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03-01-2008, 09:09 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 313
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Drilling lead counterweights
Well, I broke my drill bit inside the lead elevator counterweight. Can't get it out, and can't drill through it. Any suggestions? 
__________________
Jim Brown
RV6, Christen Eagle II(Sold)
ATP, CFII, A-IGI, A&P/IA
Carrollton, GA
Lyon?s Landing
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03-01-2008, 09:35 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sedro Wooley, WA
Posts: 147
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drilling lead
Hello,
Did the drill go all the way through the lead weight?
If so the following might work.
Put on some gloves and safety glasses. Prop the lead weight up between some blocks of wood. Take a punch and a big hammer and beat the drill bit through the lead weight.
Lead is tough to drill. Go slow and back out of the hole frequently to clear the shavings.
anyone else got any ideas?
Mike
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03-01-2008, 09:38 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 313
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Thanks Mike....good idea, but the bit didn't get all the way thru. I'm thinking the easiest thing to do is order a new counterweight. Thanks for the quick reply, and I'll use your suggestions.
__________________
Jim Brown
RV6, Christen Eagle II(Sold)
ATP, CFII, A-IGI, A&P/IA
Carrollton, GA
Lyon?s Landing
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03-01-2008, 11:01 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 89
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tip...
Try a pair of needlenose vice grip. Put the noses it into the holes where the drill bit ain't (into the open twist of the bit). Use crescent wrench on the vice grips to back it out.
By the way, you might try putting it in the freezer before you try it.
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03-01-2008, 12:39 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Oyen, Ab
Posts: 173
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Pay the Freight?
Counterweights do not have to be pretty when installed, just as long as the shape is right. You will be able to fill the holes with resin and microballoons to obtain a good finish. I would just try pounding the bit with a punch until it comes. If all else fails I have a brand new counterweight here you can have. Just pay the freight. Best of luck to you.
Last edited by jrvssgl : 03-01-2008 at 12:45 PM.
Reason: correction
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03-01-2008, 01:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: The Beautiful NJ Shore
Posts: 409
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The -7 and -8 have totally different counterweights.
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Greg Piney
RV-8 2547
Empennage Done!
Beginning Fuselage Final Assembly!
(Tub finished, on to Landing Gear).
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03-01-2008, 01:55 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrvssgl
Counterweights do not have to be pretty when installed, just as long as the shape is right. You will be able to fill the holes with resin and microballoons to obtain a good finish. I would just try pounding the bit with a punch until it comes. If all else fails I have a brand new counterweight here you can have. Just pay the freight. Best of luck to you.
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Thanks Jarvis, I appreciate the offer. I went ahead and ordered a new one from Van's....it's only $9.70. I'll use the other one for now, and use the new one when it arrives for the left elevator.
__________________
Jim Brown
RV6, Christen Eagle II(Sold)
ATP, CFII, A-IGI, A&P/IA
Carrollton, GA
Lyon?s Landing
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03-02-2008, 06:39 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Coffee Springs, Al
Posts: 124
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Lead Counterweight issue
I did exactly the same thing as you have described. My soultion was to drill multiple holes around the periphery of the broken bit with a small drill bit until we were able to pull it out with needle nose vise grips. YMMV
__________________
Tim Pethel
Coffee Springs, Al
RV-8A SB Wings Done
Fuse done
Airworthiness cert issued.
Flying as of 08/12/12
Out of Phase 1
200 hours
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03-24-2011, 12:47 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NorCAL
Posts: 16
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Thought I would add my sollution for future searches
I found this thread today when I did the exact same thing, broke off a 3/32 drill bit in my lead counterweight. I tried to punch it out but it would not come through the other side. My fault for using a cheap bit (didn't want to use my good bits on lead)
I enlarged the hole which ended up being an oblonged kind of 3 sided cloverleaf shape. I was finally able to punch out the broken drill bit then grab it with needle nose pliars.
I melted some lead (blow torch and throw away pot) and poured it into the messed up hole creating a lead patch as it were. I made sure the lead was all the way though the hole and both side were sealed with new lead. I then filed down the excess lead that spilled up above the hole. I placed the the lead counterweight back into the counterweight skin/rib assembly. I then was very careful to drill slow and use a good drill bits enlarging the hole to final size slowly.
You can barely tell the hole was filled with new lead and it seems to hold well. I was concerned about the cold joint between the old and new lead, but the part is sandwiched between the ribs and skin so if the lead flakes off in the hole it will be held in place for sure.
Another solution I thought of was drilling two bolt holes on each side of the broken drill bit hole.
I had just spent a long time with a hacksaw and file shaping the right elevator counterweight and I wanted to salvage the part if I could.
Branden
RV-8 Empenage
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03-24-2011, 06:27 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,768
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Melt it down and re-pour it. We had to pour all of our balance weights back in the day.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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