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  #11  
Old 05-06-2011, 09:35 AM
windsock windsock is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: orlando florida
Posts: 4
Default RV-4

Wood props need to be retorqued seasonally - be sure to do yours before flight .
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  #12  
Old 05-06-2011, 10:13 AM
Tharpo Tharpo is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hernando, Ms.
Posts: 39
Default roll bar

Could you not insert a new roll bar of the proper OD into what you already have? Maybe get you going quicker.
Blessings
Tharpo
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  #13  
Old 05-06-2011, 10:52 AM
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gnuse gnuse is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Georgia / 0GE5 / KSSI
Posts: 399
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tharpo View Post
Could you not insert a new roll bar of the proper OD into what you already have? Maybe get you going quicker.
Blessings
Tharpo
In race cars it is not unusual to insert a "bung" into the old tubing and end up with the same size tubing for the new piece, which fits over the bung.
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"God does not deduct from one's time on earth that which is spent in the air."
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  #14  
Old 05-06-2011, 12:28 PM
Rion Bourgeois's Avatar
Rion Bourgeois Rion Bourgeois is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Canby, OR
Posts: 22
Default Hoses

If your fuel, oil, and brake fluid hoses are original, I would replace them. Age code is on the bands on the fuel and oil lines. If you don't want to replace them again until engine overhaul, use Teflon this time. http://www.sacskyranch.com/h_life.htm

If you are going to redo the panel as a project next winter, consider going with the latest and the greatest from Advanced Flight Systems. http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/

Replace those screen door springs with a set of Taillynx. http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/...duct=tail-lynx


You made the right choice in aircraft.

Rion
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  #15  
Old 05-06-2011, 01:45 PM
LotusSeven LotusSeven is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: California, MD
Posts: 29
Default

All good info guys. I will add this stuff to the list. I know that zip-ties are a no-no but I had not thought about the fact that those are probably 20 years old now, good point there.

I will consider my options on the roll bar. Someone already contacted me saying he had an extra one lying around. I may take the current one and make up a nice curvy topped bar (w/bung splices) when I get around to sourcing 4130 mandrel bent tube. I just don't like the idea of using the prebent mild steel exhaust stock for a roll bar.

All of the oil lines and flexible fuel lines have been replaced in the past year. I think the brake lines may be original. Any way to tell if they are on their way out?

A complete panel redo is definitely on the list of want to's though the check book is still too hot to handle after buying the plane.

First things first though, gota source some transition training. Looks like I will be making a small vacation out of it based on who I have seen discussed here on VAF.
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  #16  
Old 05-06-2011, 08:30 PM
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turbo turbo is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stuart, FL /Hartford, CT/Virgin Gorda,BVI
Posts: 3,122
Default

just curious why it is n numbered nx45km when the number is n45km?
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  #17  
Old 05-07-2011, 07:59 PM
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Hawkeye7A Hawkeye7A is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SE AZ
Posts: 286
Default Prop notes

I got a used O-360 (180 hp) and had it overhauled for my RV-7A. It came with an Ed Sterba prop (can't tell what you have) with an 82 inch pitch. Straight and level with full throttle it turned 2825 RPM. I talked with Ed and he said it looked like I could use another 4 inches of pitch so I replaced it with one of his with 86" pitch. I still see about 2500 RPM on climbout but it improved my cruise by 15-20 knots. I fly out of a field at 4800 msl and didn't sacrifice much climb at all but now I cruise (@ 55% power) at 150 KTAS+ at just under 8gph. Something you may want to look into. (Just sayin')
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RV-7A Flying as of Sep 7, 2008
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SE AZ

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  #18  
Old 05-07-2011, 08:06 PM
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Hawkeye7A Hawkeye7A is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SE AZ
Posts: 286
Default Also......

AZ is pretty stable humidity wise, but as previously posted, I re-torque my prop every oil change-50 hours. If you're in a humid area, NW, NE or SE, you may want to do it more often. Also, be sure to check the tracking after the re-torque.
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RV-7A Flying as of Sep 7, 2008
Phase One complete as of Nov 16, 2008
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SE AZ

"I fly because it frees my mind from the tyranny of petty things."

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  #19  
Old 05-08-2011, 01:09 PM
LotusSeven LotusSeven is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: California, MD
Posts: 29
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo View Post
just curious why it is n numbered nx45km when the number is n45km?
The official N-number on file with the FAA will never show an X after the N. You are allowed to add the X on the plane if it is at least 30 years old or it is a replica of a plane at least 30 years old. At this point that makes it legal for an RV-4 to have the X. As for personal reasons, I dunno, it was on there when I bought it. I am pretty sure if you have the X shown then it takes the place of the word experimental though it seems like this should be a badge of honor.

Hawkeye, once I get a chance to do some flight tests to get better numbers on the prop I may spring for a new one. Sounds like it really helped your cruise numbers.
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  #20  
Old 05-08-2011, 02:47 PM
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smokyray smokyray is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: TX32
Posts: 1,891
Default You have chosen...wisely

Matt,

Good choice on the 4, from personal experience of two grand sitting in one, you won't grow tired of it. All of the above inputs are good, here are some techniques that might help. I look at alot of 4's for people, here are a few things I look for:

1: Every oil change pull the cowling and check your prop torque as mentioned several times already. I had a Warnke for awhile and they are great props. Bernie used an early carbon fiber lamination on the back. Check it for separation, looks like a hairline crack at the white paint edge. Add lower firewall longerons for cracks, especially if it lacks heavy weldments. Many early 4's had tank slosh, if so check the drains by removing them every oil change long enough to drain the junk. Visually inspect inside the tank for loose slosh. Check the lower rudder and elevators if you have the .016 skins for hairline cracks around the rivets. While you're there, check the hinge attach nuts for tightness. Think about replacing brake lines if they are teflon, eventually they will leak. Email me off line, I can pass some gouge on all of the above.

2. Canopy lock lights aren't necessary if you actually make sure it's closed before you take off Nuff said.

3. Roll bar is a must but can be found fairly easily, I have one you can have, contact me off line.

4. Buy some good seats sometime in the future. The Oregon aero bottom cushion is nice for long flights. My personal record was Boise to Lakeland in one day.
5. Questions?

Congrats!
Smokey
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