VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.

  #1  
Old 11-30-2011, 08:35 PM
Phil's Avatar
Phil Phil is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
Default Moving door pin holes....

Has anyone had success moving their door pin holes?

I drilled one of mine earlier and after all was said and done, the aft hole for the door shifted inboard about 1/16". I'd really like the door to sit as close to flush as possible so I don't make any additional work for myself. As it stands right now, I'd have to add quite a bit of filler to build-up the door and that would be enough to cover the tops of the screws holding the plastic pin guides in the door.

My thought is to go ahead and oval the hole in the bulk head enough to bring the door flush, then rivet a doubler plate with the properly sized 7/16" hole on the backside of the oval. Of course it would be the same thickness as bulkhead. I have plenty of pin extension to pull it off.
  • Has anyone done this successfully?
  • Are there any other techniques out there that I haven't thought of?
  • I'm assuming the door pin holes must be a tight fit (minimal slop) and that slightly enlarging the hole (without the doubler idea) is a bad idea?
Thanks,
Phil

Last edited by Phil : 11-30-2011 at 09:21 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-30-2011, 10:24 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,564
Default Aluminum Door Pin Guides

If you use the aftermarket aluminum pin guides you'll have more than enough material to cover an oval hole.
In fact, those pin guides allow you to get the hole precisely where you want it regardless of where you drilled the first hole

__________________
Ernst Freitag
RV-8 finished (sold)
RV-10 IO-540 8.5:1
Running on 91 Octane E10 mogas since 2011
Don't believe everything you know.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-30-2011, 10:24 PM
flion's Avatar
flion flion is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,708
Default

I'm not sure if I'm picturing the problem correctly, but if you've mis-drilled through the fiberglass, why not just fill it with flox and re-drill it?
__________________
Patrick Kelley - Flagstaff, AZ
RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
http://www.mykitlog.com/flion/
EAA Technical Counselor #5357
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-30-2011, 10:50 PM
Phil's Avatar
Phil Phil is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flion View Post
I'm not sure if I'm picturing the problem correctly, but if you've mis-drilled through the fiberglass, why not just fill it with flox and re-drill it?
Glass and the bulkhead behind it. The pins protrude through both.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-30-2011, 10:54 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567
Default

The blocks like Ernst showed are better. Use with the magnetic bullet ends. I can't imagine the oblong inboard will matter. You will be against your seal anyway which will force your door against the outward edge of the hole.
__________________
Actual repeat offender.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-01-2011, 11:43 AM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,564
Default

If you decide to install those aluminum door pin guides you can install them just a tiny bit too far inward.
This will allow you to micro fit the door in the end when all the seals are installed.
you simply elongate the hole a little bit at the time toward the outside
until you are happy with the fit. Don't forget, rubbing bare aluminum against bare aluminum creates a lot of friction and applying grease may not be what you want before painting but get a snug fit and try a little grease
the result will be a smooth acting door mechanism.
__________________
Ernst Freitag
RV-8 finished (sold)
RV-10 IO-540 8.5:1
Running on 91 Octane E10 mogas since 2011
Don't believe everything you know.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-01-2011, 11:56 AM
Phil's Avatar
Phil Phil is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
Default

Ernst,

You're going to have to fill us in on your technique to get such a nice transition between the cabintop and the fuselage structure...

Did you fill it will balloons, then overlay with glass, then fill the weave with balloons again? That's really nice.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-01-2011, 03:38 PM
TroyBranch's Avatar
TroyBranch TroyBranch is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary Alberta Canada
Posts: 457
Default

Just sand down the bock on the door. The door will come right in.
__________________
Troy Branch

RV10 Built and Flying Since Feb 2009
950hrs Plus
CC EX-2 Flying
SuperSTOL Built and Sold
RV9 Built and Sold
Avid Aerobat Built and Sold
Dues paid Nov 2019
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:21 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.