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04-03-2011, 06:19 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Iron Mountain, MI
Posts: 61
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Wing building
Getting ready to build the wings. Is it best to build them together? Looking for some pics of wing stands. I really can't attach a 4x4 to the ceiling, so it needs to be free standing some how.
Mike
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Mike Betti
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04-03-2011, 07:19 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,219
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There is no big advantage to building them together. In fact, there might be the disadvantage of having 2 wings in your way, rather than 1.
What situation prevents you from attaching structure to the ceiling? In my case, I screwed 2x4's through the sheetrock and into the trusses. Then I kludged up a way to attach the 4x4's to those.
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Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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04-03-2011, 07:38 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Iron Mountain, MI
Posts: 61
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Ceiling is 12' with metal sheeting. Can't anchor to the floor either, infloor heat in concrete. I found some made by another builder that are free standing I think I will try.
Mike
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Mike Betti
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04-04-2011, 07:52 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 590
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Here is a post to pics of my rolling wing stand. I built mine together, the biggest advantage is efficiency...doing them both at the same time will go faster in my opinion. The downside is...doing everything twice, at the same time, gets a little old. However, I would do it this way again, it worked well for me.
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Ron Duren
Mechanical Engineer
"SportAir PhD"-RV Assembly/Composites/Electrical
Denver, CO (KBJC)
RV-7 'Tip Up'
Flying!! as of 3/16/14
IO-375/ WW 200G-CS/ SkyView/ Dual P-mags
N531R "Wablosa" Wings of Red
http://www.ronsrv7project.blogspot.com
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04-04-2011, 10:08 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eatonton, GA
Posts: 215
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I glued my fixed post to the concrete floor with RTV. It was attached firmly at the top. I didn't build both wing at the same time due to space but I suspect it would be faster due to task set up time.
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Jeff Green
2016 RV-8 #82985
1968 E33C Aerobatic Bonanza
Pleased to donate Dec 2019
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04-04-2011, 10:12 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,370
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I was fortunate to have another local builder lend me his movable wing jig. This was made from some aluminum channels with some sort of spring loaded nuts that you could bolt into and adjust easily. Very strong and lightweight. The lower braces were ripped from the spar shipping crate.
I ended up ditching the cross braces. Too cramped to work on that side of the wings with them in place. With both wings clamped on, it is pretty stiff and sturdy (as long as the wing skins are on).
Whatever you make, be sure to set the height of the main spar at chest high. Otherwise when you start driving rivets on that rear spar, you'll be laying on the ground.
Being able to move this around as needed while building was great!
Lots more photos on my web pages.
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04-04-2011, 02:15 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 80
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You can see what i've done here: http://plane.datsclark.com/2011/01/14/wing-stands/
I'm pretty far along on the wings now, and for the most part, i don't have a problem with them being so close together. I'd prefer another foot or two, but my shop just isn't big enough. I plan to hang the arms away from each other for an extra 2 feet once i'm to riveting.
I'm also doing both at the same time. I like the idea of being done with each task for both wings at the same time. I feel it is more efficient that way -- no idea if it really is.
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RV7A/TU Finishing Kit
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04-04-2011, 07:42 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Iron Mountain, MI
Posts: 61
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Thanks for the ideas. I am building 4 pedistal posts and building both wings together. I don't understand the lower brace, is that attached after the wing is leveled?
Mike
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Mike Betti
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04-04-2011, 10:21 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,370
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The lower brace can go on after you get the basic skeleton put together and are ready to fit the skins. At that point, you will want to get the sag out of the center of the wing, and get any twist out before you start match drilling. Just run a plumb bob down each side of the wing from the main spar, measure and make sure each side is equal after you have leveled everything. Finally, clamp the rear spar down to the lower brace to keep it there while you work. Check it again before you rivet because it will probably move a little with the jig being made of wood.
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04-05-2011, 05:21 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 2,346
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With limited shop space available, I approached the job of wing construction a bit different than anything I've read here. I only built one wing jig. The upright 4X4 posts on the jig were simply clamped to the overhead joists in my basement. I have some really large C-clamps that allowed me to do that. The bottom of the vertical posts rested on the concrete floor but were not attached to it. I might have wedged a shim or two underneath to help keep the posts from shifting around but that's about it.

After I framed the first wing which was nothing more than permanently riveting the main spar, ribs, and rear spar together as shown above, I removed that assembly from the jig and it aside on the floor out of the way. At that point, the "wing" is reasonably light and flexible so I had no trouble moving it around the basement by myself. With that framed wing out of the way, I went on to build the second wing. When the second wing was completed, I removed it from the jig, then reinstalled the first wing back into it to complete that wing's skinning and other assembly.
What is important to remember is that we are dealing with pre-punched parts. Crucial alignments have already been thoughtfully provided by Van's so a precise wing jig is hardly important. That "jig" is more of a work stand than anything else.
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Rick Galati
RV6A N307R"Darla!"
RV-8 N308R "LuLu"
EAA Technical Counselor
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