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  #11  
Old 12-23-2010, 11:40 AM
Pat Hatch's Avatar
Pat Hatch Pat Hatch is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 881
Default SW8432 on an RV-6

Terry, this isn't an RV-7, but it should be very similar. I built an RV-7 but used a Positech on that one. Anyway, here's some picutres taken during construction of my RV-6 in 2002:







Actually, the oil hose routing is made a little easier by this configuration, but you will have to have a longer hose for the outboard side, as you surmised.

It's a tight fit, but possible. I have about 275 hours on this configuration with no problems. Oil temp rarely gets above 180F, O-360 carburated. You can see where I had to beef up the structure in a couple of places. No cracks so far.
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  #12  
Old 12-23-2010, 02:10 PM
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Noah Noah is offline
 
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Location: Rhode Island
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Default 8432K on RV-7A

I have an older SW 8432 K model with drawn cups, but it's the same idea. Not sure if the tapped holes are in the same location as the newer R model. Here's some construction pix from my not-yet-flying installation. Engine is an IO-360 A1B6. Good Luck!









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All men dream, but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men? for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible. -T.E. Lawrence

Last edited by Noah : 12-23-2010 at 02:12 PM.
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  #13  
Old 12-25-2010, 05:31 PM
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frazitl frazitl is offline
 
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Default Finally found some photos

though not the greatest.
Check out this link:
http://picasaweb.google.com/frazitl/...umy7eB9unq1wE#

Best photo is probably this one showing the baffle cutout..


I ordered all custom hoses (with a right angle for the oil cooler outlet connection).

It works, but it is tight.
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  #14  
Old 12-25-2010, 05:57 PM
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n8zg n8zg is offline
 
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Location: Navarre, FL
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Default

Not flying yet, but I mounted mine on the right, clamped to the engine mount. I don't like the idea of all that weight hanging on the baffles and shaking with the engine.

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  #15  
Old 12-25-2010, 06:05 PM
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frazitl frazitl is offline
 
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Default

Neal. I really like your mounting on the engine mount. Less shaking has to be good. Are you going to duct air from the top of the engine to the cooler? My guess is that you need some forced air flow to provide enough cooling.
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  #16  
Old 12-25-2010, 09:29 PM
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NDrv8r NDrv8r is offline
 
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Location: Bismarck, ND
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Default oil cooler mount

This is a Niagra 13 row oil cooler that Van's sells, and this is a trike.

I don't like all that weight on the baffles shaking around, Also I am concerned about robbing too much air from #3 for cooling.

My plan is to run a 3" scat tube from the #3 back baffle to the cooler. Then out of the cooler I plan to run another 3" tube to the cowl air exit. I may put a damper in it as well.

The idea is not to reduce the pressure differential across the engine.

I hope to be flying in April or when ever this #$%^#@ weather in ND breaks.

We will see how it turns out.
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  #17  
Old 07-07-2011, 09:12 PM
tx_jayhawk tx_jayhawk is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Olathe, KS
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Default

Larry,

I'm curious if you are flying yet and how this solution has worked out for you?

Thanks,
Scott
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2011, 02:32 PM
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NDrv8r NDrv8r is offline
 
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Location: Bismarck, ND
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Default Oil temps

We are flying as of July 2. The engine is a IO360-A1B6 200hp.

This is what the first configuration looked like


I had 3" scat tubing from #4 cyl to the Niagara 20006A 13 row cooler that Vans sells. Note the exit plenum and ducting. The thought was to direct the flow to the exit and perhaps create a bit of venturi effect.

Note this is a nose dragger with all of the tubes obstructing the cowl exit. I do have a bit of rounding at the corner of the firewall.

First flight. cyl head temps ~350 oil temp 235 and climbing before I started backing off.

The baffling (PITA!) seemed to be well sealed. The first thing I did was remove the exit plenum. Aboslutely no change to either the oil or cyl temps.

I next removed the vernatherm. It appeared to expand as advertised. I measured the standard lycoming body, and it appeared to be about .030 deeper than it was supposed to be. Dan H has a bunch of info on vernatherms elsewhere. I fabricated a .032 crush washer instead of the .063 crushwasher. It made a distinct improvement, but would still climb up around 235 with high power (trying to seat new rings) and keep going up until power was reduced. Oat was in the 25 - 30C range.

airspeed seemed to have little effect.

I replaced the 3" hose from the baffle to the cooler with 4" scat. Again an improvement, but still the temps inched up and up under high power.

I did note that #1 and #3 cht were maybe 30 degrees higher than 2 and 4.

I had installed the baffling with the plates in front of #1 and #2 at full height. I trimmed the #1 plate off about 3/4". Problem solved! oil temp now may get up to 220 on a long max power run, but it is very stable with no inclination to keep climbing. It looks like the path under the inlet ramps really gets squeezed down and not a very smooth flow with that plate at full height.
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RV7A slow build, Tip up, IO360 200hp, Catto 3 blade, Dynon Skyview, arinc 429, ems, SV transponder, Garmin GNS430w, Aera 560, Dynon D6.
FLYING!
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  #19  
Old 09-23-2013, 08:41 AM
Gary's RV7A Gary's RV7A is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: West Bend, WI
Posts: 74
Default Mounting Bracket, 8432 oil cooler on baffling

I have an IO-375 with P-Mags. I plan on mounting my oil cooler to the back of the baffling like the first picture in this post. However, I'm concerned that the bracket covers up over an inch of the cooler. Has anyone done an offset at an angle? Or has anyone install a 8432 oil cooler on an IO-375? Thanks.
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