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  #1  
Old 02-21-2011, 11:58 AM
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Jkkinz Jkkinz is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kissimmee, Florida
Posts: 178
Default What type of adhesive to use

On my 7A I chose to used Sika-flex to glue the plastic bubble to my canopy frame. As a result I also chose to build my canopy skirt out of fiberglass/carbon fiber. All went well and was easier than I anticipated. I am now at the point that I need to permanently attach the skirt to the canopy.

Now to my question: To all those that have gone before, what did you use to "glue" the fiberglass skirt to the plastic along the upper sides and rear skirt. I have read that people have used the Sika-flex as well as proseal and also epoxy resin. Just need input as to what is the best route.
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2011, 04:47 PM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
Default I am using IPS Weld-On 45

from The Engineer Guy in Atlanta Ga. Not quite as strong as Weld-On 10 but not as messy either and fills gaps better. They have the best prices on Weld-On products. Let me know if you decide to go that route and don't buy the dispensing gun or mixing tips and save $121. I purchased two 400 ml cartridges for the -10. May even have some left over.
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2011, 12:25 AM
Stoo Stoo is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: LL10, Naperville, IL.
Posts: 68
Default

I glued my glass/carbon skirt on with Sika. No problems, went well.

Stewart
RV6, finishing
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  #4  
Old 02-22-2011, 08:03 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,558
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The canopy on my RV-8 Fastback is fastened to the fiberglass frame entirely with structural adhesive. I used Pro Set 176 resin and Pro Set 276 hardener from the Gougeon Brothers (West System) in Michigan. It is compatible with all West Systems epoxies and can be used in conjunction with wetted out cloth at the same time. It's what Scaled composites used to 'glue' spaceship one together with. I talked with the Gougeon Brothers tech staff first and it's what they recommended. It's a thickened product, like creamy peanut butter, and is very easy to work with. It gets hard, but never brittle, over a very wide temperature range. Working time is quite long too, so you can do your entire canopy at once without worrying about the product setting up. It will cure overnight, but takes a few days to completely finish harden. When cured, you can sand it just like other epoxies and put additional fiberglass layups over it if necessary. It has worked very well for me and I've used what's left for other jobs around the shop. It comes in a one quart can (resin), one pint (hardener) and is more than you need for your canopy. Mixed 2:1, the blue resin and the yellow hardener, makes a green epoxy when mixed completely.
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  #5  
Old 02-22-2011, 08:48 AM
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jjconstant jjconstant is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oakland CA
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I used hysol anywhere fiberglass or plexi was being bonded to aluminum -- canopy, cowl hinges etc. I made a flox out of it where there were gaps. This was on the advice of a lancair builder. I have no idea whether this is "better" than the other methods being suggested...

Jeremy Constant
RV7A 100hrs
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  #6  
Old 02-22-2011, 09:28 AM
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Jkkinz Jkkinz is offline
 
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Location: Kissimmee, Florida
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Default

Thanks guys, that gives me some options to look into.
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  #7  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:42 AM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Location: 8I3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoo View Post
I glued my glass/carbon skirt on with Sika. No problems, went well.

Stewart
RV6, finishing
Ditto on my rocket.
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  #8  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:52 AM
Lars Lars is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Davis, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketbob View Post
Ditto on my rocket.
Likewise, on my -7 slider. For "belt & suspenders" I used the per-plans pulled rivets thru the skirt into the square canopy frame tubes along the sides.
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