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12-02-2010, 10:42 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 433
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How did you route the wires for your heated seats?
Hi Folks,
I'm in the process of wiring up the heated seats from Classic Aero and I need a sanity check because things just don't seem right and I'm out of ideas.
I am thinking of putting a snap-bushing outboard and behind the seats (just in front of the rear spar bulkhead) for the wiring harnesses that go to the seats themselves. The bushing will be sized to prevent the harness from falling through.
For the Off/Low/High switch, I am thinking of putting it outboard of the seats and 14" or so in front of the above mentioned snap-bushing. I'd like the switch to be more visible, but without a much longer wiring run, I just don't think that is possible.
Before I go drillin' holes, I'd like to know of those of you in -6, -7, and -9's that have heated seats, where/how did you route the wire harnesses? Where did you put the Off/Low/High switch? How do you like your present setup?
Thank you,
__________________
/\/elson
RV-7A Tip-Up
NW Austin, TX
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12-03-2010, 12:05 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Breda, The Netherlands
Posts: 42
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heated seats
Hi David,
I'm also wiring my seats right now, and trying to find a waterjet company for my panel.
I cut off the connector to route the big wires through the main spar, they fit excactly together in the most outboard holes with a coax cable for the transponder on one side, and one for the radio on the other side. I was trying to use a rubber grommet, but had to go with a snap bushing.
The switches are located on either side of the AFS4500's. Have to give credits to my girlfriend for the panel design!
More pics on http://www.hobopagina.nl/RV7a/RVfinishing5.html Sorry, in Dutch, but google translate usually works well.
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12-03-2010, 04:43 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dothan, Alabama
Posts: 1,487
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I put the HI/Low switches under the seat pan, with the relays, never to be operated. I left them in the HI position. Routed wires through the spar, up to the panel and I have two ten amp breaker switches.
If you want seat heat, you have it, all of it. If it gets too hot, turn it off.
__________________
Alton DeWeese
N526RV RV7A Tip Up, IO360 180 W/Hartzel BA prop.
Flying ~950 hours since Aug 2010
N4IDH
Construction Log
?The secret of getting ahead is getting started. The secret of getting started is breaking your complex overwhelming tasks into small manageable tasks, and then starting on the first one.?
?Mark Twain
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12-03-2010, 07:35 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Posts: 858
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How I Did It
I put my wiring over the spar with the switches in the panel. After about 100 hours the pilot side stopped working. It turns out the wiring isn't really up to aviation standards. I ended up redoing the "Y" with a cold connectors instead of blobs of solder, and covering the joints with overlapping heat shrink.
Here you can see the switches on the panel:
I like having the high-low switch capability, my son says that the low setting is "hot" and the high setting is "fry"
 Nice to have the heat in the seats, makes all the difference in the winter.
Hans
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12-04-2010, 08:29 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 433
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Thanks for the feedback and pics, guys!
The wiring of the seats is somewhat of an afterthought, unfortunately. Reviewing the panel, which is already cut and power coated, I just couldn't find a nice place for the switches. On top of that, for whatever personel reasons, I'm hesitant to run the necessary wiring bundles to the panel.
Another location I thought about was the front deck just aft of the vents. I don't see an easy and convenient way (w/o going the long way around) of getting the wiring there, however. This morning, I did go out and measured the current requirements of the switch itself and I got 2 mA (very very modest). This opens the possibility of running a much smaller bundle - definitely something to think about.
__________________
/\/elson
RV-7A Tip-Up
NW Austin, TX
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12-05-2010, 08:24 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,351
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I have ran a single wire thru the tunnel and center section between the two seats that supplies power for both sides. My Heated seat switches are installed on the bracket that covers the center section just forward of the flap mount. This way, I have the shortest distance for the big wire that is part of the heated seat and the switches are not taking room from the high value space of the panel. It resembles much like a car.
If you like I have pic of it and can e-mail it as I don't know how to paste pix here. You are going to love the heated seat, we hardly ever have turn our heater on, just on the low settings keeps us plenty warm.
__________________
Mehrdad
N825SM RV7A - IO360M1B - SOLD
N825MS RV14A - IO390 - Flying
Dues paid
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12-06-2010, 07:01 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 433
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Hi Mehrdad,
Although I already put the wiring and switches in place yesterday, I'd still like to see your pics. My email should be in my public profile.
Thank you,
__________________
/\/elson
RV-7A Tip-Up
NW Austin, TX
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12-07-2010, 09:16 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 433
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To close this thread out, this is how I ended up doing the wiring for the heated seats. More details are here.
Thanks again for those who responded.
__________________
/\/elson
RV-7A Tip-Up
NW Austin, TX
Last edited by David_Nelson : 07-05-2012 at 03:11 AM.
Reason: Updated img url.
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