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  #11  
Old 11-10-2011, 07:01 PM
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GAHco GAHco is offline
 
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Cool Special Tip!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
The only thing about rivnuts is that if they ever get loose, they will start to spin and you will have to cut the screw off to get it out...those things have caused many to lose their religion!!
Clean the area that will be under the Rivnut's head.
Make sure its really clean. Then put a little bit of higher strength Loctite just under the rivnut head just before you pull/set it. it works great after curing.
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  #12  
Old 11-11-2011, 06:22 AM
rvbuilder1 rvbuilder1 is offline
 
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Default Rivnut spinning

I just installed my upper faiings and used a bit of JB weld around the rivnut before pulling. Works great. (let it cure for a day before putting screw in
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  #13  
Old 11-11-2011, 08:04 AM
hudgin hudgin is offline
 
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They are made for flush mount also. Though you need to counter sink the metal or dimple it. But it sounds like you came up wit a remidy.
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2011, 10:08 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Considering that the upper intersection fairing requires fewer inspection/removal, rivnuts may work just as well but putting a bit of extra work and adding nut plates will assure long lasting way of doing this. In reality, it is not all that much work to remove the seat floor when you consider how worse it could be if the other method gives up.
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  #15  
Old 03-27-2012, 06:56 AM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Sorry to bring an old thread back. I'm curious what Chad ended up going with. I have an "A" and just fitted the Van's intersection fairings last night. Ish. Looks like one attach point is between the main spars. No way I can get in there to put a nutplate in.

Wouldn't mind seeing some pictures from other "A" people.

Also, wouldn't mind leaving the hangar key under the mat and coming in a day or so later to find out that a bunch of VAFers stopped over to do this for me.
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  #16  
Old 03-27-2012, 07:52 AM
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I used rivnuts on my 9A. Turned a long painful 2 man job into a one hour one man job. Spinning rivnuts not a problem especially when you use the keyed ones. They don't need to be flush. The fairing covers all that without issue.

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  #17  
Old 03-27-2012, 09:47 AM
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cln1owner cln1owner is offline
 
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Bob,

This is what I did. These are RV-bits intersection fairings, so I'm not sure how the Vans ones compare in size.

The forward attach point clears the main gear weldment, and the aft attach point is just behind the the center box rivet line. Both are very accessable to install platenuts, although it was a two person job to get them riveted.



When the time comes to mate the wings, I'll install a platenut in the wing fairing at about this location.
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  #18  
Old 03-27-2012, 02:04 PM
N15JB N15JB is offline
 
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Location: Denver
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Bob,

If the -7A is anything like the -10, there is a way to mount a nutplate between the main spar. Use your nutplate jig to drill all 3 holes from the outside, then starting from above the spar thread a wire through the center hole. I used a piece of welding wire, but a coat hanger will probably work also. Drop a nutplate over the wire from above. It will now be in approximately the correct position. Use a magnet from below to move the nutplate in final position, cleco one of the rivet holes, use a pull rivet to anchor the other rivet hole, remove the cleco and rivet the second leg of the nutplate. Takes a bit of fiddling, but it can be done.

Jim Berry
RV10
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  #19  
Old 03-27-2012, 04:13 PM
RV9A Bill RV9A Bill is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lawton, OK
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Default Nutplates for intersection fairings

Some have put the nutplates on the bottom or outside of the fuselage
Skin. The intersection fairing gives plenty of depth to work with.
RV9A Bill
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  #20  
Old 03-27-2012, 08:36 PM
alcladrv alcladrv is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southeast
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Since the forward fuselage skin is pretty thick, I just drilled and tapped threaded holes for a #6 screw. So far good, as in the screws haven't backed out. Other attach holes on the wing fairing got nutplates.

I figured I'd just drill out the tapped holes for nutplates when the threads strip out, which hasn't happened over the past year of service on my -7A.

Mike
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