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  #11  
Old 10-30-2011, 04:40 PM
alcladrv alcladrv is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Southeast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl J. Niedermeyer View Post
Here is a pic showing the cowl on the ground, and an in-flight pic showing the bowing out of the aft part of the cowl (attached with hinges). My RV-8 has over 1000 hrs on it.

That's what mine looks like inflight on my -7A with 700 hrs. on it. I just thought if there's any benefit from reworking it that was worthwhile, I'd work toward that, but it sounds like a bunch of work for next to no gain.

Thanks for all your input,

Mike
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  #12  
Old 10-31-2011, 08:30 AM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Location: Battleground
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The simple fix. The hinge pin is undersized to allow it to feed through the arc of the cowl down the sides. You can use the correct size pin for the hinge (sorry don't have plans and can't remember what size that is). Lay the hinge pin on the cowling and mark the area where the curve of the cowling starts down. Chuck up the pin in a drill and taper the pin with a belt or disk sander while spinning it in the drill. This makes a tapered hinge pin that will feed through the corner but still hold the hinge in alignment on the top. No more top lifting up.
My buddy did this on a couple of eights and it works well.
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  #13  
Old 10-31-2011, 09:54 AM
alcladrv alcladrv is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
The simple fix. The hinge pin is undersized to allow it to feed through the arc of the cowl down the sides. You can use the correct size pin for the hinge (sorry don't have plans and can't remember what size that is). Lay the hinge pin on the cowling and mark the area where the curve of the cowling starts down. Chuck up the pin in a drill and taper the pin with a belt or disk sander while spinning it in the drill. This makes a tapered hinge pin that will feed through the corner but still hold the hinge in alignment on the top. No more top lifting up.
My buddy did this on a couple of eights and it works well.
This simple fix sounds like the optimum fix. I will give it a try.

Thanks,

Mike
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  #14  
Old 10-31-2011, 09:00 PM
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Snowflake Snowflake is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Oldguy View Post
Hey sorry to hear about your pin door Snowflake. I do not know how it is latched shut but sounds like the door it's self needs to be stiffer. I really have no bulging at all on the back of my cowling. The little door makes pin installation a breeze and most people never notice my little door. It can be made to work correctly and worth the effort.
My door is "latched" with a single countersunk screw through roughly the center of the door, that goes into a nutplate on the back of a 1/8" thick by 1/2" wide aluminium bar that crosses the opening. The bar makes it hard to get into the opening to grab the piano wires, and the location of the screw doesn't adequately seal the door. It looks like it was done as an afterthought, and not to the quality standard that the rest of the plane received.

It's not changing though, so i've resolved to let it be until such time as I overhaul the engine. I expect i'll be making enough changes at that time that I may want a new cowling anyway...
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  #15  
Old 11-01-2011, 12:39 AM
Stoo Stoo is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: LL10, Naperville, IL.
Posts: 68
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Rather than tapering the correct size pin for the hinge, use the thin pin but slide some thin walled SS tubing over the horizontal part. Small Parts has lots of sizes, the .094 ID by .120 OD 304 SS hypodermic tubing would probably work.

Stewart Willoughby
6, finishing.
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  #16  
Old 11-01-2011, 01:08 AM
PIN 37 PIN 37 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Adelaide Australia
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Friend of mine used heat shrink on the horizontal part of the pin. worked a treat and has not been replaced in 200 hrs.
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  #17  
Old 11-01-2011, 12:14 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoo View Post
Rather than tapering the correct size pin for the hinge, use the thin pin but slide some thin walled SS tubing over the horizontal part. Small Parts has lots of sizes, the .094 ID by .120 OD 304 SS hypodermic tubing would probably work.

Stewart Willoughby
6, finishing.
Sounds like it might work. You can try it on your 6 as it will have the same issues if your going the hinge pin route. The taper pin is really simple and cheap to execute and I know it works but I am sure there is more than one way....
While your at it, beef up the area between the hinge pins where the oil door is with a couple additional layers of glass. This area pillows up on the 6.
Some day I am going to fix mine, but for now, I just fly it....
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RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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  #18  
Old 11-01-2011, 01:09 PM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
This area pillows up on the 6.
Some day I am going to fix mine, but for now, I just fly it....
and if you sit a little lower, you can't see it!
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Venice, FL
RV-6A. Mattituck TMX O-360, FP, GRT Sport EFIS, L3 Lynx NGT-9000
N164WM
N184WM reserved (RV-8)....finishing kit in progress. Titan IOX-370
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