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10-26-2010, 07:13 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 182
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Great looking panel! I agree - balanced, clean, and functional.
Although there is not much there in terms of number of things, I know that from my many hours of using panel planner software that there was probably a whole bunch of thought that went into it.
Looking forward to your impressions of flying behind it.
__________________
Scott
Happy to be a 2012 and 2013 VAF supporter
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10-26-2010, 08:24 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 2,473
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This is an example of a slider, but we've done some tippers as well...I just don't have a picture handy. Anyway, it's an example of what can be done within the bounds of an RV-7/9 panel with Skyview's.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
Cheers,
Stein
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10-26-2010, 09:47 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Wellington, CO
Posts: 33
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Switches
Quote:
Originally Posted by flybye
Very clean lines and symmetry. The VP-50 relieves the need for switches which can be a challenge in designing a layout. What are the switches you've used under the left hand EFIS?
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From right to left: Flaps (larger, nearest the throttle), Boost Pump (w/LED so I don't forget it), and (2) for canopy latch. The red button is an interlock to activate the canopy latch switch. There's one other switch over by the key for G3 ignition.
I think I remember reading Stein's recommendation to place the EFIS(s) as high as possible.. did that. As I get older, screen size does matter  so I had to have the 10". I wanted redundancy.. symmetry reinforces that. I wanted fewer things on the panel and the VP really helped. I can't wait to see if I can actually fly behind it!
__________________
-Russ
KGXY
RV-9A, Tip-up, Titan 320, Catto 3-blade, Flying!
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10-26-2010, 02:49 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Snohomish, Washington
Posts: 699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russd
....(2) for canopy latch. The red button is an interlock to activate the canopy latch switch.
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Now you done went let the cat out of the bag!
I will let you know how it works in a couple of weeks 
__________________
Don Jones
Technical Support Manager
Dynon Avionics
CFI-IA, AGI, IGI
RV9-A
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11-30-2010, 09:42 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 214
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Hi Russ, I don't know if it's my computer but....
Quote:
Originally Posted by russd
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All I see is Xs in place of your pic. I would really like to see your panel. I too have thought about placing two 10" Dynons. Can I get some pics sent to me.
Best.
E.
__________________
Deconstruct for reconstruction (9A)
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12-01-2010, 01:17 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Wellington, CO
Posts: 33
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Nothing wrong with your computer...
__________________
-Russ
KGXY
RV-9A, Tip-up, Titan 320, Catto 3-blade, Flying!
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12-01-2010, 01:22 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Very nice!
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12-01-2010, 02:12 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 214
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Awsome Russ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by russd
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Mine is a TI too. Can you tell a little more specifically what you had to move and omit for this to fit. Further, would you have had to eliminate the jetison stuff if you didn't need as much hardware between the Dynons?
Best,
E.
__________________
Deconstruct for reconstruction (9A)
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12-01-2010, 08:46 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Wellington, CO
Posts: 33
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Thanks..
Thanks Brian, I've been watching you guys blaze the way.
Evans, I'm sure you could make room for the canopy jetison handle and mechanism. Especially, if you went with the Dynon transponder and a different radio/electrical system. I wanted the Vertical Power now and room to swap out the SL-60 for a GNS-430W some day.
Removing the canopy without the standard jetison stuff will be kind of a pain, but no more so than doing anything else up there. I kept the area forward of the sub-panel clean enough I can get to the hinge bolts. I hope not to have the canopy off enough to regret the decision though.
I drew a straight line across the ribs and cut them off even with the sub-panel. If you look closely, you'll see a red shim at the bottom of the stubby rib. I confess I didn't take into account that the sub-panel "bends" at the bottom when I did that  . I moved each rib inboard and to the opposite side of the radio stack to allow room for the nuts attaching the radio frames. That way I could minimize the space between the radios and the Skyviews.
Scrap angle was riveted to the cut end of the rib for attaching to the sub-panel. Plate nuts in the sub-panel and in the riblets makes them removable. The flange of the radio stack is sandwiched between the panel and riblets. I can remove the panel by taking out 10 screws; the radio stack stays in place. Another six screws and the radio stack can be removed as a unit.
Not sure if any of that makes sense. If not, shoot me a PM and I'll see if I can 'splain it better.
__________________
-Russ
KGXY
RV-9A, Tip-up, Titan 320, Catto 3-blade, Flying!
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12-02-2010, 10:51 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 214
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Thanks Russ...
I will study your response against your pics. I am very happy to be able to see a twin screen system up and functional prior to me giving it a go. Looks like it will definitely a go with some modifications.
Much appreciated and hope to catch up to you soon.
Best,
E.
__________________
Deconstruct for reconstruction (9A)
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