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01-28-2011, 10:48 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 21
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Yes, we have a couple options: you can use your existing lever, make the bends the way you want and screw through to my grip. Or, just ship it to me and I'll attach for you with nutplates attached for easy service/removal. The ones I sell online that are stand alone come with cold roll steel levers pre bent to the 45 degree attitude, 5/8th wide, 1/8th thick and plenty of length vs. yours, where the lever end wraps around the drum axle.
I like the way you have leaned your quadrant inboard, this is nice ergonomically, and as well, you have plenty of outboard room away from the cockpit side.
Call for more details if you want or check out the site and go to "Throttle Grips" for information/ordering/switches, etc.
Thanks for the interest -- Andy
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01-29-2011, 03:33 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: WA State
Posts: 192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboy
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Andy,
I like the looks of the "FatBoss1" setup! If this arrangement is used with one or more switches on the throttle grip how do you intend to route the switch wiring so that both the esthetics and functionality are optimized?
__________________
Will McClain
N954WM (Reserved)
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01-29-2011, 08:23 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 21
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Good question -- throttle quadrant grip: my preferred way to both sell/make this and what I am going to do in the RR is use a coil cord. Some guys (Steve Formhals) prefer to use a straight cord -- see the following link for a picture of his routing, but I also like the look of a coil cord. To each his own though.
http://www.fatboythrottles.com/throt...t_pictures.php
The key is to make sure it is anchored well from both the grip end as well as where it is going to grip/exit your console. McMaster/Carr sells several different cable grip/disconnects. If you are getting both a 4way and push button and want the coil cord, I will wire the switches at the cap, tie off the cord at the grip base and you can route/anchor from there.
The other link below is a shot of an RR build in FL -- he has a beautiful military/utility look going throughout his interior -- so the coil cord aesthetically is perfect here, but more importantly, it is designed to give/go with the throttle movement. There might not be enough outboard space in the RVs for this style grip, however, you can easily go forward or aft.
Flight Grip: A lot easier here, as I pass up to 7 24 awg white tefzel conductors straight through the base of the grip which in an adaptor that slides into the stick -- the wires go through the adaptor straight into the inside of the stick tube.
Lots of options here and I am eager to help -- this stuff is interesting to me: how to really fine tune the mechanical/functional areas of a cockpit so they not only work great, but look "planned" and aesthetically appropriate.
-- Andy
http://www.fatboythrottles.com/images/DSCF2400.JPG
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01-30-2011, 05:51 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: WA State
Posts: 192
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It appears that without redesigning the quadrant structure there is no way to run the switch wiring except externally. From an esthetic perspective it would sure be more appealing if the support arm of the throttle was designed with more mass (diameter) so that wiring could run inside of it in the same manner as a control stick. Perhaps due to fine products like yours switching controls will become more commonplace on throttle quadrants, and more esthetically pleasing designs will be developed. 
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Will McClain
N954WM (Reserved)
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01-31-2011, 05:36 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 21
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good point WM . . . I think any builder is on a never ending journey to tweak, twak and twok anything and everything having to do with an airplane. When you hit upon something that really nails something you've been at for a while, it sure is satisfying.
I'll keep you posted regarding wiring routes --
Andy
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01-31-2011, 07:51 PM
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VAF Moderator / Line Boy
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 12,256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiskeyMike
It appears that without redesigning the quadrant structure there is no way to run the switch wiring except externally. From an esthetic perspective it would sure be more appealing if the support arm of the throttle was designed with more mass (diameter) so that wiring could run inside of it in the same manner as a control stick. Perhaps due to fine products like yours switching controls will become more commonplace on throttle quadrants, and more esthetically pleasing designs will be developed. 
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What I am planning to do for the PTT on our throttle is to run a single wire down the inside of the grip then along the front of the lever "bar", with heat shrink around the bar to hold it there. I'll use the "bar" itself as the ground. PTT is just grounding a wire so this should make a virtually invisible wire. Won't work for a more complex set of wiring, of course, but for PTT alone, well....I'll let you know!
Paul
__________________
Paul F. Dye
Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
http://Ironflight.com
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01-31-2011, 10:10 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: WA State
Posts: 192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight
What I am planning to do for the PTT on our throttle is to run a single wire down the inside of the grip then along the front of the lever "bar", with heat shrink around the bar to hold it there. I'll use the "bar" itself as the ground. PTT is just grounding a wire so this should make a virtually invisible wire. Won't work for a more complex set of wiring, of course, but for PTT alone, well....I'll let you know! 
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Sounds like a nice neat way to address the problem. I assume that the tolerances are adequate to ad the shrink wrap without adversely affecting the action of the throttle movement.
Andy, are the tolerances on the FatBoss1 sufficient to use Paul's approach without affecting that smoooooth action?
__________________
Will McClain
N954WM (Reserved)
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01-31-2011, 10:30 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Salmon Arm, BC
Posts: 933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight
run a single wire down the inside of the grip then along the front of the lever "bar", with heat shrink around the bar to hold it there.
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A little finessing with a die grinder could put a groove deep enough in the edge of the lever to hide the wire. A bit of filler and you wouldn't know it was there.
__________________
Mark Olson
1987 RV-4 Sold
2003 Super Decathlon - Sold
F1 EVO Rocket, first flight May 31/14
First in line for the Sonex JSX-2T kit
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01-31-2011, 11:02 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 54
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You could also wire up using flexible circuit board tape or ribbon cable as used in computers etc, route this down the shaft, heatshrink over and then join a curly cord or straight cord out of sight further down near the axis of rotation.
Just a thought....
Last edited by Dragonfly : 01-31-2011 at 11:09 PM.
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02-01-2011, 06:33 AM
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VAF Moderator / Line Boy
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 12,256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfly
You could also wire up using flexible circuit board tape or ribbon cable as used in computers etc, route this down the shaft, heatshrink over and then join a curly cord or straight cord out of sight further down near the axis of rotation.
Just a thought....
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Oh, I LIKE that idea!
__________________
Paul F. Dye
Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
http://Ironflight.com
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