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  #1  
Old 05-06-2011, 05:54 PM
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RVG8tor RVG8tor is offline
 
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Default Accessory studs

I bought some Loctite 271 (red) thread locker for installing new studs in the vacuum pad to accommodate a spacer for the SD20 alternator. I read on here that someone received info from Mattituck about using the thread lock on the studs.

Well the old studs (from a new engine) came out with no trouble but there does not seem to be any thread locker used, maybe some signs of anti-seize. So the real question is for studs on the accessory case, should a thread lock be used or if not what else. I am not a gear head and I have spent the last several days learning as much as I can about this stuff on line. I have learned enough to know there is more than one way to skin the cat for this stuff, so please give me your thoughts.

Cheers
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  #2  
Old 05-06-2011, 06:13 PM
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Default Studs

Quote:
Originally Posted by RVG8tor View Post
. I have learned enough to know there is more than one way to skin the cat for this stuff, so please give me your thoughts.

Cheers
No matter how you skin it---- the cat don't like it!!!!!!
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  #3  
Old 05-06-2011, 07:35 PM
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RVG8tor RVG8tor is offline
 
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Default Overhaul Manual

I am not sure what the current edition of the Lycoming Overhaul Manual is but the 6th edition I was able to locate said this for stud replacement.

"Coat threads of studs with thread lubricant, Specification JAN-A-669, and drive stud to correct depth by using a suitable stud driver."

So the thread that said use Loctite does not agree with the Overhaul Manual unless something has changed since the 6th edition. This also is in keeping with what I found removing the existing studs (no Loctite used).

I would be interested to hear pros and cons of using Loctite if you prefer this method on the studs.

Cheers.
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2011, 08:20 PM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Default

I've followed Mattitucks lead on my engines, and not used loc-tite on these threads either - so at least that's two of us Mike.

Paul
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  #5  
Old 05-06-2011, 08:24 PM
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Superior had me do mine the same way; lube, not lock.
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  #6  
Old 05-06-2011, 09:26 PM
Jim Wright Jim Wright is offline
 
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Default Studs

I am not an expert but from my experience the Lycoming studs are not necessarily free fitting in at least a Superior accesory case. While replacing magnetos it was necessary to remove the existing studs and replace them with shorter studs.
The original studs came out with difficulty. The new studs, factory Lycoming studs, had to be double nutted and then screwed into the accessory case. This would indicate that there is a locking thread between the stud and the case, not the usual free threading design that we are accustomed to. Has anyone else experienced this?
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  #7  
Old 05-06-2011, 10:08 PM
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Default Tight fit

The studs are slightly larger at the end that goes into the accessory case, in my case a 1/4 nut will spin easily on one end and not the other, the large end goes in to the case.

You may be right in that this tight fit acts to lock the stud. I been heavily in to the Education part of building doing stuff on the engine.

Cheers
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  #8  
Old 05-07-2011, 04:16 AM
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Kevin Horton Kevin Horton is offline
 
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The Lycoming Overhaul Manual specifies a minimum torque spec when installing the stud. I.e. you are OK if it takes at least this much torque to turn the stud when installing it. This ensures that the stud fits tightly enough in its hole so it should stay in place. My manual is at the hangar, so I can't look up the value for you.
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  #9  
Old 05-07-2011, 08:45 AM
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RV7AV8R RV7AV8R is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVG8tor View Post
The studs are slightly larger at the end that goes into the accessory case, in my case a 1/4 nut will spin easily on one end and not the other, the large end goes in to the case.

You may be right in that this tight fit acts to lock the stud. I been heavily in to the Education part of building doing stuff on the engine.

Cheers
I just replaced the studs yesterday on my left mag with new Lycoming shorter studs. The orginal nut freely screwed on one end of the stud but not the other. The threads appeared identical and OD measurement looked the same. But one end would screw into the engine freely and the other needed a double nut. I concluded the threads were fatter or not as deep on one end and it must be a means of providing a lock for the stud. Pretty cleaver. I'm not a mechanic and have never encountered this before. Anyway, the difficult end screwed into the engine with reasonable effort, about the same as it took to get the old ones out.
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  #10  
Old 05-07-2011, 10:04 AM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7AV8R View Post
I just replaced the studs yesterday on my left mag with new Lycoming shorter studs. The orginal nut freely screwed on one end of the stud but not the other. The threads appeared identical and OD measurement looked the same. But one end would screw into the engine freely and the other needed a double nut. I concluded the threads were fatter or not as deep on one end and it must be a means of providing a lock for the stud. Pretty cleaver. I'm not a mechanic and have never encountered this before. Anyway, the difficult end screwed into the engine with reasonable effort, about the same as it took to get the old ones out.
The studs come oversize and they have a number on the end indicating how much oversize they are- 3 is .003", 7 - .007", etc. If you have a loose fit on a stud you should go the next size up. You don't need to buy these studs from Lycoming, any auto parts store that has Dorman studs should have the equivalent. All of the hardware specified for the Lycoming is grade 5 so the bolts you can get from Tractor Supply are actually superior (grade 8).

On my Rocket I prefer helicoiling the case and installing 1/4-20 bolts instead of replacing studs. I did this on the governor and on the accesssory case where I took out the studs and machined covers for the magneto holes.
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Last edited by rocketbob : 05-07-2011 at 10:15 AM.
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