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07-10-2011, 03:24 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Yardley, PA
Posts: 1,334
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Wing skins
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07-10-2011, 09:05 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 1,958
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Great work, you two! By the way, is that a brew kettle or just a turkey fryer that your daughter I resting her foot on?
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Kurt W.
RV9A
FLYING!!!
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07-10-2011, 09:06 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 2,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krw5927
Great work, you two! By the way, is that a brew kettle or just a turkey fryer that your daughter I resting her foot on?
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Looks like a home-brew pot?
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Tony Phillips
N524AP, RV 9 (tail wheel)
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07-10-2011, 09:20 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Yardley, PA
Posts: 1,334
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Sadly...
just a turkey fryer. My "home brew" skills are limited to boats and airplanes... well, part of an airplane so far 
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07-10-2011, 09:32 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 2,053
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Sorry about the seemingly disinterest in the wings (they look great), after your plane is done kickin back drinking some brew takes an important place in most builder's lives. Learning to play guitar also seems popular. For now keep on building! 
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Tony Phillips
N524AP, RV 9 (tail wheel)
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07-10-2011, 10:40 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Molalla, Oregon
Posts: 955
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Wow, NICE riveting work, Tom! Those look flawless. Nice riveting partner, too. (Can I borrow her for a while when you're finished? LOL)
Is that a red C-Frame I see reflected in the top photo? May I make a suggestion? Your dimples for the screws on the fuel tank are showing some shallow craters around them, indicating under-dimpling. If you take that C-frame out and give each one of those dimples another good solid whack or two, those shallow depressions will go away. You can thank me later, if you like. I learned this the hard way.
Keep up the great work!
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07-10-2011, 10:48 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Yardley, PA
Posts: 1,334
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Thanks
Bruce - I totally agree; on my to do list to try. I wasn't thinking and used a squeezer. You think it will make a difference at this point?
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07-10-2011, 11:00 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Molalla, Oregon
Posts: 955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Av8torTom
Bruce - I totally agree; on my to do list to try. I wasn't thinking and used a squeezer. You think it will make a difference at this point?
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Oh yes! Do it while you can, before you take the wings off the jig. It'll be much easier to take those tanks off and put them back on now while they're upright than it would be later when they're pointed down in a cradle, and especially before the bottom skins are riveted on. With such great looking rivets, you'll be glad you did it. The c-frame is the tool to use. You can rig it up somehow on the workbench, maybe get your riveting partner to help you hold the tank while you take care of them. Smack them HARD at least once or twice (I'd go twice). It'll fix them for sure.
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07-11-2011, 10:08 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: CAD
Posts: 249
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insp. covers
hey bruce, does that go for the insp. covers too?
i tried that on my covers and couldn't get a crisp dimple.
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RV9.... Tail done. Inspection done! Wings pre-cover MDRA inspection done. Closing them up now. Fuse underway.
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07-12-2011, 02:27 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Molalla, Oregon
Posts: 955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swixtt
hey bruce, does that go for the insp. covers too?
i tried that on my covers and couldn't get a crisp dimple.
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Absolutely! It's true for any dimple. However, I found that the bigger the dimple (i.e., dimples for screws) the more force it takes to get a good solid flat dimple. I really don't think you can hit them too hard or too many times. "Beat that aluminum into submission". I have to add, also, that I have good quality dimple dies. But this technique is the most important part. You can always practice on some scrap to prove it to yourself first, but once I learned this, it worked for me.
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