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  #11  
Old 11-22-2011, 10:09 AM
ecurington ecurington is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Melbourne Florida
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Default Reamed the Bushing Stick Base Was Good

Page 39-8 step 1 says it may be necessary to ream the bushing (brass?) to fit the AN 4 bolt. I had too. No mention of a need to ream the hole in the stick base. Mine fit fine if I recall correctly.

Eulice
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  #12  
Old 11-22-2011, 10:27 AM
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CharlieWaffles CharlieWaffles is offline
 
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I am referring to the stick base itself WD-1011 (Step 1, Page 39-8). The issue is the brass bushing doesn't slide into the base even once the powder coating is removed. I spoke with vans and they said to ream the hole - which is 3/8" size.
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  #13  
Old 11-22-2011, 10:35 AM
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Phil Phil is offline
 
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Yeah, I reamed it. Don't drill it.

Phil

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  #14  
Old 11-23-2011, 11:03 AM
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CharlieWaffles CharlieWaffles is offline
 
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Ok, I went to Vans and yes indeed, it was a case of undersize hole on the stick base and slight oversize on the bearings. So I went and got some NICE chuckable reaming bits from a local machining shop. I reamed the bushings to 1/4" and they were a lot more consistent on the inner diameter than the drill did initially.

I then reamed the two 3/8" tubes on the stick bases. A little smoke, but not as much and I kept it well oiled. I had to grind/sand down the base slightly so the busing actually was longer than the base. On one, even after reaming it to 3/8" the bushing still wouldnt insert smoothly. So I carefully "polished" it on the scotchbrite wheel to very slightly reduce the other diameter to allow it to insert into the base.

It just took more machining to get it all to work, but it did. I had to clean and reprime part of the stick base as the powder coat either cooked off from the initial ream attempt or from the size fitting work. But they are mounted and move freely around the bushing now.
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  #15  
Old 11-23-2011, 06:36 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Education and recreation....now you know a drill bit is entirely the wrong tool for this task

I'd suggest that every builder should own 0.1875, 0.250, and 0.375 reamers.

The stick is a welded assembly. The pivot tube would typically be fabricated from 1/2" dia x .065 wall tube, meaning the ID is a nominal 0.370". After welding it would be reamed to 0.375" for a bushing. Reaming increases the bore size and corrects any warpage due to welding.
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  #16  
Old 11-23-2011, 07:16 PM
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CharlieWaffles CharlieWaffles is offline
 
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What's funny is one Vans tech said to use a drill bit, the other that walked by said, "oh, you need to ream that, a drill is too aggressive" and walked on. The first tech said, "nah, you can drill it just fine".
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  #17  
Old 11-23-2011, 07:40 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Another thought is a set of adjustable hand reamers. They work pretty good for match fitting bushings and close tolerance holes. At least they don't make triangular holes.
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  #18  
Old 11-23-2011, 07:59 PM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
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Default Ream

Keep in mind that AN bolts have a manufacturing tolerance. The upper limit is still under the fractional size. The reamer I use for my landing gear bolts is .3095 or .003 under 5/16. All smaller AN bolts are similar. Drills are a no/no in my shop for enlarging holes, especially for a bushing that it appears should be a light press fit. NAS bolts will be slightly larger than AN bolts, so if a fit is just slightly loose you may be able to correct it with a NAS bolt. The expansion reamers are very fragile and easy to break, especially in a welded bushing. It would have been much better to chuck the bushing in a drill press and file/polish it down to fit, one end at a time.
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  #19  
Old 11-23-2011, 09:41 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Quote:
The expansion reamers are very fragile and easy to break,
Sorta fragile, but you can match a lot of holes before you break one (if you're careful). Upside is you can choose exactly how you want it to fit without having to buy (and wait for) specific sizes.
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  #20  
Old 11-24-2011, 09:08 AM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
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Default BUSHING

Expansion reamers work very well under many circumstances. When welding an assembly such as the stick bushing it is very easy to get in a hurry, cool the weld too rapidly, and air harden at least part of the bushing. A straight flute, high speed steel reamer, with the proper lubricant and driven at a very slow speed, can cope with the air hardened spots. An expansion reamer probably not.
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