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09-29-2010, 12:46 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 174
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Radiant heaters are the way to go in a shop in my opinion. They work by heating surfaces, not the air using infrared heat. Sort of like the way the sun warms up the runway before the grass. So it makes your skin feel warm even if the air temperature is a little cooler.
I use this one in my house:
http://www.northerntool.com/images/p.../173951_lg.jpg
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09-29-2010, 01:07 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 2,861
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Arnie,
Unfortunately, that is not an option. My furnace is in the basement and would require serious work to duct out to the garage which in reality is a temp workshop. Once the plane moves to the airport, the garage will revert to being just a garage so I don't want to spend any more time and effort than is absolutely necessary to keep myself from freezing.
I've been checking out Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace (all of which are nearby) and the 3 burner radiant heater attached to a 20# propane tank looks like a winner for what I need.
Thanks for all the suggestions!
__________________
Todd "I drink and know things" Stovall
PP ASEL-IA
RV-10 N728TT - Flying!
WAR EAGLE!
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09-29-2010, 01:29 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auburntsts
I've been checking out Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace (all of which are nearby) and the 3 burner radiant heater attached to a 20# propane tank looks like a winner for what I need.
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BTW, Are you guys aware that Home Depot and Lowe's offer a 10% discount on everything to veterans. Just take along a copy of your DD Form 214.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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09-29-2010, 01:37 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 2,861
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Yes I am, and you don't a 214, just your mil ID (CAC for AD and Blue DD Form 2 for us retired pukes), at least at my local Lowes.
__________________
Todd "I drink and know things" Stovall
PP ASEL-IA
RV-10 N728TT - Flying!
WAR EAGLE!
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09-29-2010, 02:48 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 2,182
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Most propane radiant heaters made these days burn the fuel pretty completely, producing little CO, but if your garage is not very "drafty" then a CO monitor to go along with the heater might be a worthwhile investment too.
We didn't have to worry about that in the old metal hangars due to plenty of flow-thru ventilation even with all the doors shut 
__________________
Neal Howard
Airplaneless once again...
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09-30-2010, 06:05 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Posts: 202
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anti propane heat
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHines
I'd recommend a propane torpedo heater. Puts out a lot of heat quickly for a cold day, burns a lot cleaner than kerosene. Can use the tank you already have for your gas grill.
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I did this for a few years, until I built the garagemahal, which is insulated better than my house.
Propane heaters seem to dump a lot of water vapour into the air, too.
I didn't like that much, nor the source of ignition.
For my old garage, spot heating on me while I worked was all that was affordable, until I insulated. No need to pay to heat the outside faster than you have to. I did find that in the colder weather, I occasionally needed to heat up the work pieces and tools a bit in front of the heater as well, to be comfortable.
__________________
Howard McKay VAF 573
RV-8A, empennage/wings
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09-30-2010, 06:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Posts: 202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaCharlieBravo
Hi Todd
My furnace is in my garage and I just cut a 14x6 opening and installed a register with a adj. damper into my base can. Before I head out into the garage I just punch up my thermostat in the house up a few degrees, open the register and I can work out there in a tee shirt when it is 30 outside. My outside wall is insulated with R-19. My garage door is R-9.2 Made for a very comfortable working environment.
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Is this allowed under the building codes and your house insurance?
I don't think it's allowed here - fear of mixing auto fumes with house air, and flame path I think it was, but I haven't looked at it in a long time.
__________________
Howard McKay VAF 573
RV-8A, empennage/wings
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09-30-2010, 06:35 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,218
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I used a belt and suspenders approach. Most of the time a 1500 watt electric heater was sufficent. On colder days, I'd just come in, fire up the radiant propane heater (15,000 BTU, as I remember), AND the electric heater. Once the space was warm, I could turn off the propane heater and the shop would stay plenty warm most evenings.
I found that below a certain temp in the shop, I lost dexterity in my fingers, so heat was important.
If you can, insulate the ceiling of the space and seal the space as much as you can. Its a garage, so it will leak air, but do what you can.
__________________
Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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10-01-2010, 11:56 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lodi, Ca
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv8eh
Is this allowed under the building codes and your house insurance?
I don't think it's allowed here - fear of mixing auto fumes with house air, and flame path I think it was, but I haven't looked at it in a long time.
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No, it's not allowed here. That's why there is sealed ducting installed. You are entirely correct about the flame path of the fumes introduced to the living space. That's also why there is a total fire wall required between the garage and the living space as well.
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10-01-2010, 12:58 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Stuck in Lodi CA
Posts: 310
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Two things that helped me with warming the garage -
Insulated garage doors - made a big difference in both winter and summer
Infrared electric patio heater - got one at Costco a couple of years ago. You can adjust the tilt and swivel to point it at your work area.
 
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