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  #1  
Old 09-22-2011, 06:29 AM
Mohammed Mohammed is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Posts: 88
Default My tools.. comments required

Hi

I have been doing some research and comparison for tools kits for my RV8 project and decided that rather than buying everything at once I'll just buy what will get me through the empennage kit and buy anything else later or as I progress. So this is what I have chosen to go for:

1) Cleaveland 'Get me started kit
2) Replace the hand squeezer with the pnumatic one
3) Replace the c-frame with DRDT2 front face kit (I'll construct the frame locally to save on shipping)
4) Replace the1" flush set with the swivel one
5) I'll remove all the items that I can buy locally specially if they are heavy to save on shipping (ie snipes, 3M wheels)
6) I'll add the following items:
6.1) drill stops (do I need them)
6.2) rivet gauge
6.3) 1/8 and 3/32 drive pin punch (do I need them?)
6.4) scotchbrite pads

What do you think of this? Am I missing something?
Is the number of clecos enough for the emp?
Do I need cleco clamps or will regular workshop clamps do?

Mohammed
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  #2  
Old 09-22-2011, 07:00 AM
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N8RV N8RV is offline
 
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Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 1,186
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Mohammed, a couple of things:

1) Drill stops -- bought 'em, never used 'em. Well, I did use them at first, but soon discovered that it was a bigger pain having to move them to new drill bits as they wore out and I couldn't find the hex wrench ... I just did without and never missed them. Never drilled into my finger, either.

2) I think you'll find that there are times when a hand squeezer will come in handy (no pun intended), so I'm not sure that I'd eliminate it. And, while I'm a big fan of my pneumatic squeezer and would recommend every builder invest in one, it's really not a must-have for the empennage, IMO.

3) Pin punches come in really handy in lining up holes prior to inserting rivets in some places. Maybe the newer kits line up so well that they're not needed, but I know that I had mine out regularly when assembling parts to rivet.

4) Yes, clecos are necessary. In fact, I don't remember if any side-grip clecos are really needed for the empennage, but you'll need them during the rest of the build, so it might not be a bad idea to buy a few of them.

5) Extra #40 and #30 drill bits. You'll waste a lot of time forcing dull drill bits if you don't.

6) I'm not sure what's in the "Get Me Started Kit", but I'm guessing Band-aids aren't in there. Always good to keep a box handy.

Good luck and welcome to the club!
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  #3  
Old 09-22-2011, 07:22 AM
hendrik hendrik is offline
 
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Location: Heidelberg, Germany
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I'd keep the hand squeezer. Sometimes it's nice to be able to go very slowly.

Cleco clamps -- I've already used them a lot and don't want to miss them.

Scotch brite pads -- I bought them locally.
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  #4  
Old 09-22-2011, 07:41 AM
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bill@fusion4.net bill@fusion4.net is offline
 
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Location: Suwanee, GA
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I bought the drill stops, have never used them.
I upgraded to the pneumatic squeezer and don't have a hand squeezer. So far has worked great. Finished the wings now I have not "Needed" a hand squeezer, although a few times it would have been nice to have.

I use the punch pins for alignment and removing rivets. I would put in the must have list.

I made it through the tail with just the clecos in the kit, but more are better. Have ended up purchasing more while working the wings.
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  #5  
Old 09-22-2011, 07:57 AM
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flion flion is offline
 
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Location: Flagstaff, AZ
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The punches are also needed when you drill out rivets (and you will drill out rivets). Get one of the small tungsten bucking bars (I think mine is 3/4" x 2" x 3") as it will be invaluable in the tight spaces in the empennage. Also, get a no-hole yoke for your squeezer(s) to get the tight spaces at the rear of the elevator and rudder ribs. No matter what tools you buy, inevitably you will reach a point in the construction where you need to wait for a tool you didn't know you needed to arrive, so don't sweat it too much. Even now I'm still getting new sets and bucking bars for riveting on the -10.

Edit: After looking over the Cleaveland kits, I recommend you pass up the starter kit and go with the "RV Builder's Kit". Amongst other things, what good is a back-riveting plate if the kit does not also include the set? However, there are some things I'd leave out. Get the riveting tape and dispenser at your local office supply (you want low-tack scotch tape). Keep the mushroom set - you may find it gives you better results. If you can, get a separate microstop cage for each countersink; it's less of a pain to switch cages than it is to swap cutters in a cage and reset for depth. Oh, and the best present I ever got was a complete number sized drill bit set, with the metal box that has the flip out holders for the bits. You get pretty good at telling #40 and #30 bits but the other sizes can be hard to tell and read off the shank.
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Last edited by flion : 09-22-2011 at 08:10 AM.
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  #6  
Old 09-22-2011, 10:45 AM
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clevtool clevtool is offline
 
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Location: Boone, Iowa
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Good comments so far. The back rivet set DOES come in the get me started kit, but shipping with you is going to be the most controllable cost in getting the tools and it is much cheaper to ship all at once than multiple boxes so keep that in mind. If you go with the 'starter kit' I recommend doubling the clekos, you can get by with the minimum, but you will need them eventually.

For the punches the 3/32" and 1/8" are mainly for removing rivets as mentioned. There is also a tapered punch that works well for alignment of prepunched parts so you are not using the cleko to force alignment.

flion mentioned a thin nose yoke for the squeezer. Since you are building an -8 you will want the 4" thin nose yoke. They are a bit heavier, but on the -8 there is a whole row of rivets that you can set with a 4" that you can't set with the 3", so if you already have the 4" thin nose, you save a yoke.

I can't stress enough REAMERS FOR PREPUNCHED HOLES #40 and #30. You will only have to buy one set (unless you drop the drill) and they are the right tool to enlarge matched hole prepunched holes. Rounder holes, less deburring, and they don't wear like drill bits that chatter.

When building the DRDT I suggest using 1/4" wall thickness for the frame if weight and expense are not an issue. This will greatly reduce the flexing of the frame.

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  #7  
Old 09-22-2011, 11:18 AM
WilburD2 WilburD2 is offline
 
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Location: Houston, Tx
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Drop the drill stops altogether. If you find you need to drill someplace and want a drill stop, just set the depth and wrap the bit in a masking tape ring.

Knowing you're trying to do this on a tight budget Mo, stick with the "Getting started" tool kit and other upgrades. Just make a list of the tools that are in the bigger tool kits and not included in the basic one. That way down the line when you get to the wings and fuselage you can just submit one big order for the remaining tools.

Just my 2 cents worth..
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  #8  
Old 09-22-2011, 11:29 AM
Mohammed Mohammed is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
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Thank you guys for the feedaback so far..

@Mike it is true about saving if ordering the whole lot at once and that was the plan initially but I changed my mind when l saw the totals and thought I would rather save $1000+ now to buy tools I need right now like an air compressor. I got couple of questions for you Mike.

- Can I substitute the 3" by the 4" thin
- Can I substitute the drill bits by the dreamers or are the specific purpose kind of tools
- Do you offer the DRDT face kit or I can only order it from EA?
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  #9  
Old 09-22-2011, 11:31 AM
Mohammed Mohammed is offline
 
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Thank you Bill this is exactly the plan
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  #10  
Old 09-22-2011, 01:54 PM
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flion flion is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clevtool View Post
The back rivet set DOES come in the get me started kit
Wups, so it does. I wondered about that but thought it might be an oversight. Turns out I just missed it.
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