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  #1  
Old 09-26-2011, 07:35 AM
Jim Ellis's Avatar
Jim Ellis Jim Ellis is offline
 
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Default Found: Welding Service for Aileron Pushrods

There are many discussions in the Forum archives regarding riveting versus welding the W-818 aileron pushrods (DWG-15A). When I built my -9A I used the aluminum rivets called out in the plans to retain the pushrod ends. That worked okay but I did have to make the hole in the rear spar larger to clear the rivet heads. I decided that this time for the -7A I am now building I would have the rod ends welded.

Because I don?t know how to weld and I don?t have any friends that do, I located a company in the Dallas/ Ft Worth area that specializes in just this kind of welding. The company is Aero Space Welders located in Grand Prairie, Texas and its head man is Josh Green. Josh welds certified parts for Lockheed Martin, Northrop Grumman and Bell Helicopter among other big iron builders.

As instructed by Josh, I cut the steel tubing to length, drilled two opposing 1/8 inch holes in the tubing and removed about one inch of the powder coating from the ends. As a side note I did cut the tubing to a slightly greater length than the plans call for. I cut them to 23 15/16 inches to get a few more threads into the rod end bearings.






Josh removed the cadmium plating from the rod ends to avoid toxic fumes and beveled the mating surface. He then welded the circumference of the rod ends to the tubing and made two rosette welds through the holes I had drilled.




I was very pleased with the results. The finished pushrods look great but will need the ends repainted. As to strength, I figure if they?re good enough for a helicopter thrashing they?re good enough for me!

If you would like to have this welding done send the prepared parts to Josh. He charges $50.00 for two pushrods plus the cost of return shipping back to you. This is the cost for non-certified parts. He can also provide certification papers if you need them for some reason but at a much higher price. You should call and discuss certification cost with him first. Keep in mind that the actual work performed is exactly the same whether the parts are certified or not.

Here is the contact information you need:

Aero Space Welders, Inc.
Josh Green, President
2470 Doreen Street
Grand Prairie, TX 75050
(972) 988-9121
www.aerospacewelders.com
email: joshgreen@aerospacewelders.com

Just for clarification I have no interest in or connection to this company. But I do like to pass on what I have learned to others who may be searching for this kind of help. Josh is a good guy and easy to work with?.besides you don?t have to lie and tell him the parts are for your lawn mower!
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Last edited by Jim Ellis : 07-19-2017 at 08:00 AM. Reason: Repaired broken photo links.
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  #2  
Old 09-26-2011, 08:27 AM
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SeanB SeanB is offline
 
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Default Question

Jim,

Looks like nice work. I had the same performed locally and am happy with the decision. I think I paid more than $50.00.

Question: What is a good protective treatment for the threaded end since the cadmium is now removed?
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  #3  
Old 09-26-2011, 09:44 AM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Default

My (limited) understanding is that aviation welds should not be ground. Interesting that a certificated shop used a grinder on your pushrods. Makes them look nice, however.
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  #4  
Old 09-26-2011, 11:56 AM
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Russ McCutcheon Russ McCutcheon is offline
 
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Default

Sorry guys I just saw this thread, I?m not going to comment about the parts pictured but after welding one set of these myself and finding it to be a big challenge to get it to go well I won?t do any more of them.

I?m a welder but I recommend riveting these!
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  #5  
Old 09-26-2011, 12:00 PM
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Jim Ellis Jim Ellis is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan View Post
My (limited) understanding is that aviation welds should not be ground. Interesting that a certificated shop used a grinder on your pushrods. Makes them look nice, however.
You make an interesting point, Sam. I really don't have an answer. I will ask Josh about this the next time I talk to him.
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RV-7A, N23VC, Slider, Garmin G3X Touch Panel,
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  #6  
Old 09-26-2011, 12:11 PM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
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Default welds

Standard practice by the Pitts factory for many years is to "fish mouth" the tube in a v, 30 degrees on each side, no rosette. Grinding the weld is a no-no. I believe this is all covered in the Tony Bingelis books, although I haven't looked at them for a long time.
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  #7  
Old 09-26-2011, 12:27 PM
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Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan View Post
My (limited) understanding is that aviation welds should not be ground...
As an A&P (who also welds), that's the general rule I live by. If it's acceptable to grind a weld, it's likely an exception.
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  #8  
Old 09-26-2011, 12:36 PM
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I had mine welded by a guy who does this stuff for a living. They came out great and I'm sure these are much stronger than riveting. He did not grind the welds and I just covered them with the Van's powder coat touch up paint.

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  #9  
Old 09-26-2011, 12:48 PM
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Russ McCutcheon Russ McCutcheon is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
I had mine welded by a guy who does this stuff for a living. They came out great and I'm sure these are much stronger than riveting. He did not grind the welds and I just covered them with the Van's powder coat touch up paint.

Sorry those don't look great, it actually looks like he had a time getting them to flow just like I had, and wile they may be stronger then rivets they may not be tougher over time and vibration. Whatever the threaded end is made from it does not play nice with welding, sorry but I would add rivets to those.
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  #10  
Old 09-26-2011, 02:06 PM
FLY CUBS FLY CUBS is offline
 
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Default

Grinding those welds is a no-no.

See below:

From AC 43.13-1b

SECTION 5. WELDING AND BRAZING, Par 4-47


(7) Do not file or grind welds in an effort
to create a smooth appearance, as such treatment
causes a loss of strength. Do not fill welds with
solder, brazing metal, or any other filler. When it
is necessary to weld a joint which was previously
welded, remove all of the old weld material before rewelding. Avoid
welding over a weld, because reheating may
cause the material to lose its strength and become
brittle. Never weld a joint which has been previously brazed.
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