Simple, cheap and effective control locks.

[frazitl]

One controls movement at the stick or in the cabin, and the other controls movement at the control surface. I strongly prefer the second method. Controls in the cabin allow the wind to "work" all the joints and components of the control system all the way to the stick or rudder pedals. Over time, this just adds unnecessary wear to all these parts.

I hate sloppy controls..

[airguy]

Originally Posted by pierre smith

I always use an old, easily memorized checklist....CIGARTIP

Controls...free and correct.
Instruments..alt set ,trim etc
Gas..correct tank..fuel pump...quantity
Altimeter set
Runup...mags..oil pressure, etc

Trim...set for takeoff..(very important in the -10)
Interior...doors , belts fastened
Prop...pitch set forward for takeoff.

I suppose they could still be accidentally left on so add a red streamer if you need to,

Best,

I used this for years as well, until one day when I had a close call with a NORDO aircraft turning short final as I was about to take the runway. After that, I modified my routine slightly. Now after runup I check and verbalize, "Runway clear, final clear, controls free and clear" then take the runway. End result is the same - just make sure at some point "controls free and clear" enters the equation.

[pierre smith]

Originally Posted by humptybump

Great suggestions for DIY control locks for the elevator and ailerons !

Do you guys recomend the same for about the rudder?

Yes, in all but the -10...it's too tall to reach. I use a T made of PVC that locks against the pedals in the cockpit. I'd really rather have a lock on top of the fin/rudder but it takes a small two-step stool to reach.

Best,

[rubber314chicken]

Originally Posted by pierre smith

Yes, in all but the -10...it's too tall to reach. I use a T made of PVC that locks against the pedals in the cockpit. I'd really rather have a lock on top of the fin/rudder but it takes a small two-step stool to reach.

Best,

Why not have an extended piece like what you used to connect the lock to the aileron attack bracket that can serve as a sort of handle to lift it high enough?

[humptybump]

Thanks everyone. I guess I know what my next rainy day project will be !:-)

[ron sterba]

Looks like its raining with lots of clouds. MUST BE OREGON!

[pierre smith]

Originally Posted by rubber314chicken

Why not have an extended piece like what you used to connect the lock to the aileron attack bracket that can serve as a sort of handle to lift it high enough?

I've been mulling that around a bit and may still figure something simple out,

Best,

[Vlad]

I am experimenting with PVC pipes. This locks pedals and stick but elevators are fully deflected. Is it a good idea?





When I left aircraft unattended for two days in TN, I used zip ties to secure the fitting to the stick just in case.

[Av8torTom]

Hey Vlad,

Looks good. How about if you hing the other half of that PCV pipe you have on the stick so that it swings around the whole stick then secures with a wing-nut? That way you could shorten the pipe from the rudder pedals to the stick and get the elevators in the neutral position - and you won't need the zip ties.

Something like this? - Course then you'd need something similar on the rudder pedals...

[kentb]

Originally Posted by Av8torTom

Hey Vlad,

Looks good. How about if you hing the other half of that PCV pipe you have on the stick so that it swings around the whole stick then secures with a wing-nut? That way you could shorten the pipe from the rudder pedals to the stick and get the elevators in the neutral position - and you won't need the zip ties.

Something like this? - Course then you'd need something similar on the rudder pedals...

Without the stick being in the full back position, nothing would be pushing on the rudder peddles. The ruder could flop around.

Kent