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03-23-2011, 06:50 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Gillispie
Not as easy as we might think. Next plane I'll just use aerosol cans  . It is tough stuff and mine even has different textures that I did not even plan on  .
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Yes me too, wet floor, filtered air in, degrease, tack cloth, and suit and still have things in the paint? what the, where the *^&%%^$
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7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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03-23-2011, 07:07 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,069
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I am no expert, but have spoken to a few....I don't believe you can wet sand metallic paints, because it will do exactly what it did when you tried. On metallics you'll have to shoot it perfectly the first time. again, I am no expert.
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Ryan Allen, CFII
RV7 N612RA, flying since july 2012
E-170/175
RV10 Tail Kit complete, Wings 90%, fuse on order
Acro Sport 2, building
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03-23-2011, 10:07 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: KRTS
Posts: 1,798
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Given the results of that vert. stab, I may pay you to do my plane!
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Next?, TBD
IAR-823, SOLD
RV-8, SOLD
RV-7, SOLD
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03-23-2011, 10:32 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,347
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Don't sand the basecoat.
The nice thing about base is that it is easy to remove if you really bugger it up. Some lacquer thinner will take it off. To all those who fear painting, base is really easy to shoot. The clear is where most problems occur.
Basecoat do's and don'ts: Shoot for coverage, don't flood it. It will look crappy and dull, but the clear fixes that. Never sand basecoat. Shoot a drop coat for metallics to even it out and avoid tiger stripes.
Clear: The tech sheet should tell you when you can sand/buff. Most are pretty fast so shops can get them out the door. I waited a few days to be safe. Be REAL carefull of edges and proud rivets. Keep the pad tilted and running off the edges. (another "oh ****!" lesson!)
autobody101.com is a good place for general info.
Practice, practice, practice...but not on your plane. Junkyard trunk lids and hoods are good practice fodder, but you might have to sand down crappy factory orange peel first!
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Mike W
Venice, FL
RV-6A. Mattituck TMX O-360, FP, GRT Sport EFIS, L3 Lynx NGT-9000
N164WM
N184WM reserved (RV-8)....finishing kit in progress. Titan IOX-370
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03-23-2011, 11:14 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: KRTS
Posts: 1,798
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Mike,
Insight on how to lay down and sand a proper coat of primer?
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Next?, TBD
IAR-823, SOLD
RV-8, SOLD
RV-7, SOLD
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03-23-2011, 02:55 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fl-mike
Don't sand the basecoat.
The nice thing about base is that it is easy to remove if you really bugger it up. Some lacquer thinner will take it off. To all those who fear painting, base is really easy to shoot. The clear is where most problems occur.
Basecoat do's and don'ts: Shoot for coverage, don't flood it. It will look crappy and dull, but the clear fixes that. Never sand basecoat. Shoot a drop coat for metallics to even it out and avoid tiger stripes.
Clear: The tech sheet should tell you when you can sand/buff. Most are pretty fast so shops can get them out the door. I waited a few days to be safe. Be REAL carefull of edges and proud rivets. Keep the pad tilted and running off the edges. (another "oh ****!" lesson!)
autobody101.com is a good place for general info.
Practice, practice, practice...but not on your plane. Junkyard trunk lids and hoods are good practice fodder, but you might have to sand down crappy factory orange peel first!
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My first mistake: I had epoxy primer, primer sealer, black base, intercoat clear, and when I shot the purple it ran wierd like a grease slick, I think I went too heavy? take 3 (nevermind about take 2) I shot epoxy primer, base, and 50% light coat then a full color coat. is this right or should just 1 medium coat of base be enough, and is 40 PSI ok (HVLP 1.4) and why dose clear go into this wierd whare wolf fog thing?
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7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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03-23-2011, 06:49 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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that is some good info, thanks
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7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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03-25-2011, 09:49 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Chandler, Arizona
Posts: 188
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Painting
Bret, Most base coats you can put on fairly dry, in other words you don't have to spray it on heavy looking for a nice wet glossy sheen. You can apply several light coats and build up an even layer. Metals or Pearls like to settle in thicker areas and will develop a splotchy look if you apply it to heavy and the coat "orange peels", or develops tiny runs. Several light to med. applications to build the color works best, then clear. many people are in a hurry to color sand and buff out their planes. I advise waiting 6 months or more even, let all the paint cure, shrink to its thing. Same with the Fiberglass resins. Even after you run the plane and heat up the cowl several times you will start to see the weave of the cloth showing through the paint. Let it all cure up, shrink up, then come back and color sand and buff to a nice finish. If you rush it, it will show up down the road and you will have to do it again. This time you may not have enough clear left to avoid sanding through?
Chris
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03-25-2011, 10:24 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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Hey thanks 208, after a week I moved them to the living room and notice that I can still slightly smell the paint-clear, it is dry to the touch but it seams like it wants to stick to the wall that it is leaning up against, should I hang these pieces? and how long till it is curred enough. Thinking ahead about when the wings will sit in the wing stand?
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7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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