follow......rivet the skin on before you add the plumbing and wires.
Honestly, I have no idea why folks don't finish structure before rigging, other than it's what they heard they should do. I've done two "skin on" and it's not hard. The most recent was completely painted inside and out.
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
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