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  #11  
Old 05-18-2011, 08:40 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Actually, the rudder pedals on a Piper Archer are connected to a hydraulic piston/damper which penetrates the firewall and the springs are connected to the damper on one side and the nose wheel steering on the other. The dampers allow you to overcome the springs and the force of the nosewheel when it is in contact with the ground. The trim mechanism is hooked to one side of the torque tube through a lever. It applies additional spring tension only to one side, which offsets the dual springs in the engine compartment. It really does work very well, although I am sure there is a lot of weight involved with the whole system.....
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2011, 06:09 AM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Bill, IMHO the best rudder gust lock is a 2 pin device at the rudder itself.

It involves a 3/16" hole in the rudder arm and another in the rudder stop at the fuselage. Its about as stone simple as can be and works - only tried to taxi one time with it installed before the red flag was added.



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  #13  
Old 05-19-2011, 06:32 AM
Gary 40274 Gary 40274 is offline
 
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I installed centering springs from the pilot right side and the copilot left side forward to the fire wall. Works great. It keeps the rudder from flopping in all but heavy breazes.

Gary Specketer
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  #14  
Old 05-19-2011, 03:21 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
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Default Another option

Here is an option in case none of the others appeal to you.
I had a flap actuator assembly left over from a previously owned RV-8.
Seemed to be a solid mechanism to make a trim system out of it while I am waiting for paint to arrive.
The actuator has 5" of "brute force" linear displacement and can handle a substantial spring to effect left or right rudder movement.
The left side has the spring fixed and only the right side is actuated back and forth. The concept is not new except maybe for the use of the flap actuator.
The cost is probably less than installing a servo and tab on the rudder and it keeps the rudder clean.
Additionally these 2 sprinds will keep the rudder from flopping around in the wind.
This RV has not flown yet but I am confident it will work but may need a few spring adjustments before it works perfectly.






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  #15  
Old 05-19-2011, 04:40 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Ernst, thanks for the photos. I think your system may work, my only suggestion is that you use the proper clamps for the control cables, the clamps you have used may cause a kink in the cable. What you need are .125 inch couplings, just like would be used to attach an autopilot bridle. They consist of 2 pieces which both have 2 parallel grooves and are about 1" long, both cables pass through and get clamped in between the two halves. Go to this link and look on page 14. http://www.inetefb.com/Documentation.../pdf/22-11.pdf
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  #16  
Old 05-19-2011, 04:46 PM
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L.Adamson L.Adamson is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N427EF View Post
Here is an option in case none of the others appeal to you.
I had a flap actuator assembly left over from a previously owned RV-8.
Seemed to be a solid mechanism to make a trim system out of it while I am waiting for paint to arrive.
The actuator has 5" of "brute force" linear displacement and can handle a substantial spring to effect left or right rudder movement.
To me, that's more than it needs. A heavier motor, heavy springs, and associated fittings. The rudder DOES require "brute" force. Yet a simple light servo, as used in the elevator or ailerons, can do the same trick, by moving a small rudder tab. Simple, light, and all the adjustment one needs.

L.Adamson ---- RV6A
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  #17  
Old 05-19-2011, 04:55 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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That's kind of the conclusion I have come to also. Some light springs with a TA-12a servo on one spring is all it should take
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  #18  
Old 05-19-2011, 05:10 PM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
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Location: USA
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Default I doubt the 1.2" travel would be enough with RA servo

when connected to springs. The 20 lbs of operating thrust may be sufficient unless you had to use a lever to increase the travel, which it may not be then. I used those cable clamps on my grape arbor cables and yes they do kink the cable. Like Bill, I would use the aviation equivalent. Good engineering otherwise. Plenty of thrust and travel with that setup. Just would not be able to install it in mine due to GRT AHRS in that location and Aux bat on right side.
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  #19  
Old 05-19-2011, 08:51 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
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Bill, I will definitley change those clamps, just did not have any on hand
and don't know what they are called.

I am not trying to convince anybody that this is a better design than the servo activated trim tab which is probably the most gentle solution for trim.

I can tell you from experience that a TA-12 Ray Allen Servo will not do the job. We tried the same idea on our RV8's and that servo even with a lever arm could not move the rudder.
What I have is certainly a bit overkill but as I pointed out I already had the
flap actuator and tried to put it to use.
The installation is also less invasive than hacking up the rudder and making accomodations for a servo.
The spring loaded rudder is also a plus.
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  #20  
Old 05-19-2011, 09:10 PM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
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Default Same for me Ernst.

No way was I going to cut a hole and add weight to my rudder unless it has been tested by Van's or equivalent. Yes, many have that mod. As we've seen, all it takes is 34 kts over Vne, 109 over Va to ruin your day. I prefer to keep my margins as high as possible for that one bad piloting day I may have. I would have never thought losing a rudder/vertical stab would cause loss of control.
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