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  #1  
Old 04-27-2011, 05:05 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
Default Slider top skin - how do I set these rivets?

Any idea how to set the two rivets circled? The canopy deck gets in the way such that even my thinnest of bucking bars (1/2") and squeezer yokes (used as bucking bars) are too thick. I managed to get the ones right under the spar cap, but neither of the two aft of it. Because they are 426 3-7 rivets, whatever bucking bar I might use needs to have some mass. I've heard/seen people use pulled rivets here, but since the holes are dimpled for 3/32 and since it has to go through the thick longeron, I'm not sure what I could use. It's been so long since I did any signficant riveting that I've forgot all my tricks!

Any thoughts re: what you did to get these couple of rivets would be appreciated.

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  #2  
Old 04-27-2011, 05:15 PM
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Kokemiller Kokemiller is offline
 
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Location: Boone, IA
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Default back rivet plate

I was able to slip my back rivet plate up there to buck them.
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  #3  
Old 04-27-2011, 05:16 PM
RV6AussieNick RV6AussieNick is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 166
Default Blind rivets

without seeing the other side and not being familiar with the slider setup I'd say install a couple of 3/32 Csk blind pop rivets, unfortunately I don't have a part No for you but they do exist, i'm sure someone else will have another option or part numbers to help you out. Good luck with it.
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  #4  
Old 04-28-2011, 10:26 AM
Steve Steve is offline
 
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Location: Roy, Utah
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Default

I used a 1/4" or 3/8" thick steel bar I had around the shop. It was about 8" long x 2" wide so it had some mass. Notch one corner as required to reach the rivet tail.
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  #5  
Old 04-28-2011, 10:56 AM
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Andrew M Andrew M is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Secluded Lake,Alaska (AK49)
Posts: 359
Default Cherry Part Number

CR3412-4- is a 1/8 " rivet with a NAS 1097 head that will fit your dimple.
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-9 empennage
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  #6  
Old 04-28-2011, 12:34 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Posts: 3,642
Default

Thanks for all the suggestions. Spruce doesn't seem to carry those CherryMax "oops" rivets, but the back rivet plate method gives me an idea if I can't find them elsewhere.
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  #7  
Old 05-01-2011, 12:44 AM
Camillo Camillo is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Roma, Italy
Posts: 510
Default

I think I riveted them using the thinner edge of a tools pry.
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  #8  
Old 05-01-2011, 12:57 AM
Sig600 Sig600 is offline
 
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Location: KRTS
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Default

I've had success slipping a crow bar behind places like that. Even bucked one non-structural rivet with a slotted screw driver, pushing on the center portion of it with a bucking bar. Still made a decent shop head.
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  #9  
Old 05-01-2011, 09:02 AM
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N282S N282S is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Topeka
Posts: 323
Default Canopy frame after deck

I know, the 9 is different than the 7, but, on my 7 I installed the forward canopy frame after riveting the top deck.
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  #10  
Old 05-01-2011, 09:31 AM
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airguy airguy is offline
 
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Location: Garden City, Tx
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Default

Oh yeah, forgot about those - they were a bit of a pain. I got the edge of a backrivet plate in there.
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