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06-10-2006, 08:57 PM
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aileron
has anyone
Last edited by william weesner : 07-17-2006 at 01:47 PM.
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06-10-2006, 11:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Yes....
Bill,
I had mine welded (by a professional - just don't say it's for a plane...) and then cadmium plated... came out nice.
This was on an old RV-6A kit, with a steel tube and steel end fittings with a male thread. Are the RV-7 ones the same construction??
The cad. plating was easy to get done a while ago, now I would just epoxy prime it with two coats.
gil in Tucson
PS clean off the existing cad. plating on the steel end fittings before you take it to the welder... he'll like it better that way... 
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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06-11-2006, 04:45 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KPYM
Posts: 2,686
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Bill, here is a link to a site where I detailed how I did mine.
Those rivets are squirrely! Try this method and go one size shorter than the spec. It works out VERY well!
 CJ
__________________
RV-7 Flying - 1,200 Hours in 5 Years!
The experiment works!
TMX-IO-360, G3i ignition & G3X with VP-X
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06-11-2006, 06:51 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KPYM
Posts: 2,686
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Cadnium
Bill, I think you will have success with this method. If an idiot like me can pull it off, you can too!
If I had a pic of the shop heads, I would post them. *Most* of them look really good!
REALLY good!
Go one size shorter on the rivets. I think Van suggests the extra long ones because he expects them to swell larger than they really do inside the CADNIUM plated rod ends (and they don't).
Lemme know how it works out for you!
Good luck!
 CJ
__________________
RV-7 Flying - 1,200 Hours in 5 Years!
The experiment works!
TMX-IO-360, G3i ignition & G3X with VP-X
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06-11-2006, 08:51 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
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Try filling the inside of the tubes with epoxy/flox where the rivets go through. Redrill the holes through the flox and try to set the rivets. Makes it alot easier. It stops the rivet from trying to swell inside the tube.
Mike
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06-12-2006, 10:04 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KPYM
Posts: 2,686
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Bill, glad to hear you got it all set!
 CJ
__________________
RV-7 Flying - 1,200 Hours in 5 Years!
The experiment works!
TMX-IO-360, G3i ignition & G3X with VP-X
Last edited by Captain_John : 06-12-2006 at 10:08 PM.
Reason: typo
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01-30-2007, 02:34 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Roma, Italy
Posts: 510
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My report
Hi to everyone.
I had the same problem and I solved it using one of the indicated techniques: C-frame. I noticed that there are two problems: the first, is that rivet seems too long (and it is slightly long; not so long); the second (which is a consequence of the first), that hand squeezer or rivet gun easily get misaligned (especially beacuse the flat rivet set is slightly mushroomed and it tends to go away...). The latter is solved using the C-frame and hitting only one shot per time, then checking and eventually realigning before the next shot (resist the temptation to use, once the rivet starts setting, the hand squeezer!). The first, could be solved cutting 1/32'' from an AN470AD4-12. I think that using an AD4-11 (one size smaller rivet) is not good (I tried it): it is too short. Maybe, it will go, and aileron will never disconnect from pushrod, but I'm not an engineer to determine this. So, cutting 1/32 (with scotchbrite) is better than nothing: this will help a little for the first shots, which are critical.
Maybe Van's should have mentioned the problem. I think I would have used welding...
Hope this will help someone.
Camillo
__________________
RV4 IO-320, Catto 3-blade, Christen, I-BILT
Flight time: 1 hour
Status: test flights
www.rv4.it
ROME, Italy
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RV9A O-320 D1A, Hartzell C/S prop, slider, I-PRCA
Flight time: 350 hours
Status: SOLD
http://nuke.rv9.it
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01-30-2007, 06:06 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 837
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Aileron pushrod rivets
I did this recently using 11's and the Tatco. Set them until the shop heads were about 3/4 set, then switched to cup sets at both ends and finished setting. Came out perfectly; you have to look closely to determine which end of the rivet is the shop end. They both look like manufactured heads!

__________________
Ron Leach
RV-7 N713CM reserved VAF # 603
Cincinnati
__________________________________________
"Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then".
.....Bob Seger
Last edited by captainron : 01-30-2007 at 06:10 AM.
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01-30-2007, 09:19 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Roy, Utah
Posts: 1,144
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I had mine welded by a pro. No more concerns about rivet heads rubbing on rear spar openings.
Steve
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01-30-2007, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Posts: 1,156
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I welded mine myself, with an oxyacetylene rig. Used the scotchbrite wheel to get the cad plating off the rod ends and some of the powder coat off the tube. Prep took longer than the welding. 4130 welds nicely with gas.
__________________
Lars Pedersen
Davis, CA
RV-7 Flying as of June 24, 2012
960+ hours as of June 30, 2020. Where did the time go?
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