Canopy Interior Fiberglass Prep Work

[9GT]

Originally Posted by CharlieWaffles

Recommendations for sandpaper grit post epoxy layer?

Cloth backed Zirconia works about the best we found for glass work from 36 grit for bonding and lay-up prep up to 220 for pre-prime finish. The stuff lasts forever and is available in sheets, rolls. discs, and belts. We get ours here: http://supergrit.com/

[fehdxl]

Originally Posted by CharlieWaffles

I'm using a power finger sander (a 1/2" wide belt) for the initial contouring.

What type of finger sander? One like this?

Originally Posted by CharlieWaffles

What high build filler would anyone recommend?

I'm using PPG ShopLine JP202 with JH301 activator. So far, I've only used it a little, but I like it thus far.

-Jim

[rleffler]

Originally Posted by CharlieWaffles

Bill, I plan to use the Mcmaster seals. What did you use to determine how much to cut on the door opening? Just remove all the curve?

If you sort through Ivan's Kristensen's phanfare phot site, he's got a great video in which he shows a ruler around the various parts of the rain gutter. You'll probably will take off more than you initial think, or at least that was the case for me.

If you don't already have them, get Sean's (planearound.com) replacement mounts for the struts. You'll want to mount these before you adhere Geoff's overhead panel to the cabin cover. It will make your life much easier with the McMaster seals.

I used a filler with fiberglass fibers to transition from the overhead to the cabin cover. It is much stronger than micro. In retrospect, I'm not sure it's better. It was significantly more difficult to sand smooth. I like using UCB auto body icing. It's easier to work with than micro in my opinion. But either will work.

As far as the overhead itself goes, I just used some Loehle Wonder-Fil. A little goes a very long way, especially since the pin holes aren't that bad on the carbon.

I wouldn't recommend the belt sander on the overhead. I did use mine quite a bit to sand down the gutter for the seals. You can use a DA on the larger areas, but there aren't many of those around the overhead. I ended up, or I should say, my wife ended up using sandpaper and a dense foam sponge to do most of the sanding around the door frame and overhead.

I have more photos and details on mykitlog site. You'll notice that I didn't do anything with the rear of the overhead. Since I'm putting in Geoff's headliner, there is no use to finish that edge all the way to the back.

bob

[Bill.Peyton]

I tried searching Ivan's site, but could not find the photos Bob was referring to. I know they are there, but did not see them right away. You will need approx. .5 to .75" of flat area for the seal to install over. All of the curve needs to be removed. Use multiple layers of 6 oz. cloth on the opposite side to reinforce the door frame since you remove the material from the other side. You can purchase these in precut strips from west marine. After the you get close, then fit the doors in place. You will need them there to finalize the depth of the door frame and also the thickness. The seal does not need to be completely flattened when the door is shut. I suggest you purchase the center door latch from Planearound.com. Sean's latch is great for this seal. I actually was able to install the latch prior to closing the doors halves. I posted below the only photo that I took regarding the door edge and also the door seal installed. If you want to discuss, call me 314 605 7744. I also used the PPG JH202 high build primer then followed with a PPG DP epoxy sealer, then the color. Install the console after you get the doors and seals fit. Like Bob said, make sure you have the hinges installed and use Seans hinges, they will not require a spacer like I have shown in my photo.

[CharlieWaffles]

Originally Posted by Bill.Peyton

Install the console after you get the doors and seals fit. Like Bob said, make sure you have the hinges installed and use Seans hinges, they will not require a spacer like I have shown in my photo.

So does that mean you would recommend not installing and painting the canopy until after the door stage?

[Phil]

That's what I'm doing.

Finish the doors and hinging them. Then fit the doors with the seals. Once everything has been fitted with the seals to the cabin top, remove them, finish the cabin top, install the vertical bar, install the overhead console, finish again, then paint.

That way you aren't disturbing a painted surface.

Phil

[CharlieWaffles]

Originally Posted by fehdxl

What type of finger sander? One like this?
-Jim

Pretty close - http://www.harborfreight.com/air-belt-sander-97055.html

[rleffler]

Originally Posted by Phil

That's what I'm doing.

Finish the doors and hinging them. Then fit the doors with the seals. Once everything has been fitted with the seals to the cabin top, remove them, finish the cabin top, install the vertical bar, install the overhead console, finish again, then paint.

That way you aren't disturbing a painted surface.

Phil

As Phil mentioned, cleco the cabin cover to the fuselage and install the bolts in the door openings to secure the cabin cover from moving.

Then fit your doors. You are going to make a mess with triming for the doors and seals. If the interior isn't finished, you can't screw it up.

Once your doors are fit (with all the appropriate latches), then disassemble and take the cabon cover off. With the cabin cover off and upside down on a work bench, then you can easily work on the overhead installation. It's a whole lot easier doing it this way.

I highly recommend both Sean's center door latch and hinge for the gas strut. Also check out the height of your hinges. Most folks find that they need to take off about 1/6" or so to not have them sit proud of the cabin top. Ivan also shows some photos of using a router to lower the hinge area a bit.

Once you have the interior side finished to your liking, put it back on the fuselage.

For those looking for Ivan's dimensions, if you look at his door section, on the second or third page of his photos, there is a video there in which he walks around with a ruler. It's fairly hidden and you have to look close to find it. I was include a link, but that site is filtered here at work. I'm sure it's listed on VAF too if you do a search. This subject seems to come up quarterly.

[Bill.Peyton]

What Bob said! Paint last, after everything fits perfect, seals, doors, trim, overhead, trim front glass, trim the side glass. The cabin cover makes a real mess of everything everywhere.
Bill

[CharlieWaffles]

Are you sanding the door posts by hand for the contour? A lot of things I read said not touse hands, but rubber blocks. Just not sure how to get a stiff block around that door shape.