HS is done.

[Smilin' Jack]

Well finally got the HS done and all the VS parts primed. About 55 hours so far.

Here are some pictures... I know, I over did it on the pictures...

http://rides.webshots.com/album/5796...rides&start=12

Smilin' Jack
RV 7
Working on it...... got to get the boat sold and some ham stuff.
Need the money.... for the airplane....

[Kobwo]

Nice! Right behind you but I had to order a new HS-405 rib. I was using my snips to trim the flange and it cracked AND of course Vans is closed on presidents day.

Keep on bangin!

cheers,

[Smilin' Jack]

Well were working pretty hard and I really need to update the pictures and get my log updated. I taken quite a few pictures but have not up loaded them yet to webshots.

The rudder stiffners are in and all the parts dimpled and ready to be primed.
I fastened a piece of angle aluminum to the work bench and put on one skin and drill all the trailing holes with the AEX wedge sitting over the dimpled skin. I get some pictures up tomorrow.
We drilled all the holes, Don't have any tank sealent but found at Home depot some marine epoxy and will use that to tack the trailing edge together.

then do the fancy back riveting. you get a lot of practice on the rudder skins.
still up in the air over the 3.5 length rivet or go with the 4 and have a nicer finished shop head on the double flush. I just don't like the dimple not full with the rivet flushed. Any comments?

Smilin' jack

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by Smilin' Jack

...
still up in the air over the 3.5 length rivet or go with the 4 and have a nicer finished shop head on the double flush. I just don't like the dimple not full with the rivet flushed. Any comments?

Smilin' jack

How are you dimpling the holes?

If using a C-frame, just give them one good whack. Don?t do the ?tap, tap, tap? thing.

Also, when you put the rivet in, regardless of how you are driving it, put some rivet tape over it, even if gravity will keep the rivet in place.

I found this makes a better rivet. I think it keeps the rivet from popping out on the first strike with the rivet gun. Also, don't push on the rivet with the bucking bar. Just touch the rivet with the bar and let the gun do all the work.

[drycreek]

Originally Posted by Smilin' Jack

then do the fancy back riveting. you get a lot of practice on the rudder skins.
still up in the air over the 3.5 length rivet or go with the 4 and have a nicer finished shop head on the double flush. I just don't like the dimple not full with the rivet flushed. Any comments?

For the trailing edge I believe the plans say not to fall into the trap of using longer rivets to fill the dimple because they will bend over. Having just finished the trailing edges on my right elevator and my rudder, I think it would be best to listen to Vans. While they won't quite fill the dimple they will still look just fine.